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I just saw an aluminum body valve on ebay that Omar is selling. Has anyone used this valve as of yet. The price is excellent but! This valve if worthwhile will put a crimp on some of the mpre expensive 3ways out there.
 
Location: So Florida | Registered: 31 August 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Location: Kirkland | Registered: 10 January 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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This message has been edited. Last edited by: Omar,
 
Location: Kirkland | Registered: 10 January 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I just got some switches from omar, but mine appears to be wired backwards of this. Omar, what is the correct wiring? On the photo above you show 12V on the LED and ground on the resistor. When I do that the solenoid pulls but the LED doesn't come on (it will blink on when i pull power off, due to the back EMF, I assume). If I apply 12V to the resistor and then ground the LED then I get both solenoid and LED.


My daily driver is a bicycle
 
Location: St Louis, traveling | Registered: 25 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I have edited the picture to show the correct wiring to get the red light to stay on when you switch over to the WVO tank.

Thank you, Dan!

The red light is a "new, improved" option on the valve.
 
Location: Kirkland | Registered: 10 January 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Great, that clears up my confusion!


My daily driver is a bicycle
 
Location: St Louis, traveling | Registered: 25 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I tried some valves just like that. They flow really well, I like the design. The only problem I had was that the spring/magnet were a bit too light to seal it well, anything over like 10"of vacuum and they leaked by when testing them on the bench (most of the time you're probably running under 10" anyway but still). It takes alot of force to effectively seal a large orifice like that. I tried stretching out/shimming the spring and added a GC 3port coil to it and it worked much better (but then I had to loose the cool LED indicators). I do not know about Omar's valves though, the ones I had were from China and this is a few years back, but they looked the same. I'll have to try these out again
Didn't Plant Drive sell similar valves to these at one point?, I remember their's had larger magnets?


300TD
Samurai
Veggen
WVO shop heat
 
Location: Randolph, VT | Registered: 30 October 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Very interesting, I took it apart and I see how I could shim the spring (or replace it) in case that's necessary. By replacing the coil, you mean you replaced the entire lower section? It appears to be sealed...

I will have a vacuum gauge next to the supply switch so I can monitor if there's a draw through the "closed" side when I'm in diesel mode. We'll see....

BTW you can add an LED to any 12V electronic component, just go from 12V-->resistor-->LED-->ground, making sure the LED has its flat face (cathode) on the ground side.... if it doesn't light up, flip it around. A resistor in the range of 1k to 10k ohms will be suitable, lower values make the light brighter.


My daily driver is a bicycle
 
Location: St Louis, traveling | Registered: 25 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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When I changed the coil I simply removed the entire coil and replaced it with a different one, it was pretty much a direct replacement with the GC coil I had. If you shim it w/out changing the coil you will throw off the balance.
See how it works first, it'll probably be fine, I just wanted to mention what I found with a very similar valve. Let us know how they work for you.


300TD
Samurai
Veggen
WVO shop heat
 
Location: Randolph, VT | Registered: 30 October 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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we have also have 24 volt in stock
Omar
 
Location: Kirkland | Registered: 10 January 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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