Congrats Gerry! It seems that mild steel can be fine. I would guess that what Dana has stated about water, etc. in the oil could be the problem.
I am anal only to the point where my wallet can take it. So I believe I will try the steel tank and a coating if I can find one that is assured of working. That said, the coating can't break the bank either! If it gets that bad, I'll just do aluminum.

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and Red Kote can't be shipped to Canuckistan

LOLOLOL Sorry about that. But I will post what I find.

After further inquiry, I found that the company will for $100.00 slice off the big filler and weld a patch in it's place and will put what ever kinds of ports I need, all at additional cost. I have to admit I was so I was so put off at the idea of paying more for the modifications I need then the original cost of the tank I quickly became dis-enamored of the idea. I'm working on accepting the idea that apparently a tank is going to cost me as much as all the other components combined but I haven't quite gotten there yet.

Any suggestions for a good cheese for this whine?

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Originally posted by danalinscott:

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Can I get away with hanging it upside down, filler cap on the bottom and putting the end of the arctic fox in the well that would be created by the filler cap using it as a sump?

I have no idea if that is possible. The jpg is not clear enough to tell what size the filler cap is. It may be large enough to add a smaller more effective aluminum coolant heated pickup. Email me for more info on that if you are interested.

Diesel in Seattle $3.69 a gallon, on fill-up in my truck $92.00

One fill-up in my bus $553.00

How much was that tank again?

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Originally posted by danalinscott:
I like aluminum and poly tanks. But avoiding mild steel tanks due to the fear of VO polymeization in them is an over-reaction IMO. If you can easily afford an aluminum tank use one. If not consider poly tanks. They come in a LOT of sizes and shapes. (A list of many vendors of poly tanks is available at: )http://www.websitetoolbox.com/tool/post/voconversionbasics/vpost?id=1900098

And don't be discouraged if you can't find a tank that exactly fits your needs with the perfect fittings. You CAN buy a blank tank and either have fittings instaled to your specs at a reasonable cost..or drill the holes and add your own. There are fittings avaialbe that do nto require the equipmnt and skill required to weld plastic. For more inforamation on fabricating VO tanks look at

Ummmm, HDPE tanks can only have efittings added by plastic welding, most producers will install any fittings you like for a few dollars each, there is no need to butch up a good tank when the vendors will install what you like for less than a cheeseburger. Miled steel tank shave been found to accellerate polymerization by most users, FN74, Brian Miller, etc.

I like the links to that other website though, it is almost like a forum but there only seems to be one poster. Is it a private forum with one member? Can others post there? I hear the moderator just deletes everything others post, is that true???

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I like the links to that other website though, it is almost like a forum but there only seems to be one poster. Is it a private forum with one member? Can others post there? I hear the moderator just deletes everything others post, is that true???

I am one of 218 member posters and have never been "deleted" or moderated, so I would say, you have been misinformed.

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Ummmm, HDPE tanks can only have efittings added by plastic welding

Actually there are several methods to add fittings other than welding. I am currently on a weeklong phase one fleet conversion (mechanic training) and the workdays run to ovver 14 hours. If anyone is interested in more info on this I will try to provide it when timer permits.

The conversion basics site is intended as an information archive...though it does have the capacity for individuals to post if they wish.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Shaun,

I just noticed that "journeytoforever' lists POR15 as a suitable coating to withstand biodiesel inside the processors:

http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_supply.html#rust

I emailed to ask if they are using standard POR15, or the POR15 Tank Sealer

I used the front stock tank in my 1994 F250 for a while and had polymerization issues which after about 2-3 so years (100% WVO), resulted in rapid filter clogging and possible IP damage issues. I have changed to a plastic tank for WVO. I recommend using aluminum or plastic tanks for WVO . I wonder what it would look like if I had been using WVO /Rug/ or diesel blend instead of 100% WVO ?

BTW - Direct fit poly tanks are sold by J.C. Whitney ( made by www.mtscompany.com ). As stated earlier , avoid copper and don't use any zinc containing components -
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/15960555...361055602#6361055602


Some tank coatings may be OK with WVO but here is one case where POR15 did not work -

http://www.frybrid.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5566

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rkpatt,

What water content (PPM) was in your veggie, RK?

The pre-filtered and dewatered oil was hot pan tested be before in was pump into the tank . However, the vehicle sits for weeks at a time with only a partial tank of WVO . I periodically drained a about 1/2 gal form a bung mounted of on the bottom and never saw any free water but I suspect that it did pick up some moisture from condensation ("rewatered "). Maybe a desiccant hydraulic tank breather aka tnk vent dryer, would have helped - http://www.agmcontainer.com/agm_main...n.htm?utm_id=9 , http://198.170.245.162/catalogs/SentryCata.pdf . Maybe install one of those or a DIY version on tank vent line or WVO storage tank to address condensation issues.

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Originally posted by welder:
What water content (PPM) was in your veggie, RK?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rkpatt,

air may have something to do with it. Air driers may not really provide much difference. Maybe just provide an access port for regular cleaning? what you think?

well i saw a little in this thread about fuel tanks. I did not read the whole thread...

but i coated my steel tank on my 86 chevy with a PPG epoxy industrial floor coating that i had left over from my garage. I coated the tank over 3 months ago and it working great.

I cant find my thread about doing it......wheres the search at?

Oh....i found chevy side tanks at jcwhitney now.....wish i would have seen that.....i wouldnt have screwed around cleaning then coating my steel one.

https://www.greenroadenergy.com/images/vegetableoilasfuel.pdf

updated link

might want to read
vegetable oil as fuel
by Joe Beatty

good luck
Omar
www.omarsales.com

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Another interesting issue is that when VO polymerized it can forum a skin on mild steel but not on aluminum, so not only does iot take twice as long for the oil to polymerize, but it can not form a skin. The Beatty report on the oxidative polymerization of veg oil is a contentious report with those who sell plans to make components from copper as it showed what the medical and vegetable oil industries already knew, that VO polymerized rapidly in the presence of copper.

I'm not trying to take sides in the steel versus aluminum debate, but I can't help wondering whether Brains' advice about adding a cleaning access port to mild steel tanks would actually be better than using aluminum tanks.

My reason for considering this is that although it takes aluminum tanks "twice as long for the oil to polymerize" than oil in mild steel vessels, I'm wondering whether it's better to have a tank metal that makes skin, rather than a metal tank that makes filter plugging/free floating vegpoly particles?

Assuming it took about an hour, would an annual or semi-annual steel tank scraping be more money efficient than changing plugged fuel filters when they eventually do get plugged with small particles of vegpoly?

Are vegpoly particles bobbing around in a 1/2 full mild steel tank more likely to stay suspended or more likely to adhere to the vegpoly caked on the steel tank walls?

If they are more likely to cling to the walls, then maybe it's better to let them form chicken skin and then srape the goop off every so often.

Again, I'm not chosing sides, I'm only wondering out loud.

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I wonder what it would look like if I had been using WVO /Rug/ or diesel blend instead of 100% WVO ?

In my processing shed the pure VO exposed to air will polymerize, the VO-D1 blend does not, and the new VO-D1-jetB blend does not either. jetB is a kero-naphtha mix.

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In my processing shed the pure VO exposed to air will polymerize, the VO-D1 blend does not

What ratio in the blend?