quote:

Originally posted by Sam Crowe:

quote:

Originally posted by Judge:
An important note to all that are attempting to use CPVC or PVC tubing in their system, don't.

I've put the same warning out several times on this thread...learned the hard way. I've replaced just about everything with black steel, and have gone to high temp hose for my tubing.

Sam

Sam and Judge,

I was planning on using sch 40 PVC to transfer cold oil from one barrel to another. NOT as part of the piping for the high pressure and high temperature CF fltering process. Will I be o.k.?

hello myname is shaun and i am new here

im back and have a question for anyone withe some time i have been reading the forum for a little while now and have running off and on oil for the past couple weeks i have a dieselcraft centrifuge and the past two weeks been trying to figure out how to work this thing and i dont think its working ? i am using a junk yard ps pump with a harbor freight 1 1/2 hp compressor motor sucking oil from one tank going throgh pump through pressure regulator into cf right befor entrance pressure gauge and out into drum ,what i have found is that i am not able to push more then 50 psi into cf with 6" pulley on motor and about 3.5" on pump with temp netural (70-90)or heated (120- 170) no change in pressure so i get a bigger pulley on the motor right make pump faster?or size down pump pulley or size down 1/4 orfice into cf that is not the problem thogh it is that the cf is not spining it is brand new and wont spin am i doing some thing wrong i even took the cap and rotor off turned on pump and 40psi at free flow out the threaded rod shaft inside the housing turn off pump put rototr onand yes the arrows do line up and the o ring is fitted snug and proper turn pump on againg and as i expected no rotation (i know that this could have been dangerous but i had a nut to stop the spinning bullet during test )so as far as i know it s not working no whin hmm or scream comeing from cf now the ps pump is all i here
siriusly ears right next too cf and nothing sutdown oil stops no sound

quote:

Originally posted by veggieguy:
I was planning on using sch 40 PVC to transfer cold oil from one barrel to another. NOT as part of the piping for the high pressure and high temperature CF fltering process. Will I be o.k.?

I would think it would be fine without heat or pressure, if you can get schedule 80 that would be better though. Would the braided hose work for that anyway?

Sam

quote:

have running off and on oil for the past couple weeks i have a dieselcraft centrifuge and the past two weeks been trying to figure out how to work this thing and i dont think its working ?

Hi Shaun,

I'm sorry I had a terrible time trying to follow what you wrote. But let's start with the basics. You need 120-180 degree F oil going to your DieselCraft at 80-90 psi. You might get some spinning at 40 psi, but not enought to hear it, but definitely not enough to clean your oil either, so until you get over 80 psi it isn't worth worrying about.

Let me try this; the oil coming from your pump should come to a "T", one side of the "T" should go to the DieselCraft in a 1/4 inch hose. The other side of the "T" should go back to your barrel, it is the relief valve and takes the oil that exceeds the capacity of the DieselCraft. Each side of the "T" has a valve so you can cut the flow on each side of the "T". Between that "T" and the pump you should have a pressure gauge.

Heat your oil to 140 degrees F, or greater. It is best to be either stirring it, or running it through your pump so the temp is even from the top to the bottom of the barrel. So, you would have the valve to your DieselCraft closed and your bypass valve fully open and circulate your oil while it heats up.

Now, you start out with both valves open, most of the flow should go through the bypass hose. You slowly close the valve to the bypass and cut your flow (pushing more through to the DieselCraft) until you see 80-90 psi on your pressure gauge.

Maybe the flow rate of you power steering pump isn't enough to do anything at above 40 psi?

Sam

Centrifuge subject.
I enclose a pic. of my centrifuge after 60 liter and 3 hours cleaning.
As you can see, there is som "dirt" near the nozzles of the CF. Is this normal?
Even inside the inner parts has dirt collected.

If the dirt comes down to the nozzles, isn't it a possibility that the dirt comes out with the oil and back to the drum?

P2040009.JPG (686 Kb, 118 downloads) dirt in the CF!

if you have 90 psi and 140-160 deg. temp. run for 1 hour clean cf and run for another hour I notice that it takes longer to get dirty

Hi Steve, i use the pressure and temp as you write, but I have run each batch (app 70 liter) for 2 to 3 hours. This time I run for 3 hours, cause a lot bigger particles was "hiding" at the bottom of the drum, so I rotated the oil manually to catch more from the bottom. I have leaned the drum, but i will try to lean it more to make the particles become sucked in.

Maybe later I will get welded a conical bottom on the drum....

I have tested to do as you wrote only once, I might do it again to see what it collect the second time.

Some engines become quieter on WVO others more noisy. Ours the latter. Why ?

cheers

quote:

Originally posted by steinar:
As you can see, there is som "dirt" near the nozzles of the CF. Is this normal?
Even inside the inner parts has dirt collected.

If the dirt comes down to the nozzles, isn't it a possibility that the dirt comes out with the oil and back to the drum?

Looks perfect normal Steinar, good job. Yes some dirt makes it through the jets, and gets taken out the next go round or after you've cleaned it and done another set of runs.

I usually run it for an hour or hour/half then clean the CF, then I go for a few hours before cleaning it again. After that I have a pretty good idea of just how long I want run it from then on.

Sam

quote:

Originally posted by steinar:
Hi Steve, i use the pressure and temp as you write, but I have run each batch (app 70 liter) for 2 to 3 hours. This time I run for 3 hours, cause a lot bigger particles was "hiding" at the bottom of the drum, so I rotated the oil manually to catch more from the bottom. I have leaned the drum, but i will try to lean it more to make the particles become sucked in.

Maybe later I will get welded a conical bottom on the drum....

I have tested to do as you wrote only once, I might do it again to see what it collect the second time.

Some engines become quieter on WVO others more noisy. Ours the latter. Why ?

cheers

I think it's a timing issue. I've read (and heard) that wvo burns slower than diesel. When I get the 7.3 IH motor running on wvo I'll check the timing with my timing light just to see if it shows up there. (My light works only on some diesels)

I've been doing some reading, if possible why not just get a 100psi pump at whatever GPM rating? From what i've seen most people have the plumbing splitting so excess from from the pump shoots back into the filtering/Dewatering barrel.

quote:

Originally posted by Spectre32:
I've been doing some reading, if possible why not just get a 100psi pump at whatever GPM rating? From what i've seen most people have the plumbing splitting so excess from from the pump shoots back into the filtering/Dewatering barrel.

In my case I had a pump given to me to experiment with and it puts out around 5-8 gpm. Besides hydro. pumps will build pressure until something blowes. You have to have a relief valve to keep it from blowing. Instead of letting it drain into the dewatering barrel you could tee it into the suction side of the pump, and just let it recirculate. The drawback of this is that it could overheat the pump.

Well I have no problm using a HF pump and getting about 65 psi from it whent he oil is heated, and then the only thing needed is to have a T after the pressure gague and have one going to the CF and one going into my barrel(both have valves on them of course to control flow). I rather spend 80 bucks then 270 to buy a 1/3 hp motor and a gear pump.

quote:

Originally posted by Spectre32:
Well I have no problm using a HF pump and getting about 65 psi from it whent he oil is heated...I rather spend 80 bucks then 270 to buy a 1/3 hp motor and a gear pump.

This is fine if you realize that the CF isn't spinning anywhere near optium at 65 psi, and may limit the micron size to the larger particles, and who knows what value of dewatering you would get. If you do some shopping around you should certainly be able to put together pumps and motors for well under $270. The first one I put together was about $70, the second probably closer to $100. I just got a higher capacity pump and a new motor that added to $130. Even the new pump I got from Grainger added with an ebay motor was under 200. So, how many tanks of fuel would save replacing with vegoil to save $270? ...And you get a long lasting gear pump with the proper PSI and flow rate.

Sam

quote:

Ben Howard RD
Member
Posted 08 June 2007 04:52 PM Hide Post
I would not use plastic anywhere on the system. Last night I had a vinyl braided hose that was rated at around 185 F and over 100 PSI rip right between the pump and the steel pipe that contains the heating element. I have 10 gallons of oil sitting on the floor of my workshop. I have had hot oil spray in my face from a weaker hose ripping as well. I have had hoses pop off spewing oil everywhere. I would go with as much black steel and brass as possible. At the most heat and psi intensive spots I'm going to use this extremely tuff radiator hose that costs 65 cents an inch. I'm only going to use 4 inches to attach a barb fitting to my 1987 acura integra steering pump ($27 junk yard) which is currently being powered by a 2.3hp 12amp Skill Saw that costs $30 - $38 bucks. I have a pressure regulator to make sure I don't kill the CF from this setup.

Thank you for the info on the plastic and the hose. I am pretty sure that would mean an instant divorce in my household.

The wife is not sold on the WVO idea.

Judge

quote:

Sam and Judge,

I was planning on using sch 40 PVC to transfer cold oil from one barrel to another. NOT as part of the piping for the high pressure and high temperature CF fltering process. Will I be o.k.?

Veggieguy

Sorry I haven't answered you. Too many kids and too many projects.

You should have no problems heat and pressure wise. PVC has limits as it is difficult to change your set up after it is completed.

Judge

quote:

Originally posted by Judge:
The wife is not sold on the WVO idea.

Judge

Now there is a subject I should know something about...the hard way.

Manage expections, so don't say you won't spill a drop, you will. Don't say it won't smell, it will, don't say you won't have to buy anything else or go back to the hardware store...you will. Don't say it will make her lose weight, or be more attactive it bed, it won't.

Do let her drive it a lot and remind her just how amazing it is that she is driving on vegoil. She'll mention it to other people and they will be so impressed that it will give her positive feedback.

Sam

quote:

Originally posted by Sam Crowe:

quote:

Originally posted by Spectre32:
Well I have no problm using a HF pump and getting about 65 psi from it whent he oil is heated...I rather spend 80 bucks then 270 to buy a 1/3 hp motor and a gear pump.

This is fine if you realize that the CF isn't spinning anywhere near optium at 65 psi, and may limit the micron size to the larger particles, and who knows what value of dewatering you would get. If you do some shopping around you should certainly be able to put together pumps and motors for well under $270. The first one I put together was about $70, the second probably closer to $100. I just got a higher capacity pump and a new motor that added to $130. Even the new pump I got from Grainger added with an ebay motor was under 200. So, how many tanks of fuel would save replacing with vegoil to save $270? ...And you get a long lasting gear pump with the proper PSI and flow rate.

Sam

What pump did you get from grainger?

quote:

Originally posted by Spectre32:
What pump did you get from grainger?

I got the Dayton 6NY86 for $166.50 for my new OC-50. I haven't set it all up yet, but hope to this coming weekend.

I bought a oberdorfer on ebay that just arrived today. It has slighter higher volume than the Dayton pump. While this new one looks unused, it does have a bent pedestal foot that is going to make it a challenge to properly mount.

Sam

Sun, et. al.:

I am beginning with an OC-50. (I am mist washing as necessary first.) My question: After using it to de-water and filer, is there a need to "polish" the oil by passing it through 1 micron sock filters? Or is this a waste of time as it is redundant? Thoughts?

Thanks in advance to all.