quote:

Originally posted by veggieguy:
After using it to de-water and filer, is there a need to "polish" the oil by passing it through 1 micron sock filters? Or is this a waste of time as it is redundant? Thoughts?

Hi Veggieguy,

The more you run the oil through your DieselCraft the more it will "polish". I'd just have a 1 or 2 micron filter for the oil to pass through on its way from your supply to your vehicle.

Sam

My thoughts on the 1um polishing filter, is why not? If the CF is catching it all, then the 1um filter is doing nothing.

If the CF is not getting everything (and it might well not be, from Sun's lab tests. My recollection is that it did well down to around 10um), then you are catching the stuff before it goes to your car filter (10um for mercedes, 2um for some of the newer trucks). And a 1um sock filter is definitely cheaper, and more washable than a car filter.

I run my CF through a 1um sock filter (I had it lying around so I figured why not?It's not like the oil can get too clean!)

And then I send it through a large Cat 2um absolute filter. I love that puppy, it does a great job. No car fuel filters plugged in about 6000 miles. I used to plug a filter every few thousand miles.

I use clear tubes from the CF to my polisher filter (Donaldson) to my vehicle. I actually see a color difference in the oil before the Donaldson filter and after the Donaldson filter (Maybe I should be CF'ing longer). Here's a picture of the filter I use after the CF (this picture shows 2, I only use 1). You can get this setup for around $35 from www.vegistroke.com, replacement filters are $15. My oil passes through this one in my shed and then one on my vehicle before it hits the injectors.

quote:

Originally posted by Paul Drayton:
My thoughts on the 1um polishing filter, is why not? If the CF is catching it all, then the 1um filter is doing nothing.

I guess I do the same thing since I still run the oil through a filter to my vehicle tank. Since I've been running my oil through the CF all night and well into 1/2 of the next day my oil is very clean and my filters remain clean.

Your recollecton of Sun's results are correct, but since my filters are so clean I had to conclude that running my oil through the CF for an extended period I've cleaned it well below the 10 micron.

It seems, (I say "seems" since I have not had my oil lab tested), to come down either cleaning the DieselCraft 4 times and running it for 18 hours, or cleaning it twice and cleaning/replacing a filter at some point. To me, cleaning and replacing filters is a pain, especially considering the climate, I'd be fighting cold jelled oil too. I'm striving for "set it and forget it" by using larger batches, reducing piping and using temp controllers...We'll see.

Sam

Sam

quote:

Originally posted by Ben Howard RD:My oil passes through this one in my shed and then one on my vehicle before it hits the injectors.

Hi Ben,

How many passes does your oil make through your filter in your shed?

I use a double filter setup like your photo, (different make filters) between my storage and vehicle tank.

My understanding, please someone correct me if I'm mistaken, but the term polishing filter is used if the filter has multiple passes of the same oil through it, removing more and more of the small stuff, like the DieselCraft.

Sam

Actually my name is Michael; Ben Howard RD is the road I live off just east of Monroe WA

So far just once, I never thought of passing it through more than that. That's a great idea! I need to run my CF longer, so far I just run it for 4 hours or so cleaning it twice (but only about 20 gallons or so at a time). I just hesitate to do so because my current motor is 12 amps; I'm not sure how much that is costing me in electricity.

Quick question: I picked up some oil at Skippers; the smell is so horrid it makes me gag. I notice the goo in the CF is thick slimy and gray almost like old plumbers puddy. The goo I'm use to is dark almost like really compacted coffee grounds and the smell is much better. My wife says it's probably rotten fish. I almost want to toss this batch. Have you run into gray goo before? Also can diesels run on Hydraulic oil?

Thanks,
Michael

quote:

Originally posted by Ben Howard RD:
Actually my name is Michael; Ben Howard RD is the road I live off just east of Monroe WA

Sorry about the name, I actually did see you use Michael, that got lost in my mind when I was trying to figure out what RD (road) was; Registered Democrat? Recreational Doctor? Real Dumb? Rolls-Royce Diesel? Oh well, it was fun while it lasted

quote:

I need to run my CF longer, so far I just run it for 4 hours or so cleaning it twice (but only about 20 gallons or so at a time). I just hesitate to do so because my current motor is 12 amps; I'm not sure how much that is costing me in electricity.

That's about 1450 watts, so probably close to 15 cents per hour. However, you could use a motor a third to half that size.

quote:

Quick question: I picked up some oil at Skippers; the smell is so horrid it makes me gag. I notice the goo in the CF is thick slimy and gray almost like old plumbers puddy.

LOL, now when it comes to vomit oil I have experience!

quote:

The goo I'm use to is dark almost like really compacted coffee grounds and the smell is much better.

This is ideally what you want.

quote:

I almost want to toss this batch. Have you run into gray goo before?

Yes, usually when the pump draws water in from the bottom of a barrel and emulsifies it in the oil you will get gray/tan goo in the CF. You may have to run it 6 or more times to get rid of all the water. And when you do it will smell much better.

quote:

Also can diesels run on Hydraulic oil?

My understanding is that they will burn hydraulic oil, not having ever done it I couldn't advise. Seems they use to run automatic transmission fluid through diesels to clean the fuel system out, and it would burn fine...but again I haven't done it.

Sam

An efficient motor should only draw what it needs to run at speed with the load it has engaged. I think my motor (1/2hp) uses about 5amps to pump through my Teel rotary pump. That plus a 1125W heating element gives me about 15Amp/hour = ~15c an hour. So running it for 10 hours = $1.50. for 50 gal of oil that's about 3c/gallon which I can live with because filters are expensive, and so are injectors and cylinders, not to mention peace of mind. Last I checked, one peace of my mind was priceless!

I probably don't clean my CF often enough. I just leave it going for 2 or 3 barrels, multiple passes. Whenever I do clean it, it has about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of stiff black/brown goop that reminds me of some hash I saw some other people had (not me) in England. Ahh the good times....

Mr Road, I would definitely mist wash that oil before putting it near my vehicle.

Sam/Paul,

thanks for all the advice. My current motor and pump is giving 65 psi max. The wheels I'm using are about 1 to 1 or (2) 4 inch wheels. If I want more PSI would I make the pump wheel smaller or the motor wheel smaller? Getting a wheel on the skill saw was quite a hoot. I had a U-joint screw off of a Chevy K30 that threaded perfectly into the skill saw, and then I used some washers with a small piece of copper pipe between them to keep the screw from being tighten when the motor runs. I then drilled a hole through the head of the screw and the back of the pulley wheel to keep it on. It's extremely loud but works. I'm looking for a different motor so I can actually hear the CF spinning and save some $ in electricity.

Michael

You can charge him with not paying tax on it, or fuel tax on his car. Were I live the cops would most likely confiscate the Dieselhash for themselves.
Steve

LOL!

They can't prove anything! And I have a flesh eating lawyer in case they try...

I'm running a 1/6 hp 1" water pump motor from Harbor Freight at 2850 rpm and I can tell you that after last night, it is more than powerful enough to maintain 90 psi and the required volume needed to suppply the DC. I accidently blew a 3/8 inch fuel injection hose off the pump outlet and destroyed a 200 PSI gauge. It now reads 200 PSI all the time. It would not supprise me if I had well over 500 psi in the line. Accidently dead headed the pump at startup. Forgot to switch a valve. That will do it every time. It also dumps 25 gallons of oil in about 4 minutes into my tank through a 1 micron filter. Any more HP should not be needed. It is all about the pump and motor RPM.

Ben Howard, If you need more pressure, you really need more volume as the DC has a set restriction and the restriction will create the pressure. Using a pressure relief valve just maintains the restriction to give you a needed pressure. Larger pulley on the motor or smaller pulley on the pump. You need a calibratable dump valve in the supply line. I dump my excess back into the pump inlet instead of the barrel. I don't need any more splashing but returning the oil to the bottom of the barrel will also do but another hose to fall out of the barrel if it is not tied in. I get enough oil outside the barrel already. If you are going to change motors, make sure the RPM is similar or you will need to change pulley sizes again.

Paul, The nasty oil is why I now use nylon gloves all the time when working with the oil now. Not sure why this never entered my mind before. I don't want to touch that stuff at all at least until it has been cleaned. Also for me, after cleaning the oil really well, the smell is gone as well but I'm sure it is still not good for the skin.

Thanks for that Steve.

Which pump are you using from harbor freight? The standard bio-diesel mixing pump for $30 odd? That would be cool if that could be used. I've got two of those, only one being used.

I was going to power my system through an inverter on my bus, but recent posts about them burning out quickly with the spike on electric motor startup are making me rethink that.

I'm now leaning towards getting a gennie. The Honda eu2000i looks great but is expensive. Can anyone recommend a less expensive generator that would be able to do a decent job?

I'm planning on using this motor:
Close coupled pump and motor with releif valve $280 - page 64-65 - http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6PA31

And will be using one 4500KW 240v water heater heating element (at 110v).

Thanks,
Alan

quote:

I'm running a 1/6 hp 1" water pump motor from Harbor Freight at 2850 rpm and I can tell you that after last night, it is more than powerful enough to maintain 90 psi and the required volume needed to suppply the DC. I accidently blew a 3/8 inch fuel injection hose off the pump outlet and destroyed a 200 PSI gauge. It now reads 200 PSI all the time. It would not supprise me if I had well over 500 psi in the line. Accidently dead headed the pump at startup. Forgot to switch a valve. That will do it every time. It also dumps 25 gallons of oil in about 4 minutes into my tank through a 1 micron filter. Any more HP should not be needed. It is all about the pump and motor RPM.

hey steve,

is this water pump for 'wells' - i don't think anyone here has talked about using a well pump - i got a used one at a yard sale... Shur-dri 1/2hp (comes from Tractor Supply Company) it's a centrifugal pump (electric motor rpm = about 3875 i think) Can a basic well pump be made to create enough PSI with the proper flow? I know a fellow using the DC with a 1/2 hp well pump who gets 65psi and seems to do fine for him...

Any comments from anyone on well pumps would be welcome...

man,i'm a slow reader - took about a week of many late nights to devour this thread.. i am now imagining all the more time to read all the related threads... WVO War & Peace....

Cheers,

Jake

just purchased 2001 VW TDI Golf to convert...

I'm new, nevertheless, we have the Northern Tools in the outhouse and yesterday noticed they sell relatively inexpensive diesel and gas powered pumps. For example:
Like I said I'm new to WVO, so I don't know if these pumps are too big for moving oil or other ways unsuited, but I have built some solar powered equipment and I can tell you from experience that many inverters are wasteful of energy. If you are thinking of converting gas to electricity then back to spinning power, why not leave out one conversion? I am considering a small gas powered pump for WVO collection for my biodiesel processor.
Smiles
Brian Rodgers

Sun Wiz you around?

I have not been reading the thread lately, way to busy. I have two pics to post showing my progress. Who approves?

This is my set up. I have a 60 gal HDPE drum. Specs say it is good for normal use to 180 degrees melts at 239 I think. I plan to limit to 180 degrees. Assembled the iron pipe riser with upper and lower heating elements. Have psi gauge and temp gauge at the pump outlet. Psi relief valve and ball valve at the top of column just before the CF (got a 20). Built a stand to hold drum at slight angle. I found a foreign car power steering pump, now I forget what brand. It has a 6 groove pulley and of course I could not find one for my motor so I turned a new one for the motor. I turned it flat with a raised rim but no grooves, just like I drive the gen head off my 6/1 Listeroid fly wheel. Seems to work OK. I cut the pulley just slightly smaller than the pump pulley so it is running a little less than one to one. Oh, the pump cost $25 at a junk yard. I had an old washing machine motor and I guess I am running it at the slower speed about 1100 rpm.

I spun this thing up and it pumps, provides more psi than I need so I think I may cut the pulley down a little and reduce the out put. Right now I use the ball valve to bleed off oil. The relief valve is not performing well. I set it and reset it. I got a reliable psi at 75 pounds but I could not get it to set higher. It was just staying closed. Work in progress.

I do want to get the total output near the CF design capacity because I have way to much oil mist in the air from bleeding off the excess output.

But oh my the leaks in the plumbing. What a pain to take it all apart to redue the joints. I still have two joints that leak. Got to pull it down again. I machined two big washers to hold o-rings at the heaters. Of course they work just great and are easy to replace but not the bushings at the tees.

I live in the woods in Maine. I have some oil in an open out building that I was pumping and filtering to bring to the CF. I don't know when it arrived for a swim but that squirrel won't be coming down for breakfast. I guess it is a good thing I don't have bears and the moose don't dig my oil anyway.

If someone can give me permission I will post some pictures. I will need some instruction as to what file size to use. Or can I just add them as an attachment?

Dana

quote:

Originally posted by Boss:
I'm new, nevertheless, Smiles
Brian Rodgers

Welcome Brian. I grew up in New Mexico, but have lived more years out now. Still have family there. And, because of your comments about your Troopers I get close to bidding on a couple that have been on ebay the last few months. But my bride, who had a bad experience with one many years ago, nixed the idea.

Otherwise, if you have a lot of time to read, and a wireless connection that will reach your outhouse, there is a lot of pump information on this thread.

Sam

I got my mobile rig up and running today, but I'm having a little bit of trouble. I have the oil heated up and pumping through the centrifuge at approx 70-75 psi. The centrifuge will start up and run for say a few minutes and then will shut down on me. The pressure stays constant, but for some reason my centrifuge stops working. I have a variable speed motor, so sometimes if I slow the pressure down and then speed it back up it will start working again. I'm at a loss...any help would be appreciated.

How are you powering this unit? Generator? DC motor? What kind of pump? What kind of motor?