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Dueschlanders

What’s that ?
I envy your superb knowledge on a foreign language but have again no idea what you are talking about.
I don't care if you pull a joke or make a joke.
But leave me alone.
To your own standards it is OFF TOPIC but seemingly not for you.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: BMW Fan,

Here's some notes on a process not yet finished. First off all the engine compartment hose is going to be braided stainless $ 2.8/ft. My heater has evolved to be part of the secondary filter. Because of the 4 port design of the racor marine line (2 in/2 out) it works extremely well to integrate my existing flush line T (a weak part of the greasecar system). To give the just of the design before I post pics later: 1 in/out set gets heated with GP fairly simply in a 3/8 brass block T reduced with bushings down to 1/8 pipe. The other line set carries the flush back through the filter and will fill it with D2 on shut down. This will ideally circumvent some of the notorious greasecar cold VO buildup by forcing the hot VO out of the racor filter for the cooler D2. I have not made a decision on the actual filter element yet, it's the same size as my fleeguard in D but the center bore is larger. A 10 micron element will start but if that doesn't work well I will go with either a 30 or find a solid metal element that will fit.

1/8 pipe FPT will thread a 10mm GP just fine (in inch decimals it's .39: GP to .4 for the pipe).

Direct contact with the VO is not necessarily the objective to achieve proper temp in this setup (this comes after cooking some plugs in a test with high temp bearing grease). So my design now is to use a solid plug above the GP positioned upside down into the T. The T stands vertical with the horizontal port attached directly into the filter in/out port on both sides of the VO flow lines. Bottom line if you turn the GP upside down all the heat rises effectively so you can put a plug in front of it that stops the fuel flow but transfers the heat. Ideally with the heat rising from both sides up into the filter itself which will be insulated it will hold the heat and keep the VO up to temp at least 160.

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Bottom line if you turn the GP upside down all the heat rises effectively so you can put a plug in front of it that stops the fuel flow but transfers the heat. Ideally with the heat rising from both sides up into the filter itself which will be insulated it will hold the heat and keep the VO up to temp at least 160.

If I understand you correct, then the GP is not in direct contact with metal but surrounded by air ?
If that's the case your GP will burn out fast. If I'm wrong let me know !

BMW Fan

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If that's the case your GP will burn out fast. If I'm wrong let me know

There ARE GPs that will work indefintely in open air. A search for "heavy duty glow plug" might turn up a link to them.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: danalinscott,

Well this is an issue I have been wrestling with, either going with HD plugs or filling the air gap. The high temp bearing grease (veggie cellulose) was meant to be a sealer around the plug but apparently it won't work, it burned anyway. Seeing that dissuaded me from putting VO right up against the tips, Scott is right about the candle to bonfire ration there (from Omar's thread). So ideally there would be something illiquid to act as a filler around the glow plug. If the GP tip runs through a 1/8 pipe nipple it does surround it by majority but not securely enough like a head to hold out air contamination. It's better to run it through a 3/8 nipple anyway because it holds more heat that way.

Perhaps the solution is to drill tap the 5mm GP width into a solid 3/8 pipe rod. How snug does the fit have to be to defeat the air?

Overall it's just the fact that the filter head comprises enough mass that no doubt the GP will be more effective passively transferring the heat. Just as the pics Klaus posted above show the ambient heating in a 45W GP is much better than the direct heating.

This picture was given to me / used as a negative example.
...and no, this are not my fingers

BMW Fan

GK.jpg (44 KB, 28 downloads)

No I had enough of an idea with the standard to go with them. A wrap of copper wire and HD foil to provide enough resistance and also shield the VO from the direct contact, something like the way a cigarette lighter works. There's no question - the plugs will burn HT bearing grease - they will burn oil the same. Foil tape has a high temp of 176F and on contact the plug no doubt exceeds that so I need some sort of high temp foil wrapping around a copper wire coil perhaps. Even HD foil for cooking will burn eventually so it's not the best choice. Any ideas?

It's worth mentioning also that, in consideration of all the kind replies and the best heat value I have decided to go before the main VO filter with this heater design and forgo the second additional filter. I still like the idea of a proper 4 way interchange at the point of flush with a filter involved but for 1 thing my filter was just too small to really handle the job. And effectively the main filter becomes the second filter in this way as well so it's worthy.

Fill the hole with solder (allow room for the GP) and insert the GP while still hot and liquid. Sure it will solidify when not running, but when the solder melts again, the liquid will transfer heat better than a solid. Much like the sodium filled exhaust valves. Liqiud sodium splashing around in the hollow stem cools the valve. HTH

Definitely gave that some thought, more like filling around the plug with lead or solder, problem is the glow plug would probably build up enough heat to melt it and that could clog up a filter big time.

I went with my simple idea of 18g copper wire wrapped around the tip of the plug double layered and slightly greased with HT bearing grease, then covered that copper roll with HD foil. That roll just fits into the 3/8 nipple and comes right to the edge of flow from underneath. A small amount of oil can flow around the foil but it won't touch the plug itself and that will hopefully keep it from burning. That would be a good addition to a very functional low cost heater. Amazon.com has my plugs with the 10mm thread fitting 1/8 pipe and check out the price, that's 4x cheaper than NAPA.

Sorry for the crap quality but here she is, just imagine 2 thermostats positioned above each GP as they're on the way, this 1 came from a microwave but IDK what it's temp is. The flow goes from right to left and oil enters from a split line teeing around my primer pump on the right and flows to the filter toward the left which allows the top fuel barb to connect back behind the primer pump and allow for flushing to the tank. The glow plug heats the incoming and the outgoing to the filter. The actual position of the assembly mounted to the chassis for ground will be directly below the VO filter.

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Originally posted by muzak:
Definitely gave that some thought, more like filling around the plug with lead or solder, problem is the glow plug would probably build up enough heat to melt it and that could clog up a filter big time.

Yeah, but I meant for the kind of GP heater where the GP does not come in contact with the VO. Sorry I wasn't clear.