quote:

Originally posted by Judge:
If anyone is having trouble locating a pump to run the dieselcraft CF, I purchased 3 pumps.

If you can't find one, contact me. I will part with one for what I paid for it. I am not a dealer or anything but figured I might need spares or one for a mobile unit. Would rather have one of the members have the deal.

The pump is an Oberdorfer N991R, new in the box. I believe this is the same one, or very close, to the same one the Sunwizard uses.

Judge

I am of the same heart as Judge. From a previous post:

I have three extra Oberdorfer 991 set ups should someone want one. They are perfect (according to Pete at Oberdorfer) for the DC 50 -> 90 PSI and 1.8 GPM. They are brand new and close coupled to .5 hp 110V motors. Here is a link that might help: http://www.pumpagents.com/OberdorferPumps/N991N-F51.html

I am selling them at no profit as a way of saying thanks to all of you who have helped me through this site. I bought the new pumps for $75 delivered, the coupling for $80 delivered, and the motor for $65 delivered, so the total would be $220.

So there is no excuse for you guys to have a reliable pump 'cause you can buy one from me or from Judge.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Sam Crowe:

Heat your oil to 140 degrees F, or greater. It is best to be either stirring it, or running it through your pump so the temp is even from the top to the bottom of the barrel. So, you would have the valve to your DieselCraft closed and your bypass valve fully open and circulate your oil while it heats up.

Sam

Sam, Sun, Judge, etc.

I am just getting on line with my OC 50.

Would it be possible for you guys to outline how to actually use the system? For example, does everyone start by heating the oil to 140 - 160 degrees and then slowly divert heated oil to the CF until it gets to 90 pounds? Or can the oil be heated concurrently with the CF working?

A brief description of what you experts are doing at start up would certainly help me out.

Thanks in advance.

I would be interested in one of your pumps. I am sending you a pm

quote:

Originally posted by veggieguy:
I am just getting on line with my OC 50.

Would it be possible for you guys to outline how to actually use the system? For example, does everyone start by heating the oil to 140 - 160 degrees and then slowly divert heated oil to the CF until it gets to 90 pounds? Or can the oil be heated concurrently with the CF working?

A brief description of what you experts are doing at start up would certainly help me out.

From my summary on page 1:
Operating:
Turn on the pump to fill the lines before turning on the heater! I turn it on for just a few seconds, it self primes quick, until the first oil drips from the centrifuge, then shut off. You don't want cold oil going through. Then I turn on the heater element, wait about 1 minute, then start the pump. When you hear it whine you know its working.

For the 1st hour, I use both 1125watt inline heaters. This makes the first pass VO going through the CF about 120F. After 1 hour, I usually stop, capture the output and clean the rotor. Then when I restart I use only 1 of the heaters, which heats the VO slowly to 160F by the end when I am done after 2-3 more hours.

Ben Howard, question please.

Your photo on page 74 shows the dual filter setup. I found the Donaldson filter head OK but what is the filter in the red case? Where did you get that?

Another subject.

I have been playing with an inline filter from the CF tank to my power steering pump. Two times now I got debris plugging the output of the pump. Yes, I have needed to clean the jets on the CF. I do filter the raw oil into my drum but I guess some of my construction debris still got into the drum.

I went to my local hyd shop and wanted to buy some kind of inline strainer between tank and pump. The BAnjo brand looks good but obviously with a 150 degree limit I wanted something better.

Here is what I did. I took the filter head from a Goldenrod, drilled a hole through the top for a 5/16 treaded rod. Then stacked a nut and small fender washer over an o-ring with the threaded rod going into the housing. Next I put an o ring next to the threaded hub inside the housing followed by another fender washeer with 4 ports drilled in it. Followed by another nut to hold this all together.

There is a cylindrical stainless steel mesh filter with out any plastic on it. I don't know for sure if Banjo makes it but it fits inside the Banjo filter so it is about 3 or 4 inches long and somthing over 1/2 inch in diameter. I slipped this over the rod and followed up with another fender washer and nut. The only thing I don't know is the temperature limits of the Goldenrod plastic housing. I will find out. Maybe there is a metal bowl I can change out if the plastic does not hold up. The bowl will not be under pressure and if it fails I have a ball valve shut off to control the loss.

I will report my results. And a picture too.

Dana

quote:

Originally posted by veggieguy:
Or can the oil be heated concurrently with the CF working?

A brief description of what you experts are doing at start up would certainly help me out.

Hi Veggieguy,

First, I think it is very nice of you and Judge to offer the pumps. Thanks.

I start running my CF when my oil hits 140, and heat it to 160 or so where my controller keeps it.

I finished my new settling tank so I can finish my new DieselCraft tank. It took a lot longer than I thought to clean the mess I had made a few weeks ago, so my weekend was pretty well taken up.

Below is a picture of oil that went from vomited soysauce to crystal clean, or DieselCraft clean.

Sam

Penguy, the black ABS inline strainers you can buy at the farm supply store were fine when I ran them up to temps to 200F. What temps do you think a Goldenrod can run at?

The picture of the red case came from http://www.swampsdiesel.com/. I believe that is a pump. This is not necessary for what we are doing. I only use one donaldson as a last filter before the oil goes into my Excursion. I wouldn't use plastic anywhere on the system. I almost started a fire when my radiator hose melted from the heat against a brass barb that was connected to where the heating element is. I now am all black steel except for 4 inches of extremely tuff radiator hose that costs 65 cents an inch. I have not had problems with jets clogging up and all I do is poor the oil through a strainer before the CF. If you want an inline filter of some kind, you might go to TruFilter which sells stainless steel filters and put it after the heating elements.

I'm building a settling system that I'll do before the oil goes through the CF to help with initial filtering.

quote:

Originally posted by Sam Crowe:

Below is a picture of oil that went from vomited soysauce to crystal clean, or DieselCraft clean.

How long did that take?

Ben Howard thank you for the info on the filters.

Not withstanding comments about plastics I have a plastic tank and now the Goldenrod filter bowl. Tank and filter bowl have been satisfactory up to 140 degrees with the temp taken out of the power steering pump.

Here is a photo of the Goldenrod used as a strainer.

Dana

WVO-Strainer.jpg (457 Kb, 100 downloads) WVO strainer

Here is a photo of the over all layout with the Goldenrod in operation. PSI is at 85 pounds.

Pump pulley is turning but strobe stopped the motion.

Plumbing-View.jpg (201 Kb, 142 downloads) Overall view

Check out this screen http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/53334.htm

This is the CF mounting with a ball valve used as a bleed valve and a grainger relief valve. I covered them up with some terry cloth because I did not want the oil mist in the air. The steel mounting bracket has a single hole bored in it to allow the oil out. The Tank capacity is 60 gals with about 50 gals in right now. I think I will but some plumbing under the mount so I can drain off the dregs upon shut down. It is hard to get a pan under the out put in this configuration.

I have a saw mill and lots of oak and other hardwoods so it was handy to use for the cross brace.

CF-Top-View.jpg (195 Kb, 121 downloads) Top down view of CF

How about this http://www.strickequipment.com/catalog/goldenrod%20filters.htm

This is the back side of the washing machine motor and the power steering pump. I cut the pulley flat and use the normal multigroove belt that fits the power steering pulley. Once again the pump is running but the strobe stopped the motion.

The motor was free and the pump cost $25. I took most of the plumbing out of my appleseed processor and reused it here.

Many thanks to Sun Wiz for all he has given to us.

Dana

Motor-and-Pulley.jpg (236 Kb, 113 downloads) Motor and pump

SteveBondy

I wish I had found that filter element to start with. That is much superior to what I did.

Thank you
Dana

I know that there's already another thread on this subject, but does anyone here have any experience with those Spin-Clean CFs?

I was so impressed with the simplicity of the Pitts style CFs that I wanted to make them for sale. After looking into the matter more closely, I realized that with all the potential safety regs to comply with and all the tech aspects of selecting the correct bearings and ballancing the rotor, it's more than I currently have time for. Perhaps one day...

For now it seems more practical to just buy either a Diesel Craft CF or a Spin Clean unit for my own use. I'd love one of those Simple Centrifuge brand Pitts style units , but I'm just to cheap to fork over the $500.00 for a rotor.

This brings me back to comparing the Diesel Craft units to the Spin Clean units. Any consumer tips?

Penguy, thanks for the photos and info.

You seem to have a washer motor with the same wiring as mine. I got fedup with mine and just wired the main coils, so I have to turn it by hand to start it. If you don't mind, could you please tell or show a picture of how you have yours wired up? As far as I understood, the starter coils can't be permanently wired in.

Actually, now that I think about it, I couldn't get my motor going at all. I used another simpler one. So the question is - please show a pic or tell me which color went to power, ground, neutral etc on your motor, pleeeeeeaasee!

quote:

Originally posted by Ben Howard RD:
How long did that take?

Hi Michael,

I had the oil settling while I was out of town, got home Friday, transfered it to my CF tank, heated to 140 and started the DieselCraft around 6:00 pm. Cleaned it at 9:00 pm and then let it run all night. Cleaned the CF first thing on Saturday, and continued to let it run all Saturday while we went to an art fair. So...about 22 hours.

I took about my OC-20 tank and it has a pucker, so there has been damage to the polybarrel running it at 160+.

Sam

Boy I don't know how you guys go for hours without checking on it. I have had so many issues with hoses breaking/melting, rubber gaskets on the heating element failing. I have had several hot oil showers and hot oil spray in my eyes. I have probably 30+ gallons of oil from different system failures on the floor of my shed. So far the only thing that has been fail safe for me is tons of plumbing tape on black steel and brass fitting threads.

What do you guys do when you are gone and a good size 1000+ micron moth flies into your CF oil?

Michael