second battery

TRUCK_004.jpg (138 Kb, 83 downloads)

solar pannel on roof

TRUCK_005.jpg (143 Kb, 103 downloads)

a truck only a mother could love

TRUCK_006.jpg (138 Kb, 121 downloads)

Sam C.

Be careful. Us Plastics is one of the manufacturers that I contacted regarding the heat problem. The gal that answered the phone was not sure and I asked to talk to a Tech.

He told me that the safe temp. was 170 F. He also warned me about possible hot spots or heat layers that can develop in insulated drums that may occur in our type of application.

Maybe they have newer drums or maybe he was thinking that I was referring to one specific style of drum??

Reminds me that I was going to purchase a plastic safety mat for my still area!

Steve.Great pictures, I can relate as an owner of one of its ugly duckling siblings (87 f250). How big is your alternator? I put a 130 amp in mine to cover my 30 amp vegtherm mega and two more anticipated larger camper batteries.If those two batteries are stock starter batteries they won't last too long running a CF and that solar panel won't help much either, I'm afraid.I've been experimenting with one of the Acme CF's, but have been following this DC discussion.The DC motor is definitely more efficient, but you'll need much heavier gauge wire, if its very far from the battery.
I'll be using my camper 10gal waste tank for raw oil storage. Its ABS I think. Like you I'm thinking of extending my heater line to heat it.
The DC set up is sounding more amd more attractive. I'm only looking at processing 10-20 gal every other day, though, so my little Acme will probably be fine.
Mike

quote:

Originally posted by SteveBondy:
I ask many questions and I do not provide enough information, so I want to provide some more information on how I will be using my setup.

Steve,

I know that this is not exactly specific to this chain, but . . . What kind of heated filter is that pictured? Can you recommend it? With the CF filtered oil, about how many miles does it last?

Veggieguy remember this thread one page back http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/3921002102

I bought mine at svocomponents.com . I would recommend it if you have the space like me. Don’t know how many miles you could ride on one filter, but I'm sure more than any other filter. Filters are $20 a piece.

quote:

Many 110v motors will not work on inverters of any type. I believe only brush less motors will. Something about the conversion process from DC to AC creating a different wave that won't operate brushed motors. Most all motors are brushed?

I have never come across this the only problem with motors i have seen is big motors have big start up surge that many inverters cant handle..

I know brushed motors work on inverters.. all most all power tools i own have brushes and they all work.

As fr batteries , yeah you have a inverter at 1500 watts you better have a couple batteries, However i ran a desktop PC and 19" lcd monitor in my camper on that 1550watt inverter with two deep cycle marine type batteries and it lasts about 8-10 hours with out a recharge..

My setup was 1 battery for cranking an then the bank of two batteries fo rthe inverter that was isolated from the cranking battery.. works great you can discharge the inverter batteries but it wont discharge the cranking battery.

Unless you got a VW, and you have a diesel you better have a good battery or two anyways for cranking the motor in cold weather.

Jason

Well with my setup I wont be using battery power at all because I will keep my truck running during the whole process.

quote:

Originally posted by Judge:
Be careful. Us Plastics is one of the manufacturers that I contacted regarding the heat problem.

If I've been able to use polybarrels with no problem I expect these will do fine. The product info says "good for operating temperatures to 200 degrees F (water)." We'll see, those Totem containers didn't seem to have any problem up to 140 and I thought I'd see some sign before the leak, but I didn't. I'll certainly let everyone know if they don't work out.

They have so many tanks I suspect the tech guy you talked to was looking at a different one than the high temp tanks.

quote:

Reminds me that I was going to purchase a plastic safety mat for my still area!

Good idea, look at one of those hard plastic kiddy pools.

Sam

Do you think a power buffer with adjust able speed will work as a motor for the c20 use a power steering pump

Sam, Sun and the others, testdriving completed on our Fiat Ducato. Wrote an another tread here at the forum. Burned only 3 liter so far...hehe...but now all seems to work, oilfilter, HE, hoses, valves etc. Even my cheap car instrument shows 80 C now, so I guess temp on the oil is fine. Drove for short while with cold oil, nasty sound from the engine then...

I'll have two instruments, one for tank and one for temp. Red ligt= Diesel, green ligt= WVO.
No buzzer yet, guess I need to plan the connection of the cables to make that work..hehe..
SO TODAY I CELEBRATE WITH CHAMPAGNE!
CF cleaning works, Engine works, and so far all seems good! Cheers from SWEDEN!

Instrumenthouse_for_temp_and_tank.jpg (813 Kb, 70 downloads) Instument housing under test

folk this is a realll real real long but very good discussion on Dieselcraft CF.

Unfortunatley folk are starting to muddy the waters with stuff off topic and only barely on topic stuff. Please; for the sake of everyone esp. those searching the archives, consider deleting your off topic stuff and putting it in your own threads.

I think it is time to kill this thread and start a couple new threads, and leave this old one to the archives. They should organized in different categories like, one for general questions on how it works, one for mobile units, one for larger units, one so people can post there completed setups and debate on how much better theirs is than yours, (like me) etc. We should drop Dieselcraft in the title and instead put oil pressure powered centrifuges, because soon people will be using spinclean centrifuges to save a couple bucks, and don’t forget about spinner. How does that sound? I know it has been mentioned before, but now we are up to 3434 posts.

Yes I agree to your suggestion, lets get more detailed posts. I myself found it very exhausting reading this thread, especially when you want to learn about it all, afraid to miss some importance, we just go on and on reading...
Lets make more but shorter categories/threads.
Since I was talking about my rig with CF and finally coming to the end of my project, I put my posts here, but I am a alien, so I might make my own posts for Europe..

Who will be creating new threads?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by steinar:
I put my posts here, but I am a alien, so I might make my own posts for Europe.[QUOTE]

Hey, you're not an alien, you have more in common with us DieselCraft vegoil users than most of the rest of the world. This family is tied together by common interests, not common location.

Regarding the size of the thread. It is awfully long for someone to start from the beginning, but maybe that is the price of gaining from other experience. I hate to see this group splinter off, and I'd go through and cut all my posts to keep all the CF posts on one thread and keep from having to subscribe to several threads.

I really think that Sun's summary is a good way all the valuable information can be distilled from the thread, yet have the thread to generate the issues that may later update the summary.

Sam

Thanks Sam, nice words from you. The support I got from this loooong thread has been the most important for me the last 6 months. To be able to have success with this project was a great feeling.

And strange enough, I know only two people i Sweden, who has done the same as me...now I might start selling my knowledge and parts to others here ? But not to someone to close, I want to keep my sources for oil..hehe

I have a technical question today.
When heating up the filter and HE, they become warm, but not the oil in the hoses. Not until I open the valve and let the oil start flowing to the IP. At that moment cold oil will enter, until the warm oil from HE reach the IP. The hoses is about a couple of feet long from HE, 4 feet from the oilfilter.
Is this bad for the engine?

(I already spent money on buying 2 x T-ees + feederpump to circulate the oil from the valve back to the filter, before opening the valve.
This to really have hot oil from the very first drops.)

What's your comments, friends?

An important note to all that are attempting to use CPVC or PVC tubing in their system, don't.

I talked to the Tech, Brad, at Harvel, a manufacturer of pvc and cpvc. He stated that WVO slowly breaks down cpvc and that pvc has a maxium temp rating of 140 F or less depending on psi, size, schedule rating, etc.

I explained my CF System and he advised against the use of any plastic.

I told him that I would have max. temps/PSI of 200 F/100 PSI.

Judge

I would not use plastic anywhere on the system. Last night I had a vinyl braided hose that was rated at around 185 F and over 100 PSI rip right between the pump and the steel pipe that contains the heating element. I have 10 gallons of oil sitting on the floor of my workshop. I have had hot oil spray in my face from a weaker hose ripping as well. I have had hoses pop off spewing oil everywhere. I would go with as much black steel and brass as possible. At the most heat and psi intensive spots I'm going to use this extremely tuff radiator hose that costs 65 cents an inch. I'm only going to use 4 inches to attach a barb fitting to my 1987 acura integra steering pump ($27 junk yard) which is currently being powered by a 2.3hp 12amp Skill Saw that costs $30 - $38 bucks. I have a pressure regulator to make sure I don't kill the CF from this setup.

Michael

quote:

Originally posted by Judge:
An important note to all that are attempting to use CPVC or PVC tubing in their system, don't.

I've put the same warning out several times on this thread...learned the hard way. I've replaced just about everything with black steel, and have gone to high temp hose for my tubing.

Sam