I just added an article to my blog. How to drive a gear pump with an electric motor or drill.

Just a couple quick questions, what gear pump are you using? How does the cordless drill perform when attached to this thing? Does it bog and die quickly, or does it last? Thanks.

I am quite certain he is referring to a small block chevy oil pump. I have one & it works really good. I initally ran it off my drill & it worked fine but it was a pain since I had to hold the drill the whole time. I have since mated it to a sump pump motor & it works great.

You can whip up a bracket to hold the pump and make the drill hands free.
The other answers are one my blog. I have a good cordless drill and it pumps about 20 gals before the battery dies. I expect it to improve as it warms up.

Pretty cool.
What kind of gpm are you getting with a small electric motor?
Skimmed the article, 'guess it needs to sit in a containment for
oil seepage. How bad does it leak?

I'd like to try it, I have a 1 hp Dayton jet pump motor. 1700~ RPM I think.
Is that too fast?

Very inventive, Thanks for sharing it.
Brian

Thanks for the nice write-up to go with the other SBC ( small block Chevy oil pump - Melling M55 ) pump info on your blog .

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/ev...91066562/m/606107331

The barrel is more for the hoses than the pump. It leaks almost nothing pumping wvo as long as there is no pressure build up (pushing through a filter or undersized hose). It pump diesel from a hho tank through a filter. It drips more as the filter clogs. At 60psi. it's a fast drip. I keep a coffee can or rag under it.

1HP is plenty, just make sure your hose is nice and big. I don't know the gpm. It took 1 min. to fill a five gal jug in December using my cordless dewalt drill and 3/4" ID hoses. That's the only timed run I have done. These things are so impressive that I retired my sucker tanks.

Simple wvo pump to drill bracket

Q. can the pump you sell be mounted directly to a standard 110v motor, 1/3hp or stronger is needed in order to circulate/mix the veg/methoxide for making biodiesel.

A. Yes it can.

Q. the ports are tapped to accept 3/4" npt?

A.There is enough room on a high volume pump to drill and tap 3/4NPT, but I only have standard pumps with 1/2 NPT. The HV pumps cost 2X as much as a standard pump. I feel the standard work well enough.

Q.i am interested if you provide the coupler...

A.No, but I have directions on my blog. It is built with common tools and parts.

Q.when connected to a standard 1/3hp-3/4hp motor with the standard specs of 3750 rpm , will the pump generate high volume?

A. The faster you spin it, the more it moves. It is a positive displacement pump. Don't choke it with under sized plumbing. Use 3/4 ID at a min.

Q. I need very high volume as this will be used for my mixer to make BD. after looking at the picture it apears that the nipples you attached are too short.

A. You can use NPT fittings to make the pump fit your needs.

Q. like i mentioned earlier i want to attach this gear pump to my electric motor and the shaft on the motor is 1/2" and it has a flat surface, can you make a union/coupler for me as well.

A. My coupler will work with your motor as long as you are willing to drill a 1/8" hole through the shaft. The couplers are easy to build from common parts. I cann't see charging someone for it, so I don't sell them.

quote:

Originally posted by NJ_M715:


I just added an article to my blog. How to drive a gear pump with an electric motor or drill.

its the first time that i visited your blog..and i really like it..hope they feature a fan clutch repair article soon..

This message has been edited. Last edited by: kurtdaniel,

To join an SBC pump to a motor with a shaft, use 050 Lovejoy couplers.
You will need a 3/4 for the pump but will have to shim it as it is an oddball size. I use a couple of thicknesses of coke can which has held up perfectly.



The couplers can be bought with individual jaws so you just get the other side to match the size of the shaft on the motor you want to drive it with. There is a spider that goes in between and I just use the standard one which has proved completely unaffected by oil over the 18 months I have had it.

If you want to drive the pump from a drill (and I think that is a hard and noisy way of going about things) just use the original drive shaft that goes with the pump. It has the correct fitting for the pump end and a plain shaft on the other end you can chuck up in your drill.



The original ports on the pump are way too small for maximum flow. I drill and grind out 1" holes in the sides of the pump right in front of the gears and weld in 1" elbows. I have used 1" hose but due I think to the convolutions in the hose I use, 1.5" makes a big difference more to the load on the motor than the flow rate although there is some improvement there as well. Over a 10M ( 30Ft. run, the motor will work really hard on 1" hose but on 1.5 it passes far more oil before it warms up nearly as much.

see my other post for a video of my lovejoy coupling in effect
After blowing up a shady coupler I made, this became the solution.
After running it, I have realized this is DEFINITELY the way to go.
It's safer, easier to align with the pump, and runs infinitely quieter.
This isn't somewhere to cut corners, and lovejoys are cheap.
Reduces vibration to nearly nothing.
Sure it might not matter on a mover pump, but on a constant duty centrifuge type setup - it's a must have.

LOVEJOYS -
MOTOR side .625 L-075
SBC pump side 12MM L-075 (required barely sanding down the driveshaft to fit, simply turn it as you do for a uniform reduction)

Anyone who uses this information is very welcome!

quote:

Originally posted by futant:
see my other post for a video of my lovejoy coupling in effect
After blowing up a shady coupler I made, this became the solution.
After running it, I have realized this is DEFINITELY the way to go.
It's safer, easier to align with the pump, and runs infinitely quieter.
This isn't somewhere to cut corners, and lovejoys are cheap.
Reduces vibration to nearly nothing.
Sure it might not matter on a mover pump, but on a constant duty centrifuge type setup - it's a must have.

LOVEJOYS -
MOTOR side .625 L-075
SBC pump side 12MM L-075 (required barely sanding down the driveshaft to fit, simply turn it as you do for a uniform reduction)

Anyone who uses this information is very welcome!

ordering some more lovejoys for my transfer pumps!
needed my own info!
My order info is this I think below (check your own keyway exactly with a micrometer)
obviously you don't need a keyway for the SBC gear pump side but 12mm is as close as you can get to a perfect fit. As i mentioned - only a minor amount of uniform sanding was needed.
5/8" is the 3/4hp motor side I use to drive it.
Runs quiet, and should last forever!

LOV 68514444153
L075 HUB 12MM 4X1.8MM KW L075 $4.05

LOV 68514428352
L075 HUB N/LBL 5/8 3/16X3/32 L075 $4.05

LOV L075 SPIDER SOX
L075 LOVEJOY SOX SPIDER (SOFTEST) $4.24

what is your source @ those prices? northern tool was more than 2x that.

They must be touching you up.
Even in Oz where everything is more exy than the US, I still buy the couplings under $20 a set.

You can find motor couplings (aka shaft couplings , jaw couplings , spider shaft couplings ) for reasonable prices at www.mcmaster.com , www.grainger.com , and
http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm

I dont know why i didnt check w/ mcmaster earlier- I just ordered 2-1/2sets for half of what Northern wanted for one set. and it'll be here tommorow.