So let me get this straight Spongebob, you are using a regular GM filter? Are you running both fuels throught the stock filter or do you have a second filter & housing for the veg? You are able to clean & reuse it with this bottle of awesome stuff? I've never heard of that being done. The veg filter I am using is a spin on engine oil filter type. Will this stuff clean these types of filters?
Could you provide more info?

this will not work on a spin on type oil filter.the gm type filter for the 96 to 98 chev- gm is different and will work on svo or diesel this filter also has a bleeder. the filter caseing mounts at the rear of the engine in the middle. the best thing about the filter is it can be cleaned with awsome not destroying the element auto zone has these filters check it out the spin on is inclosed and trying to clean it can cause you a lot of problems trying to get a good pump to last the gear seems to be a great idea my thing is keep it simple and cost you never know when or where you will break down and getting the part could be a problem thats the good thing about this home page getting ideas on this topic

when you check out this filter its for a1998 gm 6.5 diesel.a bottle of awsome is 1 dollar a the dollar store and it dont take much I only run one filter thats the gm

quote:

the best thing about the filter is it can be cleaned with awsome not destroying the element auto zone has these filters check it out the spin on is inclosed and trying to clean it can cause you a lot of problems

If you prefer cleaning your filters & reusing them, then that's fine. To each their own.

Most people have no problem keeping their spin-on filters clean-they simply throw them away & install a fresh one when their pressure/vacuum gauges tell them that the filter media is getting plugged up.

If I were going to develop an SVO system that required me to wash the veggie filter elements, I'd consider building it around this:

http://www.gopurepower.com/sto...splyItem&itemKey=683

It's brutally expensive, but rugged enough to last forever if treated with reasonable care.

When I was seriously considering buying this element, washing procedure was an issue. I was concerned that if placed in a wash basin of IP friendly cleaning solvent, particles dislodged from the outside of the media may find their way inside the element by having been sloshed around by motion of the solvent. This led me to think that developing some sort of modular homemade backflushing system would be best as one of the ports could be capped off when the backflushing fluid was pumped in through the opposite port. If there is only one port on the element, that would make backflushing all that much easier.

At least the element has a clearly visible exterior support tube. I gotta figure this insinuates that the element is backflush compatible.

Cheers.

quote:

Facet

here bob

I tried to use the WALBRO FRB (frequency pulsed or something) suggested oil pump on here on my 6.2l
I wasted 120 dollars. It worked for about 2 weeks and then on the freeway my pressure went down to zero psi.
Unfortunately for me - I thought the issue could be related to something else on my fuel system.
So I delayed replaceing the pump for a couple weeks. The pressure came right back up when off the freeway.
I was wrong and my injector pump blew up because of me forcing it to draw it's own fuel.
I run 80% clean WVO, 20% diesel.
I replaced the pump only , no more problems. Filter was clean (not to mention enourmous on a Racor 1000)

DO NOT USE THE WALBRO 7-10psi one, or you may suffer a similar fate. I do run heat through mine... but it is seriously just not up to the task.
I personally think the people who ponied up the dough for the Aeromotive 1000's are on the right track. I currently use a vane style high performance mustang fuel pump, and it works great.

Or those pricey Fass electric pumps . I know of people using the stock mechanical pump on Ford IDI s for both fuels and replacing them every 2 years as an item of preventive maintenance (PM ).

quote:

I personally think the people who ponied up the dough for the Aeromotive 1000's are on the right track. I currently use a vane style high performance mustang fuel pump, and it works great.

I've had no trouble with the low-pressure Carter pump that's OEM on GM 6.2/6.5 vehicles. The NAPA number is P74017. Both of my vehicles have used them for over 100,000 miles. The one in the VW has an electric heater just ahead of it, boosting the temperature of the warm svo comning from the heated tank, and the one in the Mazda just pumps warmed oil from the heated tank to the filter.
Cheers,
JohnO

Correction the high powered mustang fuel pump i use is not a VANE pump
it's a BBK 1602 GEROTOR design. I use an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator behind it.
And also a Walbro low pressure FRB back at the tank (3psi , so as to not make my filter start spewing out the racor seal)
The walbro one in the rear seems fine, and at only 70 bucks , no complaints.
The other FRB walbro i had 7-10psi , probably would have worked fine, but the delivery on the freeway was just not up to par for a v8 .
I tried to take apart this BBK just now , and there is no way . no i realize it is worth 260 bucks! so i'll leave it alone. That and the whole point i was gonna take it apart was to modify the vanes. Now i know it is a gerotor design so i'll just leave it be and see how long it lasts.
I really think a gerotor design should be the way to go. Cheaper to some affect than the expensive ones , but still a psuedo gear pump design.
But we'll see.... I 've noticed at startup it barely makes enough pressure 5psi, when the oil is thickest. (single tank 80% veggie oil)
once my heaters start going it seems to get up to 7 psi like the regulator is set to.
sometimes it has 7psi though cold. It might that my primary battery is crap, I have to replace it NOW. not even enough cranking speed, and reading 12.2volts.

There are some very informative posts from Tim C Cook using Mallory 4070 and 4110 gearotor pumps near the end of this page - http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/ev...4871/m/789109481/p/5 - . Maybe Tim will post more about them here . Those pumps configured with a resistor may be a more affordable robust gerotor pump option over the pricier Raptor and FASS pumps .

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rkpatt,

The Mallory 4110 gearotor pump worked fine on a recent 1550 mile continuous trip but the weather was warm and I do not yet have any experiance with it pumping cold thick veg, the in/out fittings are 3/8 pipe so there should not be any restrictions due to small fittings. One caution about these Mallory pumps are that they have a very fine filter screen pushed down inside the suction side inlet passage, this screen is way too fine to pass thick veg especially under suction only. I remove this screen and place a much larger, and somewhat courser, screen filter between the tank and the pump inlet (picture).

The pumps run hot if powered directly from the vehicle 12 volt system, especially if the voltage regulator is set to output 14 volts or more, the 1 1/2 ohms of resistance drops the voltage that the pump motor sees down to around 10 volts when 14.5 volts is applied to the resistor and the pump is not working too hard moving warm liquid oil. The resistor actually controls the CURRENT availabe to the motor so the voltage to the motor will change depending on how hard the motor is having to work, unfortunatly this means the harder the pump has to work to move thicker oil the LOWER the voltage that will be appled to the motor, this is just the opposite of what we need. It would be best to power the motor from a fairly cheap Pulse Width Modulated DC motor speed control, this type speed control would allow you to adjust the voltage to the motor to keep the motor from overheating but it will not limit the current that the motor needs when pumping heavy oil.

From what I can tell all these Mallory pumps use one of two electric motors, the smaller flowrate pumps use a smaller motor with internal brushes, the larger pumps use a larger motor with external brushes, the brushes are replacable in both motors. The smaller internal brush motor on the 4070 (70 G/H open head flow) stalled on me several times apparently due to grit that was so small I could not even see it when I opened up the pump (pump is easy to open up for cleaning, 2 screws). The larger 4110 (110 G/H) external brush motor has way more torque and did not stall once over the entire trip, it started and ran just fine on 10 volts from the resistor (1 1/2 ohm total, calculates to 25 watts, use resistors rated for total of 50 watts).

There is no reason to go with a larger than necessary flow rate pump, it will just circulate a lot more oil past the internal pressure regulator and cause more heat in the pump (or an external Bypass pressure regulator at the IP inlet if you defeat the pump's internal regulator so you get max pressure (up to 70-80 pounds) applied to the filters as they plug). My vehicle only needs to move about 12 G/H of fuel but apparently some of the the newer vehicles need to return a LOT of fuel to the fuel tank to keep the IP cool, you will need to deturmine your vehicles lift pump flow rate requierments to insure you will have adequate pressure into the IP at all times.

The pressure regulators in these pumps are set for around 5 pounds pumping gasoline but the output pressure jumps to around 7-8 pounds when pumping thicker warm veg. The pressure regulator can be changed by changing the internal spring to something stiffer, or if the spring is replaced with a short piece of solid rod the internal regulater becomes inoperative and the pump can make upwards of 80 pounds pressure if the flow rate of the pump is greater than the restrictions in the fuel system.

screen_filter_on_tank.JPG (19 KB, 13 downloads)

Comparison of 4070 and 4110 pumps.

mallory_pump_size_comparison_-_L_4070_-_R_4110.JPG (24 KB, 9 downloads)