I posted this question on Frybrid's website but hasn't gotten any replay yet so I thought I would post here as well.
Here is the question; For those that have been running on wvo for a long time, will at some point in time will you end up with a system fouled with Poly? I call it paying the piper.
I have been using wvo since 2008 and figure to have driven in excess of 200,000 miles without much of a hassle. While the warning signs were there things came to a head last year when the car would not start. I found the fuel system badly fouled. I ended up breaking everything down to clean out the system. Cleaned the Solenoid Valves, Flat plate Heat Exchanger, and VO Filter Heat Exchanger. Replaced the injection pump and injector nozzles. Blew out all the lines including the diesel side return to the diesel fuel tank. All is good now but I got to wondering whether or not paying the Poly Piper was inevitable.
As I said the warning signs were there. Several years prior the fuel selector solenoid valve became fouled with bits of poly during a trip. I cleaned out the valve and was soon on my way again but should have realized trouble was brewing. The only place poly could have come from was the fphe and/or the brass fittings on the fphe. It was the only thing the VO filter and the fuel solenoid.
Since getting back up and running again I now use an Oxidative Stabilizer in the oil I have to help in preventing the formation of poly. The question is whether or not this will happen again sometime down the road.
I have found that one bad batch of oil can leave a bunch of poly. I am still not sure what makes the oil bad enough to poly up my tank and valves.
I recently had to drain my tank and clean my system after running a normally processed batch of oil I got from a Thai restaurant dumpster. My oil usually comes from better sources, but it was there and I burned it.
Frybrid?!?! That site has been dead a while.
My processing of oil has evolved over the years since first starting out. I definitely do a better job of it now (centrifuge into a 5 micron bag filter). That said I have picked up a wide range of oil from barely used to the worst crap imaginable. It was a batch of really crappy stuff I got off Craigslist that probably brought this to a head. However, I believe the warning signs were there so it may have been a question of just when, not if. When the car quit on me I found poly in everything. It took awhile to get it all cleaned out.
As I said I now use a Stabilizer in hopes of preventing this from happening again, or at least retard it. I am also a bit more selective on the oil I receive.
Frybrid...The website is back up and active. It looks like Frybrid (Chris Goodwin) may be slowly getting back into the business. As I have not been in contact with him, that is only conjecture.
What stabilizer? I have an ingredient that cuts the chicken skin. I'm still doing some testing to find ways to couple it to the diesel or WVO so it doesn't separate and end up on the bottom of the fuel tank.
2002 F-250, 7.3l on WVO since '04
'82 VW Rabbit diesel 1.6l na
'83 GMC 6.2l Class C RV
'85 F-350, 6.9l flat bed
'85 E-350, 6.9l cube van
2 Mercedes 300SD's
3 Chinese Changfa-style diesel generators- 12kw, 8kw & 7.5kw
Mitsubishi 3 cyl diesel generator/light tower
Kubota 2 cyl. diesel, water cooled air compressor
Onan 12.5kw air-cooled diesel genset
I run my company entirely on renewable energy including electricity from generators running on biofuels.
The stuff I use is Springboard Oxidative Stabilizer purchased through Utah Biodiesel Supply. I don't know if Chris Goodwin (Frybrid) is actually selling stuff again but he also has what looks to be a similar product on his website.
I have 140k miles on oil in ten years and have never had a poly issue .....ever. The only place it builds up is on the top of my tank if I spill a little. I also use copper in my system with no problems whatsoever.
2016 GMC Canyon, 2.8 4 Cyl Duramax
I have been using WVO for about 8 years now, no issues whatsoever. I made my own system hose-in-hose and it works perfectly. After about 50,000 miles, I had the engine rebuilt because I overheated it and warped the head, a non WVO issue. I was curious to see the pistons, IP, injectors etc. No problems, no coking, gumming, buildup of residue, nothing. I am very careful about filtering and I make sure the engine is 100% warm before I make the switch. About 1 year ago, I started to add 5 gallons of diesel and some fuel treatment to every 50 gallons of oil. This lowers the viscosity a bit and it seems to run smoother.
96 Dodge 4x4,5sp, not stock
14 years and never had a problem in the last 12 since I started drying my oil.
Unlike most I make sure my oil is dry enough to pass a hot pan test before putting it near anything. Like above I also have copper in my fuel system and this has never been a problem either because there is zero water to react with salts or whatever else may be in the oil.
I do occasionally blend with unleaded mainly in winter although I have no problems starting on straight WVO all year round down to -3oC. I also add a bottle of naptha to the tank about twice a year which does and excellent job of cleaning anything out. Naptha is the main Ingredient in EVERY oil and fuel flush I have found on the market. I buy it in litre bottles at the hardware for $7 which makes it about 10 times cheaper than buying it as some additive which has the naptha at about 50% and the rest being kero or Diesel.
For many years I have preached the importance of drying oil and this is the reason why. It's not about eroding injectors or pumps, it's stopping the formation of this crap.
Will you have to pay the Piper?
Of Course. The good news is he has a payment plan.
Either pay with a tiny bit of extra work ( None really in the way I have my setup) drying the oil beforehand or pay with interest in cleaning out your fuel system and potentially replacing components like IP and Injectors prematurely.