BIODIESEL & SVO DISCUSSION FORUMS






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Ok guys and gals...got a few questions.

1. How long does it usually take to warm up 20 or so gallons of wvo to 150°F? So that you can switch from diesel to wvo.

2. Let's say it's 40°F how many miles would you have to drive before you switch?

These questions go together but I'm curious. Been thinking about going wvo for some time. Have had good luck with bio but my neighbor is moving and taking bio production with him.

I don't drive very far to work 14 miles and 20 or so minutes to get there. Would it be worth converting?

Also thinking about moving closer to my wife's job so that would add 5-20 minutes drive time but the move wouldnt be for another 2-3 years. -- I definitely think that after the move a 2 tank conversion would be worth every penny...especially the farther we move.

I have oil connections now and don't want to lose them for a few years then try and get them back.

Any insight would be welcomed.


I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD and a 1994 Chevy k1500 6.5l TD (with mechanical injection pump).
Both vehicles have been proven to work well with finely filtered oil.
 
Registered: August 09, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Some things to think about:
What tack will you take to conversion? A kit or DIY? Major cost differences. With your relatively short commute, does it make sense? You can beef a system up to heat up fast, but at a cost, not an obscene cost but bells cost more. You don't need to heat the entire tank in order to switchover to oil, you need to heat it to a flowing temp, then heat it more along the way and then blast it with heat prior to injection. This can happen pretty efficiently and pretty fast with the proper installation. So its all doable, at what cost and for what value/payback, etc...
I converted when I was driving a ton, DIY system, ~$500. Now I hardly drive at all, but still do it in a smaller way for a friend and longer trips... but if I was faced with starting the project now, I would have to decide against it. I burn more d2 than wvo right now!But long trips are cheap and after averaging, I strive to drive at 1/2 the cost of diesel. My friend gives me 1/2 the price of diesel for the filtered WVO i produce for him. So still making out better than a gasser and I love the efficiency of my fuel sipping VW.
quote:
Originally posted by adoubu77:
Ok guys and gals...got a few questions.

1. How long does it usually take to warm up 20 or so gallons of wvo to 150°F? So that you can switch from diesel to wvo.

2. Let's say it's 40°F how many miles would you have to drive before you switch?

These questions go together but I'm curious. Been thinking about going wvo for some time. Have had good luck with bio but my neighbor is moving and taking bio production with him.

I don't drive very far to work 14 miles and 20 or so minutes to get there. Would it be worth converting?

Also thinking about moving closer to my wife's job so that would add 5-20 minutes drive time but the move wouldnt be for another 2-3 years. -- I definitely think that after the move a 2 tank conversion would be worth every penny...especially the farther we move.

I have oil connections now and don't want to lose them for a few years then try and get them back.

Any insight would be welcomed.


I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD and a 1994 Chevy k1500 6.5l TD (with mechanical injection pump).
Both vehicles have been proven to work well with finely filtered oil.


Merk
03 Jetta TDI 12 gal marine tank in trunk w/copper heat exchanger no intank connections, coolant heated copper coiled fuel filter, HIH, 10 plate FPHE & two 3 port wvodesign fuel valves. Timer/relay purge.
 
Location: Etna, NH | Registered: January 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Here is a link to my Jeep. Jeep CRD it has over 100k grease miles. Make sure you do the ORM and the EHM or something similar. My wife drives this and her old job as 60 miles each way every day and did that for two years now it is 9 miles and she is getting about 100 miles for every gallon of diesel purchased. Which at todays diesel prices is cheaper and easier than Bio-diesel. She use to get 150 to 200.

You would not need to have two tanks like mine and if you did you would not need a SS tank under the vehicle. I was doing testing.

I did not like the Mechanical 6.5 my self. It seemed like a lot of work. That is just my .02 cents.


Robert
In Fort Lauderdale running a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 2 veg tanks HOH 2 upgraded greasecar vavles 3/8 fuel line 5/8 heater line HOH Hose wrapped filter. Injector Line heater on the Common Rail. 2nd car 2005 Mercedes CDI, Raw Power fuel pump, 36 gallon veg tank in trunk coolant heated HOH, rubber hose wrapped fuel filter, FPHE, 3 greasecar valves, Common rail line heater.
 
Location: Ft Lauderdale, FL | Registered: June 01, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
posted December 05, 2014 10:14 AM
Ok guys and gals...got a few questions.

1. How long does it usually take to warm up 20 or so gallons of wvo to 150°F? So that you can switch from diesel to wvo.

By saying 20 gals , the VO is in the trunk's trunk. The idea of heating the VO in the tank should be secondary. The engine coolant temp should be the deciding factor in switching to VO. I'd suggest changing the coolant thermostat to a higher value. The sooner the coolant water reaches the operating temp, then it will be time to switch. Heat is the best friend to running VO. At the IP input, the VO might be 10 degrees cooler than the engine's operating temp. Warm VO will flow through the fuel lines much easier than cold VO. IMHO, warm VO makes the VO fuel pump last longer.

2. Let's say it's 40°F how many miles would you have to drive before you switch?


There are many factors that influence an answer to that question. My MB 300SDL will heat up to operating temp.within 4 miles. I changed the thermostat from 176F to 195F
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by adoubu77:
I don't drive very far to work 14 miles and 20 or so minutes to get there. Would it be worth converting?... I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD and a 1994 Chevy k1500 6.5l TD (with mechanical injection pump).


No, for two diesel vehicles It's much more cost effective to make biodiesel. The engines will last longer vs. running them on 100% "finely filtered oil" without a full 'diesel purge' conversion.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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A Jeep Liberty is actually an easy conversion. Two switching valves, a Tank, FPHE, Injection line heater(for the Common Rail), One good switch, Electric wire, PEX line, rubber hose, and some fittings. No high pressure or low pressure pumps needed.

If you already have an appleseed processor you are probably just looking for something easier and filling the veg tank is easy. The conversion can be done by anyone that can do a good titration it just requires a little time and effort the experimental stuff has already been done. Mine has 110k grease miles and is one of the better running Jeeps on Lost jeep website. I made biodiesel back in 2000 and it was awful. I used a bucket with a spinner on an electric motor, I am sure the appleseed process is much better but I filter 30 gallons of grease in less time than it takes to do a titration.


Robert
In Fort Lauderdale running a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 2 veg tanks HOH 2 upgraded greasecar vavles 3/8 fuel line 5/8 heater line HOH Hose wrapped filter. Injector Line heater on the Common Rail. 2nd car 2005 Mercedes CDI, Raw Power fuel pump, 36 gallon veg tank in trunk coolant heated HOH, rubber hose wrapped fuel filter, FPHE, 3 greasecar valves, Common rail line heater.
 
Location: Ft Lauderdale, FL | Registered: June 01, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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