How do you do yours? I've heard about teeing the line and am just wondering if anybody has a different way of doing it. Also curious where you put yours as it would seem to be the most accurate on the IP in line. I like the idea of being able to read it inside via wire is OK. So if anybody has a good remote display model- thanks.

I have a meat thermometer on the injection lines to make sure line heaters work($1.).
Flea market racing water temp gauge run thru firewall underdash to coolant heater.

In my truck I have a Sunpro coolant temp gauge. It's on the heat exchanger, in the out side of the coolant side. Since the veg isn't flowing when I need to know the temp, I figured putting it on the coolant side was a better idea.
The veg hot side should be at least as hot as the coolant cold side which is why I put it there...

I have temperature sending units at different points of both the veg oil and coolant circuits. I use Autometer Z Series gauges and picked up additional temperature sending units from www.egauges.com. Nice folks, great prices and good service.

A simple rotary dial allows me to switch between the different sending units and display it on one gauge. I have one gauge for oil and one gauge for coolant.

If you are wanting a mechanical dial type gauge, check out www.envirospec.com for their part number 1799-200. It's a stainless steel temperature gauge PLUS a thermowell to add into a pipe. Best part... it's only $4.95 right now!

The folks at Envirospec sell to the pressure washing market and are fine folks. They also have some great prices on Shurflo 12v and 115v pumps.

The temp gauge thermowell is about 4" long so you'll need to add a T. I suggest flowing into one side of the T, the thermowell on the opposite side of the T and flow out the "base" of the T.

I have a JC Whitney digital guage, the sensor is JB Welded into a 3/8 NPT female T connector. I did this on purpose so that the probe is mounted in the flow of fuel.

My fuel is looped with the FPHE (I heat both diesel and veggie). The sensor is mounted between the lift pump and the IP. Guage is mounted where the Digital Compass use to be above the rear view mirror.

Todd, like the last one on the bottom of the Auto meter temp senders here?

If not perhaps you could find the one you're talking about from the index of temp senders.

Thanks, you've got the right stuff, how exactly are you mounting it? I'm thinking the only way to mount a probe like that would be a tee. I've seen sensors that are like flat flex material which you can slip under a 5/16 hose but haven't found them online yet. What I'd like to do is put one along the length of the intake tube to the IP and have it stick out held in the middle by the clamp. I like the gauges though.

I'd call the folks at egauges.com to make sure but I'm thinking ATM-2385 is the one to use.

I mounted some of the sending units in filter heads that have extra ports. At one time I had one spliced in the fuel line. In this case, I had a 3/8" T with hose barbs on either end. I went up to that size in order to have good flow around the sending unit. However, adding fittings in a hose is NOT good. Each fitting in the liquid flow adds to line loss.

Also, remember that the fitting must be grounded. On the inline fitting I strapped some wire to the T and connected that to the frame.

By the way, I see you are using Graco transfer pumps. What type? I have a lot of President 10:1 series and other brands of air driven 1/2" and 1 1/2" diaphragm pumps. However, I use rotary gear pumps for moving oil around.

quote:

However, adding fittings in a hose is NOT good. Each fitting in the liquid flow adds to line loss.

That's my feeling exactly, especially with 5/16 line so I think I'll find either a wire sensor or one flat enough to do. That's the drag of greasecar filters, no ports. But I want a reading right at the IP. Someone with a greasecar kit recently mentioned hitting 210F on his temp for veg- but I doubt that was at the IP.

For Graco I just highly recommend their pumps. I actually picked up a blue devil transfer, for thinner fuels but it does great for VO when it's warm above 80F. They're the real American made deal and not just thrown together in China. I got mine about 2 years ago new with hoses from ebay for about 200. The shipping had somehow jostled the motor to prevent it from working so I opened it up without much difficulty and found that one of the spring rods surrounding the motor had been knocked out of position- corrected that and it's been running great ever since. Though the ultimate in my opinion is the Oil Transfer Pump but believe it or not that's the best deal around for the 12V (they also have 2 115V 9A models that are less $). But that one's beyond my budget for some time because I'm moving to CF filtration and the Gracos are 2.3 GPM min (8.5 max).

I have wired an electric sender in the
IP RETURN LINE to the tank.
should work good to see if my preheaters are on long enough BEFORE I start the truck.
Watching how fast the guage comes up should be consistant on startup.

haven't used it yet though, but this is bar none the most important part for me a single tanker. Startups must be clean and the cylinder temp must come up as fast as possible. I cannot have oil getting injected that is thick.
IMO that is a bigger problem than the supposed oil 'condensing' on the cylinder walls and causing piston coking. It is my opinion that condensing doesn't cause it , it is caused by trying to get your injectors to inject thick oil. So I intend to try and prove this...
otherwise in a year or two I'll be cleaning some pistons...lol

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I have wired an electric sender in the
IP RETURN LINE to the tank.

That's a good idea did you tee the line or use a different kind of temp probe?

I have a Stewart Warner mechanical water gauge used for vegoil. The sender is in a brass tee after all my heating components and just before the fuel pump. IMO it's my most important of my five aftermarket gauges.

Well if you're running 3/8 for sure that could be done but as Todd mentioned it's probably a lesser flow. I'm running 5/16 and the return is even 1/4 which greasecar gives. I think right after the IP would be ideal as mine has the banjo bolt so some fuel flows straight through. A tee in the return would also let me go up to 5/16 and not lose flow. A real good wire sensor would be an invaluable tool but I haven't found one that would do yet.

I went with 3/8" fuel supply and return lines plus 3/4" coolant lines for this very reason. The difference in flow by going up just 1/8" is tremendous. By the way, I use a HOH design.

Cool thanks Todd. Is your rotary dial inline before the gauge? I'm looking at the oil temp gauges, tranny oil is the stock use, on egauges. I figure that would be better than a water temp gauge and I like the idea of a tee on the return not interrupting the flow.

quote:

Originally posted by muzak:
That's a good idea did you tee the line or use a different kind of temp probe?

i used a T fitting , and put in a probe that is long enough to get in the flow of the return.
it's basically a water temp sender i think
i use 3/8 return so i don't feel its a restriction, atleast it caused no issues