Trying to set a dieselcraft centrifuge oc-20. I would like to buy the centrifuge only as I already have a motor. I need a gear pump though& am really unsure of what will work & will not. I saw this on ebay & was wondering if this pump would work.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName...IT&item=220272715693

a little light for 2 oc20s fine for one

Yes that would work.

Shipping costs??!!?? Ouch!

quote:

Originally posted by Pir8Darryl:
Shipping costs??!!?? Ouch!

I know. Shipping costs are absolutely crazy.

Thats probably because thats the canada ebay site, so its a shipping rate from the US to canada.

Yep Sun thats right. It would be 13.00 to ship to New Orleans La.

I bid out the min. on a working VW golf pump for less than that, search for Power Steering pumps on the US ebay. Just be aware that you may need a new fitting and hydro hose as mine had the hose chopped. I passed up good ones like vintage Impalas and the like figuring they ought to go to a good ride but the older ones are better so you don't have to deal with a serpentine belt.

quote:

Originally posted by muzak:
I bid out the min. on a working VW golf pump for less than that, search for Power Steering pumps on the US ebay. Just be aware that you may need a new fitting and hydro hose as mine had the hose chopped. I passed up good ones like vintage Impalas and the like figuring they ought to go to a good ride but the older ones are better so you don't have to deal with a serpentine belt.

I was going to go with a power sterring pump but I read that people had been having problems with the vanes sticking in them.

A mid 80s Honda /Acura PS pump is gear type pump . I pickup one up at a local Pullapart yerd for $15 to use with a Dieselcraft C-20 setup . If you look at the rear of the pump (gear housing) , it will look similar to taht the teel gear pump. ( BTW - Hat tip to Sunzward for all of his Dieselcraft info )

quote:

Originally posted by simone0414:

quote:

Originally posted by muzak:
I bid out the min. on a working VW golf pump for less than that, search for Power Steering pumps on the US ebay. Just be aware that you may need a new fitting and hydro hose as mine had the hose chopped. I passed up good ones like vintage Impalas and the like figuring they ought to go to a good ride but the older ones are better so you don't have to deal with a serpentine belt.

I was going to go with a power sterring pump but I read that people had been having problems with the vanes sticking in them.

quote:

I was going to go with a power sterring pump but I read that people had been having problems with the vanes sticking in them.

Prefiltering the WVO is clearly necessary before running through any pump to at least 100 um. I run mine through a bag filter down to 1 um first, then heated to a viscosity that's thinner than PS fluid so there's no problem. And as rkpatt mentions there are gear pumps in the foreign cars by the dozen on there.

I also use a mid-eighties honda/acura pump, and it works well. Paid 15 bucks and got the high pressure hose with it.

Will any power steering pump work?

Yes but most are vane pumps and the vanes can stick with poly VO even if you prefilter. So its best to find a gear pump, and the 80's acuras are the only PS pumps confirmed to all be gear pumps. Some hondas are but you have to know what you are looking for (the bulges of the 2 shafts in the housing) to tell if its a gear pump.

What about just running a little BD through occasionally?

That might work, but its so cheap and easy to find a gear pump it wouldn't be worth it.

I built a SBC oil pump for my OC-50 in a direct drive operation of a 3/4 hp motor.

I'm going to test within a week, if youre interested.
It would probably be way to much for a oc20, maybe even for the oc 50 so I added a 1/2" circuit before the 3/8 circuit that goes to the CF unit. I was afraid not enough would bypass through 3/8" valve that comes with my oc50, since someone posted that a SBC oil pump (modded ) puts out about 10gpm at 1500rpms. I need 2 gpm at 90psi, so I estimated about 4 gpm free flow .

quote:

Originally posted by futant:
I built a SBC oil pump for my OC-50 in a direct drive operation of a 3/4 hp motor.

I'm going to test within a week, if youre interested.
It would probably be way to much for a oc20, maybe even for the oc 50 so I added a 1/2" circuit before the 3/8 circuit that goes to the CF unit. I was afraid not enough would bypass through 3/8" valve that comes with my oc50, since someone posted that a SBC oil pump (modded ) puts out about 10gpm at 1500rpms. I need 2 gpm at 90psi, so I estimated about 4 gpm free flow .

Hi..I'm thinking about going with the sbc pump & 3/4hp motor to power 2 oc20's, please let me know your findings ie: gpm & psi @ which rpm's?....thank you..

I ran the sbc modified pump (3/8npt fittings + no pressure relief+ different holes)
with the 3/4 hp motor

It worked great basically , all except one thing.
The 3/4hp motor eventually overheated, twice actually I had to flip it off when I could hear it slow down.
Basically it wouldn't overheat in free flow, where I guess it was flowing at max rpm , close to 1725rpm.
But once I applied pressure to my oc-50, it would start to slow a bit then start heating up.
Mind you I rigged my setup a special way since I knew it would flow too much. Someone posted before that a sbc oil pump unrestricted at about 1700rpm would flow about 10gpm.
I estimate that was pretty accurate now with my 1/2" hosing i use.
I made two circuits. The main circuit is 1/2" with a 1/2" valve on the tee.
This applies pressure to the secondary 3/8"tee/ciruit on the centrifuge.
on this secondary circuit is how I applied pressure to the CF itself.
So with the OC-50 running at 80psi ~ , 190degree oil , there was still a good bit bypassing from BOTH circuits.
I estimate I have about twice the output I need from the SBC pump direct coupled 1:1 with my 3/4hp motor.
I ran the 3/4hp motor for a while without it overheating until I applied the CF load to it. Then the temp skyrocketed until the thermal protection kicked in (outside of motor hot enough to burn hand in seconds)

So I'm gonna order a 1500 watt light dimmer and reduce the motor to what speed i need exactly . I thought this approach had the benefit of a couple things :
1. no belts , and no worrying about the right pulley sizes. I can adjust the dimmer/potentiometer/rheostat to however much power I 'll need. I could add in a inline 100mesh filter later if I kill pumps, then adjust it a bit higher if it won't start overheating.
2. by using a bigger motor than i need, running at a lower load, I gain reliability. Plus I can turn the dimmer back up if I need to use it as a sucker to fill the drum with a strainer attached to the pickup. I might add, when I did that last- the motor gets very hot since the strainer keeps getting plugged while sucking.

Overall I rate my last test 99% successful. Only issues were predicted earlier, and accounted for with having a primary circuit 1/2". When I completely closed the primary circuit , and began to slowly close the secondary - you could tell that the adjustment on how much pressure to apply gets radical real quick. Heck with the primary closed alone, the CF was running at 20+psi already with the secondary wide open totally bypassing. I was just glad to not see the 3/8" drain back hose on the secondary blow right off!

BTW i'll post some pics of my rig when I get a chance.
It's a beautiful machine

2 4500watt (low watt) heater elements with bungs welded in a drum. Controlled by a dual water termostat, regulated at 190degrees (cut off plastic limiter that hits at 150degree)
220volt nearly 40 amps

1/2 welded sump on bottom of banged out drum

two 110v small fans mounted on top of removable lid, 3" hole for air output with plumber plug that tightens with a wing nut. (so can seal all assembly to keep smell out of garage)

3/4hp harbor freight motor , wired 110v 10.9amp

quicksteel ' dam walls' that help the sbc pump shaft drippage drain back to 3" hole

16" of 1 1/4" pipe with a 1 1/4 massive ball valve to catch output from CF . basically close valve when reducing pressure to CF. Then when stopped use the 1/4" ball valve I drilled into the 1 1/4" valve to drain water output.

sbc pump custom modified with a new design of my own (nothing amazing from what others have posted)

drum completely insulated 2 -3 layers aluminum radiant barrier.

everything serviceable and vertical on top of lid, so drum can be totally full with 50 gallons, yet sealed and lid can come off for cleaning sump. NO LEAKS

inline temperature gauge- mechanical, and liquid filled pressure guage that came with OC-50

estimated material cost with OC-50 = 800+ dollars.
Estimated time to construct = 20hours~
Estimated time to design = who knows , lost much time thinking of ways to improve it as I went along.
Poor welding skills and crappy mig wasted plenty of time too!