Hi,

I run my TDI 2000 since june with svo, about 20 000km.

The setup like Greasecar.com with Triple-bypass-hose from Greasel.com.

Heated aluminium tank and heated fuel filter.

The temperature at the pump still around 123F-128F.
In the tank it's 150F-155F.

Wath is the problem about a temperature at the pump?

Thank's

If your tank is that warm and you are running the heated hose all the way to the IP, there is virtually no way the temperature at the pump could be that much less. So, the conditions you describe raise several questions. First, start with the easiest. Are you sure those temperature readings are correct? In correct readings could result from anything from instrument error to method error. If you have gauges reading each temp., try switching gauges to make sure both read the same. Look for things that could be influencing your readings. Is your tank thermometer right next to a coolant coil, or is your IP thermometer "seeing" a cool draft? These are things that just need to be checked one at a time to verify the readings.

If you are absolutely sure your readings are correct and the tank really is that much hotter, I would say the next step is to carefully check your insulation and plumbing each step of the way. Is there anywhere cold air could be cooling your oil before the IP? How far does the hose run betweens the bypass hose and the IP? For there to be that much temperature drop, the heat has to be escaping somewhere. Find every place it could possibly be escaping and insulate the heck out of it.

My gut feeling is the true answer to your problem lies somewhere in the middle of the above options. I don't completely trust the readings you are seeing, and it is highly possible the line isn't well-enough insulated.

Keep everything as simple as possible, but no simpler

--Albert Einstein

We used a Type K thermocouple stuck INSIDE the hose near the injection pump, so it can't be drafts or bad thermal contact.


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1995 Golf 1.9TD intercooled

Okay, how did you check the tank temperature?

Keep everything as simple as possible, but no simpler

--Albert Einstein

Your thermocouple should be sheathed with the bead NOT grounded to the sheath. Contact by the bead or wiring with anything conductive (like coolant) will casue problems. Be sure to run compatible wiring (chromel and alumel) from the t/c to the ice point reference junction, if it's a seperate unit. If it doesn't have a reference junction, and is supposed to use one, your readings will be off about 32 degrees. If running direct from the t/c to an instrument, just be sure the wire is compatible.

A more detailed description of your thermocouple setup would help. Are you using a commercial of-the-shelf t/c and indicator, or something else? COTs units ought to work without problems. Is the waterpump temp sensor also a t/c?
cheers,
JohnO
Test Engineering Dept.

Omega Type K thermocouple, CR/AL teflon insulated

directly hooked to a yearly calibrated Fluke 50s


---------------------------
1995 Golf 1.9TD intercooled

Ok, excellant setup, so it's something else. Have you checked the reading in boiling water (100C)?
If the readings are real, then is the pump temp simply that of coolant from the radiator, about to be pushed into the engine, and might the tank temp reflect the heated coolant after it's heated and leaves the engine?
All water pumps since the Ford model-B push water into the engine, sucking it from the radiator. Hot water for the heater most commonly comes out of the head at the back of the engine, where it's hottest. Your temperatures may be normal and proper.
Cheers,
JohnO

Ok, after a few test, i realise the Tdi go to very hot temperature it's very long. when i run 25 minutes in the highway, the temperature in the tank is 155F-160F and at the pump are 143F-148F.

The Tdi (A4) have many loop for coolant system.

10 minutes to go at normal temp, 90C (190F) and 10-15 other minutes to heat a SVO system, tank, line, filter.

I insulated a heated filter.
I have a Triple hose from Greasel, and passed under a car for 6 feets.

I go to install a Vegtherm from Biofuels.
When the car up at the normal temp about 10 minutes, i switch the vegtherm on before switch to veggie.

quote:

---

Originally posted by Habanero:
Okay, how did you check the tank temperature?

Keep everything as simple as possible, but no simpler

--Albert Einstein

---

I put into a thermocouple.

The temperature before heated filter is 135F, after filter 120F and at the pump 123F.

The filter is heated with a coolant heat exchange made with 3/8 of the inch of cupper.

The filter still not hot after long run.
The heat exchange not good.

Witch heated filter you use?

I add an Electric fuel line heater (Vegtherm) to keep oil at the good temp. And it's a very good product for quik switching.



[This message was edited by Jumping Jack on 09 December 2003 at 11:35 AM.]

JJ,

If you still read this form????????

I have a 2ooo Jet, n have the same problems, hotter in the WVO tank than at the IP.

Since I had read lots of posts about cool WVO temps when I installed my kit, I installed 4 additional temp sensors.

One sensor is at exhaust of the heated fuel filter for water temp.

Another one in the WVO tank,

Another one is 4 or 5 inches be for the IP in the fuel line.

The last one under the oil filter to keep track of the engine lub oil temp .

All my readings are similar to yours, hotter in the thank than the WVO just before entering the IP……

I also used a Stainless Steel stick type food service thermometer and dipped the tank manually to verify the temps. It actually showed hotter than my digi dash mount gage does (perhaps because heat rises n my digi sensor is at the bottom of the GreaseCar tank)...

What did you end up doing to solve your cool WVO at the IP problem? Feel free to eM me directly at glenn@3cats.com since I may not be able to find this paqge again..........

Gage.jpg (26 Kb, 8 downloads) vJet temp selector