BIODIESEL & SVO DISCUSSION FORUMS



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Posted
burned a bunch of bio-d and vo-d mix so far.

about to convert my f250 (mech 7.3)
figuring on adding a third tank in the bed.
system will consist of:
1. third tank w/ heated pickup
2. HOH
3. FPHE
4. electric heater
5. FSV

I know the truck inside out, but have a few WVO component and routing questions.

1. FSV, Since I'm using a third tank, I really need a 6port, tho greasecar offers only a 3port. I'd prefer to use thiers as it seems to be the most robust in the heat. Any thoughts/solutions? (preferably not buying two 3ports)

2. tapping into the coolant lines. Pretty obvious the heater core lines seem most available. I've heard of many people using t's in each line. This doesn't make much sense to me (plumbing backround). Why not just add two elbows in the same line? It wouldn't seem like it should hinder flow that badly.

any other thoughts/comments are appreciated, I've read a good bit on this forum, if anyone has any IHI 7.3 thread specic topics, link me up.

thanks
Drew
 
Location: Willacoochee Georgia | Registered: 17 May 2005Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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2008 Sponsor
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Welcome to the forum Drew.

Your plan sounds good. I started with a black housing Pollak 6 port fuel selector valve but heard quite a few comments about failure due to heat. I switched over to a pair of Greasecar 3 port solenoids just to be safe.

I agree on the heater core T plumbing. Most folks do this but it seems to me the flow down the WVO line would be much weaker as a liquid flows to the point of least resistance. On my 2002 Powerstroke, I took the advice of someone on this forum to grab the coolant right off the head.

On my truck, the heater core coolant is supplied from a port on the passenger side head. As these engines use the same cylinder head on each side (just swapped around) this port was available on the driver's side, back near the steering shaft. This provides a nice flow of coolant without having to share it with another device like a heater core.

I tied the coolant back in on the heater core return line that goes to the water pump. In theory, being on the suction side of the water pump it should pull the coolant through the WVO heating loop even better.

I recently upgrade to 3/4" heater hose to compensate for the increased distances to and from the WVO tank. I, too, use a HOH in addition to my own in-tank heat exchanger. In just a few miles these hoses are too hot to leave your hand on them.

Todd


2002 F-250, 7.3l PSD on grease since 2004
 
Location: El Dorado, Ark | Registered: 04 July 2004Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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thanks man, answered them all.
no need to welcome me, I've been here for years, never bothered registering for awhile.

anyway, good advise on the 3/4inch hose, yeah my truck runs pretty warm too.
Two 3port valves eh? well gotta do whatcha gotta do. Maybe for cost reasons I'll leave out the electric heater for the moment and see how it goes. I can always add it later this fall.

I figure if I can run up to 75% VO- 25% D unheated here in south Ga, it can't be that hard to add enough heat to run nearly 100%.

Main thing I'm going to make sure I can put the FSV REAL close to the lift pump for faster purging.

Thanks
Drew
 
Location: Willacoochee Georgia | Registered: 17 May 2005Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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