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Dieselcraft centrifuge works great -My filter and dewater rig
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I changed out my power steering pump for the Northern pump #10565. Just got it running. Due to the greater output from the pump I used a 2 inch pulley on the pump and a 1 3/4 on the motor. During a run I get adequate CF flow and by-pass also. Much quieter operation than the power steering pump. I had cold viscus oil on start up and slight cavitation if I tried to run the CF with the thick oil. It doesn't help that I have the in line filter right before the pump. After 80 degrees temp no problem.

Photo attached.

I thought I saw someone talk about system temp control. My snap disk hot water thermostats seem to work very well. After I get the temp up I shut down the top heater and only run with the bottom heater. If I lose the pump I have a high limit protection with the snap disk.

ImageNew_CF_Pump.jpg (260 Kb, 131 downloads)
 
Registered: February 12, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by SunWizard:
quote:
Originally posted by rpman:
If I suck my WVO through a 100 micron screen then do a dozen or so passes with the CF at about 160 f then once through a 1 micron filter I should be good to go?.


Sounds good. A 150 micron screen is enough. Less passes may be enough, one way to decide would be if you are clogging your 1 micron (absolute) filter quicker than you like.
Thanks Sun munch appreciated. Should have my set up ready to go in a week or so. Will keep you all informed.
 
Location: Melbourne Australia | Registered: August 06, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have been using the DC CF for about a month now with about 50 gal processed.

Can't say enough good things about it. The oil looks really really good.

My setup is a little different from Sun's. I use a barrel heater and I use flexible hose.

One thing I noticed: I have to keep making major adjustments to the pressure relief valve to keep it at 88-90psi. I find that the pressure is greatly affected by the temperature of the oil, and obviously by the speed of the spinning CF (the pressure will be really high, until the rotor starts spinning at the high RPMs)

So, I can't imagine how a direct coupling would work, because you can't make adjustments like that if you don't have a pressure release. (?) Anyway, direct-coupling or not, an adjustable pressure relief valve is required IMO.
 
Registered: October 26, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Good evening all,

I could use a little help here, let me explain.

I finally got around to hooking up my Dieselcraft today, and experienced some problems. My set up was:
1 valves at the wash tank, dry tank, DC, final filter, and return loop to pump inlet.controls where oil comes from and to.
2 sPump is a power steering from a hyundai elantra, no reservoir, powered by 1/3 HP motor. Pump running at approx1400 rpm.
3 valves are on soldered copper manifolds made from 1/2 inch plumbing parts (5/8 outside diameter), lines are 1/2 inch heater hose pressed onto copper pipe and secured with hose clamps.
4 presure gauges before both the DC, and the fianl filter.

This morning I started it up for the first time using roughly 30 liters and used motor oil( I haven;t started collected any veg oil yet}. At first there was no flow or pressure at all. I shut down and figured that there was not enough oil in the tank to drive it up and through the pipe that drops to the inlet of the pump. I removed a higher hose on the oulet side and poured in some oil until i thought it was running back to the tank.
I restarted, and slowly closed the full open loop valve until I sarted getting a reading on the gauge. when the valve was fully closed I was getting a variable reading of 65-70 psi, and good flow but could not tell if the CF was rotating due to the noise of the pump. This ran about 5 minutes. and I shut It down.
when i returned i noticed a leak from the heater i had made. I removed it and and added hose in its place. then I started the motor again with loop valve re opened and the new hose blew of with some force painting me and most of my shed floor walls and ceiling. There was no pressure rise indicated at all by the guage.
I cleaned the stuff up, and reattached the hose very carefully with 2 clamps, after first checking for a blokage in the line. I also tested the gauge with my air compressor and it was bang on. I tried again. on start up the pump took a few seconds to prime, and got much louder as it started to pump. BAM same thing again, and again no pressure indicated by the gauge.

I cleaqned it up again, and went for a beer.

So..... what the hell?

John
 
Location: Deep River, Ontario | Registered: March 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You don't say whether you heated the oil, but you need to get it to >120F before you run the CF.

I don't understand your setup, such as where is the final filter and valves. It sounds like you have it plumbed wrong and there is a valve restricting the flow. There should be no valves that could block the flow between pump and CF. A diagram would help, such as modify this one:


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4
Zero fossil house- 100% solar power and heat.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: August 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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hi Sunwizard,
the oil was not heated.
i removed the heater when it began to leak this morning, but there was oil passing through the CF at that time. I don't understand why it didn't work afterI replaced it with straight
hose, but this would;nt create any more of a choke point.

there are 2 manifolds with valves.

on the first manifold the valves control which filter recieves the oil, either the CF or the fleetguard final filter. they are to be fully open when in use. there is also one valve to control the loop bypass and fine tune the process pressure. this loop back to the inlet side of the pump manifold below

one the second manifold ontrol which tank the oil is drawn from, the wash tank or the drying tank to recirculate when the wash tank is mostly drained.this one recieves the by passed oil from above.

I can't figure why the would be enough pressure to blow off a hose but not register a reading on the pressure gauge?

Thanks JOhn,
 
Location: Deep River, Ontario | Registered: March 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Unheated oil could be a choke point since it can't pass through the jets or pump easily.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4
Zero fossil house- 100% solar power and heat.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: August 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I just got my OC50 in Friday and I'm looking at setting it up for soap removal after caustic stripping.

Does it need to be so hot or can soap removal be successful at a lower temperature?
 
Location: Cowboy Country | Registered: December 06, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Johnre:
hi Sunwizard,
the oil was not heated.


How thin is the motor oil you're testing? I'd think if it was thin oil, heating it might not be necessary anyway.

I also had trouble following your system layout. But, I'd unplug the line from the CF and make sure you have flow. You may have shot your pressure gauge and so it doesn't show anymore.

If you are getting flow down the line to the CF, then remove the rotor and replace the bell, turn the pump back on and you should get flow out the bottom, if not than the pressure regulator in the bottom of the CF is jammed, if you do get flow with the rotor out then I'd check the jets inside the rotor.

Sam


2002 F250 Vegistroke now with the new V3 module!
 
Location: Wyoming | Registered: July 25, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I know there was talk many pages back about using a shurflo, has anyone used one sucessfuly?


Muleears
Hampton Roads, VA USA
85 MB 300D, 260K mi. and 83 300SD 158 mi. WVO Blend
Very tolerant wife

 
Registered: May 22, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Sam Crowe,
The oil is prettythin 5and 10w30 from my van, with probably a liter of "oil flush degreaser".

The gauge is OK I tested it after the first exposive episode by hooking it to my air compressor, and it was accurate.

I'll try your other suggestions, but i am wondering If the pump is spinning to fast at 1400 rpm. perhaps I should try to slow it down to 1100 or so?

I would really like to not have another greasy shower shower today, the last one is still wahisng out of my hair.

Yours in things oily,
John
 
Location: Deep River, Ontario | Registered: March 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Johnre:
I'll try your other suggestions, but i am wondering If the pump is spinning to fast at 1400 rpm. perhaps I should try to slow it down to 1100 or so?John


Hi John,

My motors are direct drive to the pumps, and they are 1725 rpm. I'd first take the rotor out replace the bell and try it to be sure it is getting that far.

Sam


2002 F250 Vegistroke now with the new V3 module!
 
Location: Wyoming | Registered: July 25, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Again, it HAS to be heated to >120F, maybe higher for motor oil. This could be the entire problem. My motor is 1725 direct drive also.

Degreaser in it may make it not remove anything, it is designed to keep everything suspended in the oil. And it may take many hours >20 to remove anything from motor oil. Not a good first test of it.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4
Zero fossil house- 100% solar power and heat.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: August 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I wasn't too worried about removing stuff from the oil as mush as testing everthing else, just making sure that what actually happened didn't happen when I had 200 litres of oil instead of 30.
Sunwizard, I know i'll have to replace the heater, I am still baffled as to why I ould get explosive pressure but no reading on the gauge.

Thanks to all,
John
 
Location: Deep River, Ontario | Registered: March 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Looks like someone is capitalizing on the work being done in this thread. The ad says it can polish to less than 1 micron. Is that a realistic expectation? I am still back on like page 10 or so, so if we have hit this before I apologize.

http://fryertofuel.hypermart.net/store/page18.html
 
Location: Atlanta, GA | Registered: July 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I knew that many vendors would start selling these once the word got around since it really is a great way to filter. Thats one reason I posted all the plans and info here rather than try to sell everyone plans for it and try to keep it secret.

10m absolute which I have shown that it does is good enough for me.

Running for longer is when you get the <1m stuff out. But there comes a point between 4-6 passes for me where the amount removed declines, and the water is removed enough, and at that point I think going through a 1m or 5m cartridge filter is a better option than running for many more hours. For several reasons:
1. power used to keep VO hot and run the pump.
2. time.
3. chance of accelerating poly.

A cartridge filter will last very long in that kind of post-CF use. If you really want to be a greasy scientist about it, you could calculate the added cost of power for running more passes to get a desired micron level, and compare it to the cost of cartridge filters.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4
Zero fossil house- 100% solar power and heat.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: August 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I've continued my investigation into the potential of polymerizing oil doing long CF runs. This time rather than look at the dispersion as a representative of viscosity, I did a run test. Also this time I did a test with unused canola oil to compare with 3 other samples.

All samples, including the unused canola, were heated to 160 degrees, then a series of three drops were put on the blotter angled at 45 degrees. Again, no time limit, the drop ran down as far as it could. This focused the oil in one direction making it easier to compare. Three drops were placed to allow for different drop size. After looking at the results I think it would have been just as good to put all 3 drops in the same line, rather than doing 3 lines and averaging the results.

Under each drop is the length of the run in millimeters then below the three of that series is the average of the three.

Results summary:
Pre-Centrifuge WVO oil average run length 64mm
Straight Canola oil average run length 61mm
WVO following 12 hours of CF at 160 degrees 63mm
WVO following 32 hours of CF at 160 degrees 62mm

The WVO was a mix between 6 different restaurants and includes saturated fats in the mix.

The pure canola was the most consistent in run length, but shorter than the average of each of the others. There does appear to be a trend of shorter run length with time in the CF, I'll look more into this, but for now don't see the long run times as being an issue unless later tests show it polymerizes easier at a later date.
[IMG:left] [/IMG]


2002 F250 Vegistroke now with the new V3 module!
 
Location: Wyoming | Registered: July 25, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by SunWizard:
I knew that many vendors would start selling these once the word got around since it really is a great way to filter. Thats one reason I posted all the plans and info here rather than try to sell everyone plans for it and try to keep it secret.

10m absolute which I have shown that it does is good enough for me.

Running for longer is when you get the <1m stuff out. But there comes a point between 4-6 passes for me where the amount removed declines, and the water is removed enough, and at that point I think going through a 1m or 5m cartridge filter is a better option than running for many more hours. For several reasons:
1. power used to keep VO hot and run the pump.
2. time.
3. chance of accelerating poly.

A cartridge filter will last very long in that kind of post-CF use. If you really want to be a greasy scientist about it, you could calculate the added cost of power for running more passes to get a desired micron level, and compare it to the cost of cartridge filters.


As is usual in this chain, Sun, you are both accurate in your appraisal of the system and too kind to those who seek to profit, and even too kind to those who seek to learn.

A question: What cartridge filter are you using after the CF?

Thanks again.
 
Location: Austin | Registered: April 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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I am not using any more filtering after the CF before I pump into the truck, using my truck as a long term test, and also since I have proven to myself that I can get <10m absolute. I am getting >10k miles on my truck filter.

I am recommending an absolute rated cartridge for those who want to go smaller, such as people with high pressure common rail engines. Or for those who want extra peace of mind.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4
Zero fossil house- 100% solar power and heat.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: August 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Sam Crowe:
There does appear to be a trend of shorter run length with time in the CF, I'll look more into this, but for now don't see the long run times as being an issue unless later tests show it polymerizes easier at a later date.


Nice science project Sam. I think the CF would remove poly particles faster than it creates them. An interesting thing to me would be to study samples of pre and long run post-CF VO after its been stored for a few months. This would tell if the long running accelerated poly.

With my climate I am trying to store away a winters supply so I don't have to collect and process much when its -10F. So 4-6 month long term poly is my concern.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4
Zero fossil house- 100% solar power and heat.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: August 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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