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A small electric flash evaporator to dewater WVO.
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Ok, I found replacement valves. Here's the deal. There are at least 3 revisions of the valve "kit" (sold as an assembly - even though only one valve is deformed):

94-232-00 Santoprene $9.55
94-232-05 Viton $24.24 (that's not a typo!)
94-232-06 EPDM $11.82

By this chemical resistance chart, I know the Viton will handle gasoline, kerosene, vegetable oils, and crude/mineral oil, but that seal kit is almost as much as I paid for one pump and more than I paid for the other. So, I think I'm going to just replace them with the original Santoprene valves and use the cheap Harbor Freight pump for transferring my blend. (It's on sale for $25 right now.)

This message has been edited. Last edited by: PerkHouse,


Brian

2000 Jetta TDI
1982 Mercedes 300D Turbo
1986 Isuzu P'up (NA)
1985 Mercedes 300D Turbo
75/25 WVO/D2 for warm weather
50/50 WVO/D2 for cold weather
Uniqueness is a treasure not to be buried. - Laurence Martel
 
Location: High Point, NC | Registered: May 04, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Lots of terrific info here on the problems of dewatering UCO. My comments today are directed to those of us who use small quantities of oil. I process about 30 liters of oil per week

I have noted comments made by various people here on the futility of dewatering oil by in bulk by brute force heating. The problem being that the water vapor vaporized at the bottom of
The column Condenses in the cooler material as it rises above the boiling zone.
My solution to the problem is to ensure that the boiling zone is not just at the bottom of the container, but distributed (somewhat!) vertically in the tank. My tank is approx 14 in. diameter by 21 inches high. I installed a 600 watt (approx.) under the bottom of the tank and suspended a similar element suspended in the oil so that it was just covered.

The elements are 2.6KW units - running at 115 volts - salvaged from a cook top (ask your wife what a cook top is!)
I find that with this setup I can remove about half gallon of water from a 10 gallon batch of wet oil in about three hours or, maybe a bit more depending on conditions. I consider the oil is dry when it reaches 125C

This works just fine for me. It may work for other small processors here.
I use only about 5 gal of BD per Week.

CAVEAT!!!
If you toast yourself with the electrics here, that’s your problem not mine!
Seriously, I am a retired electronics engineer and am comfortable with my Implementation of the above concept. If you don’t know what you are doing-
DON’T DO IT. You can get seriously dead!


Cave ab homine unis libri
 
Location: Raleigh,NC | Registered: September 23, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I was moving 5 gallon jerry cans around in the garage and came across a couple of cans full of oil from before I began using the flash evaporator. The oil in these cans was well filtered and settled, looked great, no free water on the bottom of the can even after being stored (sealed) for well over a year. I was just finishing up drying a barrel of oil through the FE so I finished it up and then poured these cans in the barrel, I got a continuous small amount of steam from this oil, not a lot, but enough to be visable exiting the vapor pipe.

I had burned this same style oil for several years as a blend without problem prior to using the FE, it just confirmed my suspicions of having a bit of, say, moisture, in my settled-only oil. I assume this is the "dissolved" water that does not seem to cause problems with injector pumps.

I will say that long-term warm settling probably works well enough as long as you draw from the top and use only the oil from the top half of the barrel. I have run oil through the flash evaporator after the supply barrel had set for several days in the sun, I always get some steam from the bottom 1/3 of every barrel but the top 2/3 of the barrel does not always produce visable steam. There does appear to be a small amount of water vapor even if it is not visable, at least every time I have held a mirror up to the vapor outlet It has fogged almost instantly and water droplets will form on the mirror in just a few seconds.

I feel much more confident using the FE.

I will be reworking the heater pipe shortly such that it is mounted directly to the flash tank, makes a more portable unit. I have about 300 gallons of filtered oil in one tank and 250 in another that needs to be dewatered, I will set the FE on top of each tank and run it for a bit more than 3 days continuous.

The Suntec pump is working fine, just don't run it more than a few (very few) seconds without oil. I turned off the feed valve to the pump just long enough to blow air through my filters to push there oil into the oil supply barrel, I did not bother shutting the pump off. It took less than a minute to blow the filters but I had already seized the pump, Lukily I was able to turn the shaft with pliers enough to get it turning again and I don't think I did any permanent damage, glad I was powering it with a small 1/6 HP DC motor, it just stalled, a big motor would have torn something up.
 
Location: fisher,illinois,usa | Registered: June 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks a million Tim
I Just finish the flash evaporator and it works like you said.Thanks for all the free information ,I was able to build one with just the information from here
Luis
 
Registered: July 09, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Luismc -- OUTSTANDING -- Please share info (and pictures) about your device and experiance. there are endless ways to make one of these devices, I am sure many of them are easier and more efficient than my approach.
 
Location: fisher,illinois,usa | Registered: June 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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i can not find "LIQUID PROPANE GAS BURNER NOZZLES"
anywhere. is it possible if i buy them new they dont come seperatly? i have to buy a burner or something ?

has anybody tried buying these new ?
 
Registered: March 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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I am (and many others are) just using the orifices at McMaster-Carr.


Brian

2000 Jetta TDI
1982 Mercedes 300D Turbo
1986 Isuzu P'up (NA)
1985 Mercedes 300D Turbo
75/25 WVO/D2 for warm weather
50/50 WVO/D2 for cold weather
Uniqueness is a treasure not to be buried. - Laurence Martel
 
Location: High Point, NC | Registered: May 04, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Tim, how about some plans for building one of these nifty devices. I need to build one for my on-board dewatering setup now that Dana has convinced me how dangerous micro-droplets of water are.


Jojo
 
Location: KTown - Itch Capital of the World | Registered: June 04, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Tim, what do you think of the Shurflo pump. It says it can do 150 PSI.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Shurflo-12-Volt-1-5-GPM-150-PSI-800...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Jojo
 
Location: KTown - Itch Capital of the World | Registered: June 04, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I can tell you that you do NOT want to pump a blend with that pump unless you change out the Santoprene diaphragm to a Viton. I'm not sure if diesel/kerosene will warp Santoprene, but I know even a small percentage of gasoline will.

As far as running your flash evaporator on it, well I didn't try that particular model, but I have tried 4 pumps so far; 2 were Shurflo pumps. I've only been happy with the Suntec oil furnace pump. (See the archives.)


Brian

2000 Jetta TDI
1982 Mercedes 300D Turbo
1986 Isuzu P'up (NA)
1985 Mercedes 300D Turbo
75/25 WVO/D2 for warm weather
50/50 WVO/D2 for cold weather
Uniqueness is a treasure not to be buried. - Laurence Martel
 
Location: High Point, NC | Registered: May 04, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by PerkHouse:
I can tell you that you do NOT want to pump a blend with that pump unless you change out the Santoprene diaphragm to a Viton. I'm not sure if diesel/kerosene will warp Santoprene, but I know even a small percentage of gasoline will.

As far as running your flash evaporator on it, well I didn't try that particular model, but I have tried 4 pumps so far; 2 were Shurflo pumps. I've only been happy with the Suntec oil furnace pump. (See the archives.)


What were your experiences with the Shurflo's?

The Suntec pump is just a pump, right? no motor? I don't think I have the capability to fabricate a frame for it to connect a motor. Is there any model of the Suntec pump that has a motor connected already?

Also, what is the GPM rating of this Suntec? Is it self-priming? Is it fast enough to be used as a collection pump? (at least 10 GPM)


Jojo
 
Location: KTown - Itch Capital of the World | Registered: June 04, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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JojoJaro -- Plans or parts list -- There are infinate ways to build this type of unit, my unit is mostly hand fabricated from salvaged material so it can't be easily duplicated exactly even by me, depends on what materials are at hand. The basic idea of the "heater-in-a-pipe" concept of pressurizing oil/water to some pressure higher than open air while heating(higher pressure allows higher temperatures before the water in the oil boils, this allows dewatering of oil containing higher quantities of water) is the general concept that is being applied. the amount of water you need to remove deturmines the amount of heat you need to apply, the flowrate you want deturmines the size of the oriface and type and size of the pump. Page 7 of the "heating WVO with WVO' thread (here, pictures half way down the page) shows how Murphy is flash evaporating using the cheap blue HF centrifigal pump , making only 30-40 pounds pressure, but he is applying a huge amount of heat from a flame.

I keep trying to find some sort of standard parts to use in building a FE that will allow being able to build one basic unit from a parts list, have not figured this out yet.

Shurflo -- The shurflo in the link looks like a closer match than the one I was using. It is rated for 150 pounds so you should not have the problem with tearing the seal under the pressure switch that I had with my 60 pound rated unit. I was having to adjust the cutoff switch setting with too much "screw in" on the pressure cutoff adjustment.
The shurflo will flow only about 1/4 as much oil as its "water" rating so the max you can expect from this 1.5 G/M rated pump will be under 1/2 G/M with oil.
Self priming -- These pumps are designed for thinner water so don't "suck" that well with oil, it probably will self-prime but it won't work well trying to use one as a collection or transfer pump.

Suntec -- Yes, these are pumps only, no motors connected to them. They are available in several sizes but none is big enough to use as a collection pump, most of the ones available on ebay will flow a max of 17 G/HOUR (not minute), and you have to remove the internal screen to get even that flow rate. They are self-priming, sorta, you will have to use the air purge outlet port on the pump the first time you use it, sometimes this is also necessary after they have set unused for a while.

I have reworked the heater pipe assembly on my unit, it is now mounted directly to the side of the flash tank, Makes it a nice pertable self-contained unit now. I hope to get the new electronic temp controller and the pump loss-of-pressure safty shutdown interlock finished in the next couple days. Once I get it all back together and tested a bit I will post pictures and info.
 
Location: fisher,illinois,usa | Registered: June 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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If you are having difficulty with coupling a motor to a pump, check to see if there is a Motion Industries location near you. Usually, the people behind the counter can assist. They have a web site of course, but you will have to have an idea of what you are looking for. Lovejoy is at least one manufacturer that makes couplings. They typically have rubber cushions that are forgiving with sloppy alignment.
 
Location: SE Louisiana | Registered: July 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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And as stated in previous posts, McMaster-Carr is the least expensive place to get the Lovejoy couplings. Mine were under $6 for both halves and the spider.


Brian

2000 Jetta TDI
1982 Mercedes 300D Turbo
1986 Isuzu P'up (NA)
1985 Mercedes 300D Turbo
75/25 WVO/D2 for warm weather
50/50 WVO/D2 for cold weather
Uniqueness is a treasure not to be buried. - Laurence Martel
 
Location: High Point, NC | Registered: May 04, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by PerkHouse:
I can tell you that you do NOT want to pump a blend with that pump unless you change out the Santoprene diaphragm to a Viton. I'm not sure if diesel/kerosene will warp Santoprene, but I know even a small percentage of gasoline will.(See the archives.)


Brian, if I changed the Santoprene diaphragm to viton, will it take more than 160*F WVO? It is rated 160*F now with Santoprene.

Where can I buy a viton diaphragm? McMaster-Carr? What is it called? Do you have part numbers?

TIA
Jojo
 
Location: KTown - Itch Capital of the World | Registered: June 04, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I don't know the temperature rating of Viton or the plastic used for the valve assembly/housing.

Sources for the different valves can be found in previous posts in this thread. (Look at the first post on this page.)


Brian

2000 Jetta TDI
1982 Mercedes 300D Turbo
1986 Isuzu P'up (NA)
1985 Mercedes 300D Turbo
75/25 WVO/D2 for warm weather
50/50 WVO/D2 for cold weather
Uniqueness is a treasure not to be buried. - Laurence Martel
 
Location: High Point, NC | Registered: May 04, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I dought that the pump will run reliably at a temp much hotter than the 160 deg f listed, I am a bit surprised to even see it listed that high, usually see 140 stated. This 150 pound pump looks to use the same plastic pump/cover that is used on my 60 pound pump.
The shurflo pump on my filter setup ran at about 140 deg and worked fine at filtering pressures up to the 120 pound shutoff setpoint but once I cranked the pressure up to a continuous 150 pounds I began getting leaks around the edge of the plastic pump cover. The leaks were caused by the mounting screws loosening up, I attribute this to the much higher amount of internal "pounding" on the plastic due to the higher pressure setting (audibly louder when running and more amps being drawn by the motor), this was while pumping cold oil so probably would be more of a problem with hot oil. The leaks were stopped by retightening the mounting screws and there was no perminant damage, just a neuscence having to do it.

A quick web search indicates that the pump I have on my filter tank (and was using for the FE) has viton valves and a santoprene diaphragm, never had any problem with these in several years of pumping straight veg.
 
Location: fisher,illinois,usa | Registered: June 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Tim and Brian,

Do you think the Shurflo I listed or any of the Suntec's would realibly pump over 160*F (maybe 212*F) over time at 150 psi? Just you gut feeling opinion. You guys have opened up the Suntecs, are they all metal parts inside.

The reason why I may want to pump really hot WVO thru it is because I may want to cycle the WVO several times. Electricity will be free for me so might as well (145A alternator with 3000 wattt inverter.) Also possibly to get rid of some condensation. And also, I will be installing it directly into my WVO tank instead of using a separate smaller tank for it. You meantioned that the first few gallons of WVO at startup may have some water in it.


Jojo
 
Location: KTown - Itch Capital of the World | Registered: June 04, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Hello Jojo

I am using the 8030-813-239 High Pressure Pump and have had no problems with it.I do not pump hot WVO as one pass and the WVO is dry so I do not recycle. I try to upload a photo of my FE but was able too

luismc
 
Registered: July 09, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Tim and folks,

The shurflo pumps data sheets indicate a thermal protection breaker openning when the pump overheats. And according to the chart, I exptrapolated around 2 hours of continuous use before it reaches the 205*F thermal break point.

http://www.depcopump.com/datashurflo.htm

Have you guys been able to run any shurflo pump for longer than say, 2-3 hours.

Jojo
 
Location: KTown - Itch Capital of the World | Registered: June 04, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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