does anyone out there run biodiesel thru their HE? like to read about some road test data about that subject...
Omar

quote:

Originally posted by Omar:
does anyone out there run biodiesel thru their HE? like to read about some road test data about that subject...
Omar

Yes, I do.

My FPHE is past my switch so it gets SVO and biodiesel. Right now I am in the process of using the B33 blend which is left in my stock tank, then I will fill it with B100 for the summer (and for the first time!).

I don't think I'll have much info to offer on this though because the only time biodiesel is going through a hot FPHE is when I'm shutting down for a minute.

I have been heating (dual tube homemade HE) all fuel going to the IP in the "Fatmobile" for around 2 years now, and in "Elizabeth" (10 plate Nickel Brazed Kaori HE) for around 3 months with no problems, but my start fuel is a 50% Veg/Bio blend.
I am taking temperature readings each weekend of the fuel temperatures at locations in my fuel system (of Elizabeth) usiong a 4 channel data logging thermometer. - Nice Toy.

I use brass NPT to hose barb fittings for my FPHE installations and canned foam for the jackets. The hose barb fittings really make installation much neater and simple..and I can "cast" a plate with bolts into the foam I cover the FPHE with. These protruding bolts allow me to easily install the FPHE securely..and the complete encasement of the FPHE dramatically increases its efficiency.

It is not pretty though.
Fleet clients don't care...but I am going to try a new method that should result in a much cleaner looking foam case/mount.

BTW...I have a new shipment of 16 plate Kaoris FPHE in and have 10 extra to spare. $85 w/priority mail shipping. I also have spare brass NPT to hose barb adaptors (5/8" and 3/8") on hand for forum members that need them.

A few of you guys out there going to home depot and getting pex hoes barbs how is that working out? any problems the price is right $5 ...

I talked with the Kaoris engineers last week they have an isolated HE unit they are sending me to test.
they also have a unit that has a port on the back for a temp sensor.

We have one 20 plate left at $85

always have 16 and 26 plate in stock in nickel and copper
good luck everyone Omar
www.omarsales

quote:

We have one 20 plate left at $85

What size ports? Female or Male?

I can't say enough about the 20 plate i bought. I was able to flip the switch tonight with only the FPHE heating the oil (I was priming the lines). You can feel the cold oil going in one port and hot (too hot to hold comfortably) oil coming out the other port. I have the heat exchangers under the truck hooked up in a parallel loop, but had used 3/8 " id hose for the coolant and that just proved to be too narrow of diameter. The HE's under the truck and the filter in the back don't get hot at all. I used 3/4" hose on the FPHE and hooked it in series to my engine as a last heat boost before oil injection and it works great. I actually bought a 26 plate one that i'll install under the truck and convert all the 3/8" hose to 3/4" hose.

quote:

can't say enough about the 20 plate i bought. I was able to flip the switch tonight with only the FPHE heating the oil (I was priming the lines).

can you post some photo's of you set up?
Omar
www.omarsales.com

has anyone used PEX fittings from home depo ? any problems?
thanks O

is any one running a 26 plate in a Mercedes out there? any photo's & road test data you could post? Omar
www.omarsales.com

quote:

Originally posted by danalinscott:
Yes..in nearly all cases I advocate this configuration. No reason that a fliter should cool the VO and IMO a filter shoudl be the last components the oil sees before the IP.

quote:

Originally posted by dloomis:
Hi gang - very informative thread.

One thing I was unable to surmise: does anyone suggest placing a heated filter *after* the FPHE as cheap insurance? I worry something will corrode or fall off the HE, causing havoc in my IP. But conversly, I worry that placing the filter last would negate any heat gain created by the HE.

Dan

Dana, If this final filter is also his heated filter, wouldn't that be quite a bit of oil that needs to be heated on initial startup, likely to make the initial switchover longer than if he used a small glass (bubble sight) filter after the fphe? Do you think the glass filter would provide enough small-micron ability to outweigh the benefits of a 2-5 micron filter before the IP?

quote:

Dana, If this final filter is also his heated filter, wouldn't that be quite a bit of oil that needs to be heated on initial startup, likely to make the initial switchover longer than if he used a small glass (bubble sight) filter after the fphe? Do you think the glass filter would provide enough small-micron ability to outweigh the benefits of a 2-5 micron filter before the IP?

Heating the VO filter enough is actually quite easy in most cases. The engine needs to warm up enough to prevent upper ring land coking anyway...and this is usually the limiting element in switchover time. But only a "small channel must be liquified in the filter if it is after a FPHE since the hot VO flowing from it will quickly enlarge that small channel through the "pudding" in the filter. I don't think a small glass or disposable filter will heat to the poit of flowing any quicker than a larger one.

I consider most small filters to be "chunk catchers" and not small micron capable.

http://www.kaori-taiwan.com/ecompa36.htm

I dont know if a lot of you guys have seen this but it shows the FPHE's should be mounted vertically. I have mine horizontal... time to switch it up!

If your coolant source has enough velocity you can also mount them sideways ...with the VO ports on the upper side and coolant ports on the lower side.

And mounting with the ports facing up also seems to work OK.

Essentially you just want to mount it so air does not accumulate in it on either the VO or coolant "side".

a few guys have mounted the HE on it's back
no air problems yet... anyone have a problem with air??? Omar
www.omarsales.com

Maybe someone might want to email Kaori and find out for sure. I'm switching out my 16 for my new 30 tomorrow so I will go Kaori's way just to play it safe. I will also "T" in my Cyberdyne temp gauge on the VO outlet to see what kind of temps I am getting. It will also definitly be lower than the rest of the cooling system so air will not be an issue. I will mount it to the left battery on my 12V Cummins...

Zack

http://oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12791

WVO burning in a 7.3 Ford
Here is an install of a 26 plate HE in a 7.3 Ford by
DeepRoots


"Mission accomplished. I honestly thought it would have taken more parts. 155 degrees is the fairly constant temp prior to the filter and IP".

'89 F250 7.3 IDI 164,000miles
c6 3.55gears 2wd
long bed, extended cab
ATS non-wastegated turbo and 3inch exhaust

quote:

Originally posted by Omar:
is any one running a 26 plate in a Mercedes out there? any photo's & road test data you could post? Omar
www.omarsales.com

I am, but don't have any data. I can get a pic easy enough, but have not installed a temp guage.

quote:

I can get a pic easy enough

can you post a few photo's
Omar
www.omarsales.com

Kaori 16 fphe install on a 190D 2.5turbo:










Installed Dana's injector line heaters:



Time to install the he approx 30min (if you have everything, hoses, clamps ect.). I didn't secure the he as it is resting in the ?chasis? and held firm by the water hoses.

Installing the injector line heaters approx 1hr. Removing turbo crossover pipe, removing the injector lines, cleaning injector lines with nail polisher, installing the heaters and wraping them with the silicone tape, installing back the injector lines, plugging everything (using a 30amps relay).

Make sure you don't have any air bubbles traped under the line heaters or silicone tape. I had it and on the first try it "exploded", luckily only damaging the silicone wraping.

Thanks to Dana for the parts! Thanks to all the SVO/WVO community for sharing your experience .