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I ordered one to give it a try. Got it today. Just want to make sure I read enough to modify this puppy. I posted a question on this a while ago but I cannot find it when I do a search.
1. Drill a hole through the red plunger for a hose.
2. epoxy resin the inside of the rotor making sure to seal all the holes.
3. Drill 2 to 3 1/8" holes on the top of the rotor to help keep it from vibrating.
4. heat the oil to 120-140.

A couple of questions?
1. do you epoxy the outside of the rotor as well as the inside?
2. I read somewhere on this site that someone has suspended it to stop the vibration. Is this a better option? Do you still have to drill holes in the top of the rotor if you suspend it?
 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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See:
Acme juicer thread

1. Yes.
2. Might be slightly better but doesn't solve balance issues. Drilling holes makes it better either way since it holds less VO.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 +87 300TD wagon Running on 2 tank WVO, 81 Mercedes 300D on V80/D20 blend
Low fossil house- 100% solar/wind power, 90% solar heated.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: 31 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by SunWizard:
See:
Acme juicer thread

1. Yes.
2. Might be slightly better but doesn't solve balance issues. Drilling holes makes it better either way since it holds less VO.


Thanks for the info. I have read some of that thread already. I haven't had time to read it all though. It's a good informative read but it is so long. Just wanted to make sure I didn't miss any key points.
 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hi Simone. I'm glad to see more interest in the Acme. I've been using the hanging method for these past 1400 gals with good results.

1. Be careful drilling the hole, the plastic cracks easily. I just wedge the feed hose in with a shop towel.
2.Standard polyester resin ( Bondo brand ) is cheaper,less toxic and easier to work with.
3.I haven't had to drill holes, but did experiment with one basket.Measure carefully if you do drill. I think not drilling allows for a thicker layer of oil, allowing a longer run time before cleaning and possibly allows for increased flow. I run mine up to 9 gals/hr depending on estimated water content.
4.I heat my oil to 160F. Most important is to be consistant, ie. heat each batch to the same temp, as different temps will have different flow rates. I heat mine in a 3 gal pot and pour it into a 5 gal cooler bungied to the paint tray on top of my 6' ladder.
5. Yes, apply resin to the outside also. I used a 1" china brush to paint a very thin layer of resin on the inside and kept slowly rotating the bowl vertically until it started to set up. Don't let the resin flow onto the bottom of the bowl as oil will eventually work its way under it. I used a utility knife to score the bottom edge of the side, then scraped the resin off the bottom back to the score line.
6.Hanging the Acme might not solve imbalance problems but it does do something to absorb the vibration and allow it to run smoothly. I was still having occassional minute vibration that caused the lid to rattle at times and eventually cracked one of the upright support arms. I cut them off and used three bungie cords to hold down the lid. This dramaticly smoothed and quieted things.
I'll try to post a picture below.
Good luck and thanks for flying Acme.
Mike
 
Registered: 08 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Here's my hanging Acme after 20,000 miles on the road. Sorry its such a bad picture. I was trying to downsize it to get it under 50k.

Imagejuicer3.jpg (42 Kb, 84 downloads)
 
Registered: 08 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by bio-me:
Hi Simone. I'm glad to see more interest in the Acme. I've been using the hanging method for these past 1400 gals with good results.

1. Be careful drilling the hole, the plastic cracks easily. I just wedge the feed hose in with a shop towel.
2.Standard polyester resin ( Bondo brand ) is cheaper,less toxic and easier to work with.
3.I haven't had to drill holes, but did experiment with one basket.Measure carefully if you do drill. I think not drilling allows for a thicker layer of oil, allowing a longer run time before cleaning and possibly allows for increased flow. I run mine up to 9 gals/hr depending on estimated water content.
4.I heat my oil to 160F. Most important is to be consistant, ie. heat each batch to the same temp, as different temps will have different flow rates. I heat mine in a 3 gal pot and pour it into a 5 gal cooler bungied to the paint tray on top of my 6' ladder.
5. Yes, apply resin to the outside also. I used a 1" china brush to paint a very thin layer of resin on the inside and kept slowly rotating the bowl vertically until it started to set up. Don't let the resin flow onto the bottom of the bowl as oil will eventually work its way under it. I used a utility knife to score the bottom edge of the side, then scraped the resin off the bottom back to the score line.
6.Hanging the Acme might not solve imbalance problems but it does do something to absorb the vibration and allow it to run smoothly. I was still having occassional minute vibration that caused the lid to rattle at times and eventually cracked one of the upright support arms. I cut them off and used three bungie cords to hold down the lid. This dramaticly smoothed and quieted things.
I'll try to post a picture below.
Good luck and thanks for flying Acme.
Mike


Thanks so much for the info. Since I only have a small amount of oil coming in at this point I am leary about spending alot of money on a centrifuge system. If I can get the juicer to work then I could start with that & work my way up to a centrifuge when I find more oil sources.
 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Well I have finally had some time to work on this project. I have epoxied the basket on both sides. I tried running it without drilling any holes in the top but I had vibration issues. So I drilled two 1/8" holes in the top & vibration is gone as long as I don't have too much flow going in.

I have tried two 1 gallon samples so far. My first sample had been prefiltered to 10 microns & was very dark in color. I heated the oil up to 160 & did four passes. Flow rate I could not tell you for sure. After 4 passes I checked for sludge buildup & there was none. Did not appear to have cleaned the oil at all.
So I thought since the oil I used was filtered pretty well already I would try some un filtered directly from a cubie.

Second 1 gallon sample was directly from a cubie that had been settling for approx. two weeks. I heated to 160 again & did 4 passes. No sludge buildup again. Does not appear to be doing any cleaning.

Just to note I'm sure my oil was not at a consistent temperature because I am heating it in a pot on my barbeque. By the time I have finished a pass in the juicer the temp is down to approx. 120. I have been heating it back up to 160 before each pass.

I am a bit discouraged that I have not seen any cleaning action so far but am not giving up yet. I'm not sure where to go from here though. Do I need to use a larger amount then 1 gallon? More passes? Let the oil spin in the juicer longer before pouring more in?

Comments/ suggestions is greatly appriciated.
 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Its very hard to accurately control the flow rate while pouring it by hand. Its possible you are flushing the dirt out with small bursts of oil. One of the drawbacks to drilling the rim holes is you decrease the capacity of the Acme to hold dirt and water in the oil volume held by centrifugal force on the sides of the basket.
I have found there is a limit to how much water can be tolerated in the oil without slowing the rate to less than 3 gals/hr. My flow rate varies from 4-8gph.
Even after 25 gals of dark unfiltered oil, I only get up to 1/8" of dirt built up.
When I first started processing, 2000 gals ago, I used settled oil and didn't get any dirt either. I don't think you'd get much after prefiltering to 10 mic, especially with only one gal.
You shouldn't have to do more than one pass.
Flow control is very important, as is consistant heating.
After I heat my oil in a 3 gal pot,I turn the burner down and set my hot pan test skillet on it.
I use a meat thermometer and then pour it into a 5 gal cooler that has a valve to control the flow.
I have a Y valve in the output hose from the juicer so that I can punch a digital egg timer and measure flow rate into a measuring cup.
The cup oil then goes into my hot pan for water testing.
I would skip the 10 mic prefilter and do it instead after the Acme.
I've been very happy with my hanging setup.
Mike
 
Registered: 08 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Thanks for the info bio-me. Perhaps I am expecting too much.

The oil I am using is quite dark in color. I was expecting the juicer to take the dark color out of the oil. That's what I thought the sludge would be from. I expected that one gallon would not be enough so I figured if I did more then one pass I would start to see a color change in the oil & a buildup in the basket. Maybe I am worring too much about the color of the oil. Does it matter how dark it is?I have seen & read how clean the oil gets by running it through a dieselcraft centrifuge that I was expecting the juicer to do the same thing.

It did pass the hotpan test. I did not see any bubbles.

I am planning on setting up my jucier to be able to control flow & temp better but I wanted to see some results before spending any more time & money.
 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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simone0414
Your writings are exactly what I wrote, when I first started using the Juicer. It takes several gallons of oil to start SEEING gunk. If you settled and filtered before cleaning in the Juicer, you have minimized the amount of crud.

I have not cleaned out the basket for over 100 gallons. It has about a 1/16" of crud inside the basket.

I need to, at least, wipe it out with a dry rag, to absorb what little water is in there.

I run oil 1 time, at about 2½ gallons per hour. I hang a 5 gallon bucket over the Juicer, with a clear plastic tube running into a small funnel into the juicer. I use a spring clamp to control the flow, then glance over at it, while I'm building Furniture, in the shop.

Then I run it through a whole house filter, with 5 micron cartridge. So far, no change of cartridge necessary.

Mix 4 gallons of oil with 1 gallon of Kerosene. Works well in Costa Rica.
 
Location: Costa Rica | Registered: 01 October 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Thanks Deadheader. Your info makes me feel better about my results. I thought I was doing something wrong. Looks like I need to get set up better to control flow & temp & start running more oil.
 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Well I have run approx. 5 gallons. I checked the basket & there was quite a sludge buildup. I would say approx. 1/8" thick. This was what came out of already pretty clean oil that had been filtered to 10 microns. The juicer ran really well overall. A bit of vibration at the start but after that it ran great. Overall I am very pleased.

I have not added heat to the oil yet. What temp should I be shooting for?
 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Good to hear you got it working. 100-120F makes it filter quicker.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 +87 300TD wagon Running on 2 tank WVO, 81 Mercedes 300D on V80/D20 blend
Low fossil house- 100% solar/wind power, 90% solar heated.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: 31 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Congrats. Now you need to get it re-filtered to 5 microns and see if anything else comes out of the oil. Smile
 
Location: Costa Rica | Registered: 01 October 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Fla._Deadheader:
Congrats. Now you need to get it re-filtered to 5 microns and see if anything else comes out of the oil. Smile


Yes I plan on doing that. I am going to setup my 5 micron bag filter to filter as the oil comes out of the juicer.
 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by SunWizard:
Good to hear you got it working. 100-120F makes it filter quicker.


Will this temp allow for dewatering as well?

Also I was going to try heating the oil by wrapping the line from my holding tank above the juicer with either heat tape for water pipes or ice melter wire for roofs. The line is approx 18" long & I would wrap the whole line. Do you think this will get the oil hot enough? I was going to heat the entire batch of oil on a hot plate but that seems like it would take too much energy. I thought heating the oil as it runs throught the line would be more efficent & keep the temperature more even.
 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by simone0414:
quote:
Originally posted by SunWizard:
Good to hear you got it working. 100-120F makes it filter quicker.
Will this temp allow for dewatering as well?

Yes, the hotter the better for both up to 160F.
quote:

Also I was going to try heating the oil by wrapping the line from my holding tank above the juicer with either heat tape for water pipes or ice melter wire for roofs. The line is approx 18" long & I would wrap the whole line. Do you think this will get the oil hot enough?

No, I tried that, pictured on my initial post about the juicer several years ago, and its not enough. A water heater element inline like I used on the dieselcraft centrifuge would be the best option.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 +87 300TD wagon Running on 2 tank WVO, 81 Mercedes 300D on V80/D20 blend
Low fossil house- 100% solar/wind power, 90% solar heated.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: 31 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Well I have run approx. 20 gallons heated to 160 & all is well. The more I get used to the juicer the less vibration I have. I have my 5 micron bag filter setup under the spout. The filter does not seem to be catching anything so far. Appears the juicer is doing its job very well. The oil I have run so far has been from different buckets from different resturants. Some had a water in the oil. I have done a hotpan test on all of them & so far I have not seen any bubbles.

One question on the hotpan test. How long do you wait after the smear starts to smoke? Do you pour the oil in right away or wait for it to get smoking really good. I have read up how to do the test & watched it being done on u-tube so I'm pretty sure I am doing it right. I have also read you can get false readings if not done correctly. I'm just a bit worried that since I have not seem any bubbles at all in all my tests that I may be getting false readings. Or is the juicer just that good at removing water?
 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I haven't been waiting more than a few seconds, but I don't know what others do. I think the Acme is great for removing water as long as you don't push the rate. I get a very quick response from slowing down the flow if I find any bubbles.
I have ocassionally seen some very fine small bubbles around the edgees that I think are just volitle (sp?) cleaning products.
Mike
 
Registered: 08 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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. I'm just a bit worried that since I have not seem any bubbles at all in all my tests that I may be getting false readings.

Do the HPT on a sample before AND after you run it through whatever you use for dewatering.
 
Location: gone | Registered: 03 May 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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