I am wondering if the plans for a homemade wvo centrifuge are still available through this site.
I seem to recall that plans were available to purchase from one of the other members maybe 2 or three years back.
you can build a centrifuge your self if you are resourceful.
However, you will most likely spend considerably more time and money acquiring the parts than if you just outright bought a unit. The time you will save is worth the money invested.
However, if you have access to a metal working shop, and you plan to build a unit for centrifuging large amounts of oil, then you might be better off building a unit of your own.
If you look around the web, you will find that with a little ingenuity, you can successfully build a unit. Look for the raw power centrifuges. While I don't think it's really necessary to have a speed control unit, because the faster the bowl spins, the more junk that will come out of the oil.
You'll want a centrifuge that will produce several thousand g-forces. A commercial produced unit will spin the bowl at about 5,000 to 8,000 rpm. The one I use is from pacific biodiesel and with the pressure at 90 psi from the pump, it spins really fast and removes God knows that from the oil. Does a fantastic job. I've had zero problems with running WVO/diesel in the 1995 Mercedes E300D. I had the fuel filter changed and there was no junk in it. Still could have used it for a while.
Thanks for your reply.
I will be filtering small amounts frequently. I just need to remove the heavy fat in veg oil as I run my home heating system on it. If the fat is not removed it will clog my filter bags.Removing small quantities of fat at a time is easier for me to get rid of in my domestic waste bin. I have access to equipment in a machine shop and like tinkering.
You will also have to do some experimenting to see what temp gets get the oil to how you like it. Some folks heat the oil to 180 degrees F which I think is a waste. It also melts the fat to liquid and does separate in the centrifuge, but because it is still liquid, it will come back out. At least that's what may happen if you use a centrifuge that is pressure driven.
If you buy/build a electric motor-spun unit, you will probably have better luck, plus you will be able to make more passes without having to clean the bowl out. I'd like to do that, but I'm short of what is needed to buy or build a motor driven bowl centrifuge, so I'm stuck with what I have.
I heat my oil to only 105-110 degrees F and get really good results. I fire heat my WVO with really crappy oil, run the pump-centrifuge setup based on the output of my centrifuge and how much WVO I have. Since I like to ensure quality as best as I can, I let the system run long enough to pass the oil four times through then centrifuge. Seeing how you are just going to burn it with open flame, you may only need to pass it through once, maybe twice.
Thanks for that,
Maybe one pass will do the job. The filter mesh which was part of the burner is 100 microns so I do not need my oil very clean compared to guys that are running vehicles on it or making bio diesel.
I built my open bowl CF. Trying to build an open bowl from a billet of 10" x 6" aluminum is way too costly for the raw materials. I purchased the purchase of two major parts, the aluminum bowl and 1/3 HP motor from Simplecentrifuge way back in 2005 for $750 US. Since then the prices have come way down. Absolutecentrifuge sells the bowl, motor and registration plate for $500US. The rest of the items can be purchased off the shelf. I constructed the outer bowl from 10 qt sauce pot, two 1" dia aluminum tubes (one for the CF'd oil and the other to drain off the junk stuff. A clear Mylar plastic top allows me to see inside the bowl as the oil is being cleaned. My second open bowl project will use a 10 Qt pressure cooker for the outer pot - the top is lockable and will keep the fumes and spray from getting outside the bowl. Legs are made of 1" x 1" angle iron. I heat only the small amount of settled oil through two 7500 watt hot water heater elements. A gate valve controls the flow at 1/2 gal. per minute through the heater elements. The raw WVO is poured into a 60 gal. cone poly barrel to settled for a day or two, then the oil is allowed to gravity flow into a metal 55 gal drum. A 1/10 hp pump sends the settled oil up to another poly 55 gal laying horizontally. This drum gravity feeds the heating system elements, gate valve, then drops into the CF and gets cleaned. If the RAW oil is still dirty, by evaluating how much junk is in the CF bowl when it is stopped after 10 gals or so, the oil can be sent again to be recycled. If you are having a problem of getting out the FAT, don't use any heat. Heat dissolves the fats and will, as you have found out, plugs filters. I don't like to have hot oil under 90 lbs of pressure. Really makes a mess when one of the hoses ruptures.
Thanks for that.
I will take a look at their site and see if they do a 240V / 50hz motor as I am based in Ireland.
You could purchase just the open bowl and registration plate. Simplecentrifuge is the CF bowl I purchased from them. Might be an alternative if they don't supply the 50hz model. Another benefit is the quality of the CF'd oil. I had the RAW oil tested using the Sandy Brea Water test. Results: Raw = 750ppm of water; poured into a 55 gal drum then pumped up to another 55 gal poly laying on its side; gravity feed through two 7500 watt hot water heating elements and temp set to 125F; flow is 1/2 gal per minute; retested and tested again via Sandy Brea system. Results = 75 ppm of water. The clean out of the CF bowl is about 1 minute. I scrape out the junk with a kitchen spatula. It is a clean, quick and dewatering method. I went the filter bag, salt, mist washing, heat settling, etc, etc. It is the dollars spent for cleaner VO.
Saturday night here in Ireland, I will take a look at their site and send them a mail. I can purchase a 240V motor here and machine a coupler to mate up to the bowl. What is the ideal rpm I am looking for.Does anyone have any photos of a complete unit. I will assist me in construction of mine.
Check with the CF company. The CF bowl might have female threads machined into the base or a straight through hole for a nut/washer. I recall there are pictures of the CF bowl that should show the attach point. RPM is important in a direct drive. My Simplecentrifuge spins at 3450 RPM.
I will talk to my machine shop friend and see if he can get his hands on a material suitable for turning into a bowl.
Will keep you posted.
Raw Power is another c-fuge seller that will sell just-the-bowl, for the DIY'er.
But really, just get the basic c-fuge complete and spare yourself the time and money.
Remember you'll be paid back in about 10 tanks of veggy you put through the car!
1987 Mercedes 300D - 2 tank VO
Placed order with wvodesigns for bowl and booster kit yesterday.Hope to build unit soon as I have motor etc lying around. I don't run wvo oil in a vehicle, its used to heat my house. I just need to remove fat as it blocks my filter bags very quickly if I don't. Let you all know how my CF works out.
If your concerns are the FATS in the WVO, run the oil COLD through the CF. Heat will dissolved the fats. A fellow Greater San Diego Greaser member had a one tank MB 300TD (wife's car) that couldn't 300 miles on the clock before it lost power while on the CA freeway ( you know what the conversation was when she called him on Monday morning on the side of Interstate 5)! He filtered the WVO through two up-flo 55 gal drums, one heated. He asked to have 4 cubbies of his best up-flo filter VO through my Simplecentrifuge. Ran the oil through in five gal. batches. Had to stoop and clean out a very large of fat from the bowlafter each cubbie. In total, about 3.5 gals of FAT was removed. That week he ordered an Absolutecentrifuge. From then on, the wife's TD didn't have the VO oil filter changed in over a year. As far as constructing one from scratch - good luck. The price of a 10" dia x 6" billet is out of this world. Purchasing the CF bowl ($550 est), 10 qt aluminum Mirror pressure cooker for the outer container ($40), and 1/3 hp AC motor (3450 rpm) ($100) are the major parts.
Placed order with wvodesigns for bowl and booster kit yesterday.
You wont be sorry ,, The guys @ WVO Designs are the best!!
Ours runs un-attended for hours,
1999 K3500 Dually with a new AMG 6.5TD turned up a bit by John Kennedy
Chevy DMax Totaled thanks to a 20 year old in a Mustang
Thanks for your reply,
Your set-up looks impressive.
Let you know how things go.
Thanks for that.
Going to have a chat with the wife and see if she will donate the pressure cooker. I cant see a problem as we haven't used it in years.
I don't know what the OD of the CF bowl for any of the CF manufacturers are so check with them before you purchase the pressure cooker. The Mirror pressure cooker #92112 fits my Simplecentrifuge bowl.
dragonfly ,how much clearance is there between your cf bowl and the retaining bowl?, i put one togeather and had trouble with it creating a vourtex or something that would send the whole thing shaking if there was too much oil fed to it and couldn't even consider cold oil. i think it was because my retaining bowl to small in diamiter for the size of the cf.i want to rebuild it properly so have you heard of any other probs like this or am i on the right track thinking its the gap between the two bowls?
I just read your post and would like to hear comments from other members if this distance is an issue as I will be building a cf soon. Also is 1/3 hp motor adequate to do the job.