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Poor pictures -- Yep, camcorder captures. I can't seem to get the white balance correct to keep them from washing out, last ones were interlace also as I forgot to deinterlace them. These aren't much better unfortunatly, gona have to get a digital still camera I guess, looks a lot better as video.
5 ounces of condensed oil -- Yes the oil was condensed from the vapor being swept out of the flash chamber. If this is allowed to float off into the air with the water steam it condensed on everything in site, seems to especially like greasing up my windshield. I did not use the same "T" outlet pipe as is in the earlier picture. I added a 4 ft length of downwardly pointing 1 1/4 inch conduet, see "conduit" picture 3 posts below) I have placed numbers on the attached poor quality deinterlaced picture, hopefully some discription will help, disregard the junk in the background, it is as organized as I get. 1 = the blue barrel is my filtering barrel, it is the supply for the wet oil. 2 = Hard to see but the silver thing is my prototype heating pipe, thermostat is to the left of the pipe. The heater pipe is wrapped in a couple inches of fiberglass insulation then covered with several layers of tinfoil. 3 = This is the small high-temp cintered brass in-line hydraulic filter (pictures of it earlier in this discussion). This has entirely ended the orifice plugging problem so far. This will eventualy need cleaning. Part of the test is to see how many cold starts I get before having to clean it. Seems the crud is baked oil flaking off the heater during warm-up. 4 = This is the newly added air input, I used a 1 inch pipe to allow the use of low pressure air at a low vollume. It's input is located just a bit above the internal splash plate. The idea is to pass an air flow across the flash area. The water-oil vapor is hot and wants to rise up in the flash tank. The outlet is on the opposite side of the tank and at the highest location, the vapor and added air rise up and flow out the outlet opening into some sort of condensing setup- yet to be deturmined. 5 = This is a small air pressure regulator to drop the compressed air down to just a slight flow at almost no pressure. This turned out to be a bit of a problem as the air flow would stop as the pressure in the compressor tank dropped. I had to set the regulator to flow more air than I would have liked to insure the flow did not stop. I intend to replace the compressed air with air from a small 4 inch muffin fan. The air will be prewarmed by passing it around the outside of the final vertical heater pipe, the threaded air inlet fitting on the flash tank will also serve to be the support for the final vertical heater pipe (see earlier pictures of the flash tank with proposed vertical heater pipe). 6 = This is the actual flash tank. I wrapped the tank in 3/8 inch closed cell plastic insulation, didn't have a choice about the blue color. Surpisingly the plastic did not melt. May be because the cross-flow of compressed air lowered the temp of oil collecting in the tank to between 170-185 deg f, depending if the heater was on or off. (wet input oil was about 100 deg f due to heating for filtering, outside temps were in the 40's f) 7 = this is the vapor outlet pipe. This is the first way I tried to condense the vapor. The tip of the pipe was placed first 1/4 inch then 2 inches below the surface of water in the cooking pot, didn't work. vapor bubbles simply quickly rose to the surface of the water without any detectable condensing taking place. The bubbles burst at the surface and released the oil-water vapor to rise up out of the pot and float away in the air. Vapor in/out fittings are both made from a 1 inch pipe coupling that was cut in half and shaped to fit the side of the tank then brazed over a clearance hole in the tank. 8 = this is a piece of 3/8 copper tubing carring the dry oil off to be collected. 9 = This is a piece of 3/8 copper tubing running from a drain valve at the bottom of the flash tank. overview-water_pot_setup_with_numbers.JPG (193 KB, 283 downloads) initial flash tank condensing test |
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This picture is just a bit closer view of the flash tank and the air inlet and outlet pipes.
closer_view-air_inlet.JPG (225 KB, 203 downloads) |
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This is a picture of bubbles rising through the water in the cooking pot, the vapor does not show up well, it sort of looks like density changes in the silver color of the sides of the pot. I tried a lot more water in the pot but it caused more pressure to be generated in the flash tank and caused the dry oil to rise up and run out the top of the vacuum-braker pipe just above the outlet shut-off ball valve. I also tried adding a cintered bronze air muffler to the end of the vapor outlet pipe in an attempt to brake the bubbles into much tinier bubbles, this also caused the internal pressure to increase and overflow the vacuum-braker pipe.
bubbles_in_pot.JPG (142 KB, 165 downloads) |
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This picture shows the 4 ft long downwardly pointing piece of conduit on the vapor outlet. This forces the vapor to float up along the top of the inside surface of the conduit insuring contact with the cold metal, water vapor still did not condense. The oil vapor did condense in the pipe and ever-so-slowly dripped out the bottom end. Took about 10 gallon of dewatering before any oil drops appeared at the end of the pipe. There was a continious flow of water steam rising from the conduet. (If you look close you can see dry oil dropping into the big funnel.)
setup_with_conduit_pipe_outlet.JPG (124 KB, 210 downloads) |
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Your wvo is fuel. Can you not burn some of it to heat the rest and carry on regardless? I just built a large shop burner and wish I had done it months ago.
mathematical elegance -- desired result achieved with minimal complication |
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Tim, once again thanks for the progress you have made for us all. I'm glad more people are reading the thread now it has been properly rated.
mathematical elegance -- desired result achieved with minimal complication |
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I started following this post last summer. It is wonderful to see it come through... Amazing work, Tim!
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i do like the way you did this post but i was thinking today isnt there a way to build the setup to save on the cost of electricity to heat everything?
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So, maybe I'm missing the boat, but wouldn't it be easier to just heat a 55 gallon drum full of oil much the same way a fryer does and wait for it to stop popping? Just leave the small bung open to vent pressure. Once your above about 275 if there's any water it'll be entertaining to listen to....and safe as long as you are protected from the splatter. In other words you're doing a really huge frying pan test. A small stream could be pumped if you have a concern of suspended water.
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Welcome to the forum Steve,
Boiling water out of a drum ov wvo is nearly impossible for several reasons. it has been discussed often on the forum previously. It is very wateful of energy..and tend to leave a lot of water in since the temp of the oil varies enough to allow water vaporized on the bottom to condensin while still in the oil before it escaped at the surface. And boiling tends to leave a LOT of suspended wate rwhich must be removed some other way. Mushc eassier to just use a more effective water removal method in the first place.
Dana दान danalinscott@yahoo.com http://vegoilconversions.netfirms.com/ VegOil Conversions by Dana Linscott- VO Conversion Consultation for large and small trucks, VO fuel related businesses, and co-generation(power/heat)projects, |
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Tim,
Any update on this project? heavily interested in mobile dewatering, Rob |
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Still a bit too cold to work outside, just doing paper ideas now. Will be trying a different steam condensing scheme eventualy and installing a permanent 1 or 2 heatpipe setup to hold the heating at or below the current 60 watts/sq inch to keep from burning the oil. Here is another discussion with a bit of info on ideas about heat density and using glowplugs to heat a mobile dewatering setup.
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Tim what would you say for or agains the idea of using a diesel vehicle injection pump as a way to get the oil into a fine mist in a Flas Evaporator. I have an extra IP and was thinking about driving it with an Electric Motor.
_________________________ If you believe you can't YOUR RIGHT; But equally so.... if you believe you can, YOUR RIGHT as well. |
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Injector pump -- Without thinking this over much yet, doesn't seem to fit the requirements to well. Pressures come in several thousand pound high pressure pulses rather than a steady 150 pounds pressure. I intend to try using an oil feed pump from a standard home furnace oil burner unit, these have internal pressure adjustments that can be set anywhere from 100 to 200 pounds output pressure. These are about the size of a baseball and the standard motor is usualy 1/6 HP, this motor also powers a blower so it should take even less to run just the pump. The standard 1750 rpm pump (higher speed allowed, could turn it with a 12 volt DC motor) will flow up to about 3 G/H and the 3500 rpm unit flows up to about 7 G/H. they are available with even much higher flow rates. These are available on ebay for usualy under $35.00. Suntec pump page is here.
I also want to try to change the pressure spring in one of these small pumps and see if it will make a reliable 5 to 15 pound pressure vegoil fuel lift pump. The flowrate table shown on the web page seems to indicate that even the 3 G/H pump will actualy flow up to 7-8 G/H ? |
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this is cool! just found it. my suggestion to control the pressure is a variable speed dc motor driving a small gear pump, like the oil furnace pumps. the orifice size can be fixed. faster pump speed- more oil flow, lower temp, higher pressure. slow it down just a bit to raise the temp to what you want. dc motors availble from grainger- gear pumps too.
have you worked on this more? probably needs a low level shutoff if run unattended. good work! pat
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Anything else to add to this very solid work Tim?
mathematical elegance -- desired result achieved with minimal complication |
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OK - Warm weather is finally here and I have dried a few barrels of oil again this spring. No big updates but several small problems and improvements.
Pumps -- I have been using a shurflo RV 1.8 G/M water pump for all but the latest barrel of oil. The shurflo has worked well, the electric motor has run warm enough that you did not want to hold your hand on it for more than about half a second and still keeps on running, no electrical problems with the motor. The actual pump housing is plastic and the internal design of the pump uses 3 small plastic diaphragms. Because of the diaphragms the pump creates pressure pulses, this causes a pressure guage to girate a good bit and it also will cause the pump housing screws to loosen a bit when running it at over a hundred pounds pressure over long periods while filtering oil. The pump would develop a drip after running continuously for several days, no real problem, simply tighten the screws. -BUT- 120 to 150 pounds pressure is a lot more than the normal shurflo pump is designed for and a couple of problems associated with the pressure shutoff switch have shown up over time. The following picture is of the basic shurflo pump type that I am using. standard_shurflo_pump_2_.JPG (34 KB, 84 downloads) |
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The first problem is with the actual electrical switch that is used in the pump. The switch is located in the plastic section on the very front of the pump, the switch itself is an industry standard " microswitch" type switch. It can be replaced by removing the 3 center screws on the switch housing and prying the plastic snap tabs open to expose the switch
Mechanical switches are only designed to operate for a few tens of thousands of times before something gives up so this switch gets a workout on my filter setup when the filters get clogged and the pressure reaches the set point, the pump may turn on/off every second, depends on how fast the oil is seeping through the filters. this action has caused me to replace the switch a couple times over the last couple years, again, no big deal, luckily it has always failed in a manner that has shut the pump off so nothing has gotten over pressurized. This picture is a closer view of the switch housing. pump_switch_assembly_cu_1_.JPG (27 KB, 63 downloads) |
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A caution about removing the pressure switch unit. There is a plastic diaphragm located under it that has a spring and a check valve behind it, these parts will jump out as you pull the switch housing away from the pump.
This picture is of the diaphragm and the parts located behind it. ck_valve_parts_4__.JPG (23 KB, 72 downloads) |
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