The 80s acura pumps are gear pumps. The one Biomyride had trouble with was not a 80s model.
The Montero pumps are vane pumps.
Late this afternoon I finished cleaning the rotor I took out at 6:30 this morning, and just replaced it again. Both have vertical lines of goop with the wall of the rotor shaded with goop but the metal still visible. I was a little surprised at how much I'm still getting at the 32 hour mark, so I'm going to continue to run it until later this evening.
Overall, there was a significant amount of goop, despite having been run through a 10 micron filter. The filtering only appeared to make a difference in the first cleaning of the CF, after that the amount of goop was about the same as my normal cleanings.
This indicates that the larger size particles are the first picked up by the CF, as one would expect. Also, as we expected, it is a waste of time to filter that fine prior to running the CF, you'd just be using filters and still having to clean the CF anyway.
As I have mentioned, following my CF I normally move my oil into a storage container, and from there to my truck it passes through a 2 then 1 micron filter. I'm figuring to change stuff around so I can run through the filters then the CF on the next batch.
2002 F250 Vegistroke now with the new V3 module!
I am postulating that even with moving oil, the surface temp of the elec heating element could still be high enough to "burn" and carbonize the oil thus constantly emiting black goo.
Can you run a batch without use of the electric heating element? Instead, heat this batch in a metal 55 gal drum with a propane stove. Bring it up to temp slowly (low flame) and maintain 160F with a low flame then run it through the CF. Insulate the drum with fiberglass to lower heating temp. Compare the amount of goo with the batch heated by the electric element.
I would run this test if I could but sorry to say I still have not setup my CF.
Here is a way to test canolafunola's theory (but I don't think your heater creates the goo since you see continually declining amounts)
Run a batch of new SVO which has no carbon, for a long time with your same heater on. If you start to see some black goo after many hours, it must be from the element. Or even if the VO starts to get a dark color, it must be creating some carbon.
That would be a good test. However, 50 gal of new SVO is $150 give or take.
My postulating about the electric element generating carbon is not entirely without basis. I have a glow plug heater in my 2 tank VO conversion. I used a brand new shiny glow plug and was careful to only turn it on when fuel is flowing. I have taken it apart for inspection after approx 10K miles of use. It was no longer shiny, but entirely black, carbon black.
And BTW I do not use the glow plug heater much after that inspection, only for a minute or so when I switch to VO.
I let my oil set in the sun in a black drum it will get to 125 are so and no matter how many times i run it through over 15 times i get the black goo it's not from the heating element
Of course, in your case you did not use an electric element!
I am not saying the black goo is totally from the electric element. Just some of it.
can you heat your set up with the sun and run with out your ele and see if it make a different
You could do it with 1 gallon and the test would be just as valid. And it could be done much quicker too, such as 60 passes in 1 hour, which would equal 2 days of running 50 gallons.
A glow plug heater has a much higher watt density (watts of power per amount of surface area) which makes it not comparable. The flow across the CF element is also much faster.
I wasn't going to post anymore photos in this test, but this one is worth looking at. In conclusion, after filtering to 10 microns then running a grand total of 32 CF hours, this is the rotor from hour 28 to hour 32.
2002 F250 Vegistroke now with the new V3 module!
As the housing collects gunk and such, does the flow out the bottom of the Dieselcraft slow down at all? Can discharge rate be any indication of how much more gunk the rotor can handle?
2002 F-250, 7.3l on WVO since '04
'82 VW Rabbit diesel 1.6l na
'83 GMC 6.2l Class C RV
'85 F-350, 6.9l flat bed
'85 E-350, 6.9l cube van
2 Mercedes 300SD's
3 Chinese Changfa-style diesel generators- 12kw, 8kw & 7.5kw
Mitsubishi 3 cyl diesel generator/light tower
Kubota 2 cyl. diesel, water cooled air compressor
Onan 12.5kw air-cooled diesel genset
I run my company entirely on renewable energy including electricity from generators running on biofuels.
No the flow doesn't change at all.
90 pages of thread....
Wow. I could see this potential when I first saw the little spinner on the side of the barrel.
I will be building one of these over the next few weeks.
2000 F-250 7.3 with 160,000 on WVO, probably 10,000 of that in Biodiesel, total milage of 333.333 + !!
Hi Sun. I've finally got my set up going. I'm using a hot water urn going to an oberdorfer pump and carbonator motor purchased from DC (very quite) then through a bypass and pressure guage and then the CF. First run after 6 passes it got rid of 1/8 inch of goo but my oil was preety clean and had only been used by a cafe for 5 days. However I'm having trouble with the urn. It keeps cutting out on the safety sswitch. I think it thinks it drying the element and switching off and consequently I have to be there to reset every two minutes so it takes a long time to heat the oil up to 180f. does anyone know what I might be able to do ? Is there a way to shut off the safety ?. Also I cant find a pressure regulator anywhere here in Aus. Any ideas. I will post some pics soon of my set up. thanks again. It has all been worth it.
Me thinks we have a new wvo "sage". The black Knight has been "de-throned"!!
2006 - Jeep Liberty CRD - Wife drives
I've finally read/skimmed most of these 90 pages.
Anyways, I hope I'm not asking a repeat question... But...
When I get my oil, if I let it settle for 3-6 weeks in a cubie there is about 75% oil on top and 25% white/yellow fatty junk and flour on the bottom.
1. Now that I'm building the CF rig... do I need to still let it settle?
2. Obviously if I let it settle, I'm just taking the oil from the top no longer the white sludge at the bottom right? And what happens if I just skip a settling and suck it right up in to the CF Barrell?
95 Ford Powerstroke Diesel 2 tanks diy
84 GMC 6.2 Diesel
Had: Several Diesel Mercedes
No settling needed. If you don't settle, you may need to clean the CF rotor more times or run longer if the VO contains lots of particles.
I don't suck the white/yellow goo from the bottom of barrels or dumpsters, it can be hard to dewater it since it is an emulsifier, and it can go rancid and stinky. It also doesn't lower viscosity as well even at 160F in the car.
AND then writes:
That is two different answers to the question.
IF you only get your oil deliveries in cubies from the restaurants, then let it sit for a month - and then just soak the goodies?? OR...
Let us be more precise here!
As I see it - it's realy worth a new topic.