Anybody got any information on these Enviofuel valves? Are they a good Frybrid alternative?

http://enviofuel.com/index.php?page...hpshop&Itemid=5

I don't know Chrisf, but the six way looks to be a pollak. I need a pair of three ways myself but I don't want to wait for months to get them, hopefully someone who knows about these will respond.

Mike

Chris is asking about these: http://enviofuel.com/index.php?page=shop.product_detail...com_phpshop&Itemid=5

They're fine, I think - Enviofuels has a 3-way with larger fittings/ports for trucks.

Craig

I talked to chris goodwin last week and he said he had all parts in stock except some ford kit.

said that orders were being filled within a few days instead of weeks except for this one kit.

I'd like to find someone that has used these valves. I'll also contact them today to see what's up.

Yes, Frybrid has the best valves but you can't trust anything Goodwin has to say on shipping. If I can't get the valves to install in my truck then they are worthless to me.

I think this a not only innaccurate it is a cheap shot at Chris. Although the civility on this forum has dropped in the last few months it is not a lisence to post cheap shots. I can understand from your signature why you are unhappy with Frybrid...but this is not a liscense to post cheap shots either. Please use a bit more restraint in the future.

quote:

Originally posted by chrisf:
you can't trust anything Goodwin has to say on shipping.

Back to the valves, I just bought some Greasecar valves. They are nice quality, good feel and seem to be a good valve. The Enviovalve looks just like it. Not a complete copy, but very close. Greasecar valves are only $55 each, Enviovalves are $84.
This is not an attack, just an observation.

The limiting factor on larger engines seem to be internal orifice size. Is the info available on these to compare them using this as a start?

The "Achilles heel" of the remote fuel (solenoid) valves available from auto parts stores seems to be a lack of tolerance for heat and in some cases for vacuum or pressure in significant amounts.

Are the specs for these parameters available for any of the valves being discussed here?

http://www.hydraforce.com/Solenoid/Svsp3w.htm
you guys may want to check out these valves also I think Tom Yaz Has some for sale you may want to contact him:
SV08-33 and SV10-33 valves
are the ones to look at
got to go ... have to pick up mailers for the HE order ... should mail out end of the week O

quote:

Originally posted by danalinscott:
I think this a not only innaccurate it is a cheap shot at Chris. Although the civility on this forum has dropped in the last few months it is not a lisence to post cheap shots. I can understand from your signature why you are unhappy with Frybrid...but this is not a liscense to post cheap shots either. Please use a bit more restraint in the future.

quote:

Originally posted by chrisf:
you can't trust anything Goodwin has to say on shipping.

You're right Dana. I could have worded this differently. Something like "Based on my experience I can't trust...". Afterall things may have changed at Frybrid in the last 2 weeks (hmm). Since I try to treat people better than they treat me I'll stick to just stating facts about Frybrid.

Well... would you look at that! Omar those valves look VERY familiar. Good sleuthing! I'll contact Tom Yaz. Thank you Sir!

Just in case anyone wants to order these valves, I ordered some for a 5cyl benz. The ones I ordered were svo8-33-4t-12dl. They are good up to 200C which is 350F? and good for 3000, yes 3000 PSI. 12volt. $65 USD

you will find that the hydraforce series 8 (SV08-33) is basically the same as a frybrid valve. if you buy a series 8 hyraforce valve - make sure you order viton seals and you have a valve just like a fry valve.. I think you should be able to get the ports taped as NPT threads and not O ring boss.. The port eyes on the fry valve are not drilled out..

there is a new coil out for the hydraforce valves.. the coil found on a fry valve is not really water proof - but water ressist. the metal washer found on the top and bottom is the weak point.. if you are to use a solenoid on the lower frame rail are back in back under the car/truck - you will most likey have issues down the road if you find yourself around water/snow melt/etc a lot... The new coil is a E COIL that is 100% waterproof..

dana is right on - "The limiting factor on larger engines seem to be internal orifice size."...... meaning the inner port eye - and the holes on the valve shaft..

the smaller port eyes, the smaller valve shaft holes, and the fact that you can't get a manual over ride on the series 8 valves is why I will not use them.. even if I had a car and not truck - if I had the space I would use a series 10 valve.. you will find that you can get a series 10 valve (without) the manaul over ride (but with the e coil) for around $75.. if you wish the manaul override it will be around $90.. then all you need to do is drill out the port to .315 from .266

the series 8 valve and the frybrid valve both have a flow rate of approx 1 gpm at 18 PSI.. I know of 1 or 2 WVO users with a truck and a frybrid valve are are having issues with the pressure drop across the valve.. a series 10 (NOT the SSV10-33) with the ports inner eye drilled out should have a flow rate of around 2 gpm at 12.5 -/+ psi or less.. and a flow rate of 1 gpm at something like 5 psi... again (not the SV10-33 version of the SV08-33)!!

if you saw the diff in the valve shaft holes on a series 8 vrs. series 10 valves - it is like night and day.. once you see a series 10 with the ports drilled and the valve sahft holes = you will most likely wish this over a series 8 valve... (given you the space and a little time to wait for your valve)...

also - if you bomb you truck or have a high flow pump - the series 8 valve may be the weakest link...

Mistal - I think the correct order # for a series 8 valve would be (SV08-33 V 6T 12V ER).. you had 4T (6T for 3/8).. the ER is for the E coil and has dual 18G leads with the weatherpak connector.. if you don't use the weatherpak - you can cut the leads..

on the envirofuel valve - don't know how eazy to get a coil for it.. and if you had to change the coil you have take fuel lines off.. the hydraforce coil is eazy to get from anywhere in the USA and don't need to take off the fuel lines.. it is only $14.50 +/-...

!!! Now you tell me!

I will see if I can change my order in the morning, I ordered it at the end of the day today. I ordered the 4t because I figured I would be using 5/16 fuel lines and 4t is 7/16. I thought it would be easier to get a fitting if it was closer in size. I didn't think of getting vitreon seals, I'll see if I can change that too As for it being waterproof, I am not that concerned, it will be in the engine bay.

I appreciate any advice

thanks

Peter

for the record - I don't claim to know more then the next person.. I am just letting others know what I found when looking for solenoid valves.. I just started looking for a solenoid valve when I could not find what I wanted online..

omar - just to let you know on my valves I did not use the SV10-33.. I used the SV10-31 and modified it.. look at the flow graphs.. you will find (on paper) the default port on the SV08-33 is at 25 PSI and the SV10-31 is at 12 - 15 PSI..

Are you guys buying from the website or through a distributor ? - Thanks

u can't buy via the factory - lookup hydraforce and click on the distributors.. check them all out.. some less $$$ then others... if you really wish a series 10 drilled out email me..

Disel&coffee - how do you drill them out? Does the piston unscrew from the valve block? Is there an issue with overdrilling the valve seat near each port such that it leaks?

Has anyone tried the 6-port SV12-60?

I hate to ask but I am confused . Can some one please help me spec. out the part #s for the larger valve to use on my 1994 F250 7.3 and the smaller one my friend's 1983 300D Turbo. The WVO fuel lines are 3/8 from the tank - - Tahnks