My Rig
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvOgJSw90VI

Nice setup, good idea with the drill press, easy way to get the correct speed with your pulleys.

Jason

Hello Jason, thanks for your words.
Now to a question.
I cleaned ca.70 l for 2 hours yesterday. The cleaned oil was taken out of the drum from the bottom.
To my surprise I discover, when there is about a couple inches left with oil, that the bottom was full of dirt in a tin layer. So I am now afraid that some of this dirt came out to my containers as well (2gal + 4 gal plastic cont.) Today I ran the CF for more that half an hour with only the leftover oil in the drum. I rotated and shaked the drum frequently, but the dirt is still there.
Solution? Cone shaped bottom to let all sink down?
A rotor in the bottom of the drum driven by electric motor to keep the oil in movement?

The speed of the oil seems to slow to suck all dirt.

Now It seems like I have to return the oil in the drum, clean it again and mybe pump it out from the top instead of the bottom?
How r u guys doing it?

I often get some dirt on the bottom of the barrel, its the largest particles that drop out quickly when heated. To avoid them, I don't suck from the final 2 liters when transferring. Since they didn't get sucked into the CF in 5 passes, its not getting into my finished barrel either, its stuck to the bottom and only comes off when I wipe it with a rag. If you did suck some into your containers you would be able to see it easily since its the big particles they would settle out quickly.

A cone bottom tank would be the best. The next best is to tilt your barrel. Another option would be to heat in another barrel before putting in the CF, so the big stuff would settle there.

Thanks for the answer Sun. Good to know others experiences. I'll tilt the barrel som more next time. And I will try to suck directly from my 60 l drums where I have the oil stored for weeks after filtering through 100 micron filters.
I reduced the sound from the CF as well, using more rubber between the drum and bracket. Next will be insulation on the drum, to keep it warm.
An now my garage is clean and neat again :-)
Next week will be testing the oil in the diesel engine. Have a nice weekend all of you over there.

I would say a cone bottom would be best, I know US plastics has nice conical mix tanks.. i have one for my beer and wine making.. Kind of the same ituation the chunks settle out and you drain them off the bottom.. even with the low flow of the centrifuge itha steep cone at the bottom all the stuff will get through it

Pump from the bottom and put the cheaned oil on top.. thats what it naturally willdo with settling..

I dont think you could pound out a god enough cone on a drum to make it work well.. But those conical mix tanks are designed for this type of thing.

My tanks is 15 gallon but here is a bigger one:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5F...6&product%5Fid=30809

Gives you the general idea.

Jason

The trouble with those plastic tanks is temp, it says 120F constant, spikes to 140F max, and I run at 160F for hours at a time.

I’m sure someone else has though about it more than I, bit it seems like the simple solution to a conical shaped barrel bottom is to insert a cone versus try to reshape the factory bottom.

By the way, this has been an eye opening thread. I was looking all around for a pump/motor solution to feed a CF when the drill press cuaght my eye. I'm not going that direction, but it looks like a great solution if you have all of you gear in one garage.

Thanks folks for all of the effort.

Or you could do like I have on my boil barrel - put a standpipe and a drain in. The drain is straight out of the 2" bung. The standpipe is a pipe inserted into the 3/4" bung that rises 3 or 4 inches above the bottom of the barrel. If you put both those outlets onto a y connector (like a garden hose connector) you can then just chose which one you want to draw from.

I have the outlet of the pump that this is connected to on a y connector too. One output goes to waste, the other to filtering or the CF barrel.

Hope that makes sense. Don't make me break out the digital camera and subject you to my videos and pictures!

Yeah the plastic tanks don't take heat well but it gives you a good idea of what angle of a cone you need for all the sediment to flow out and into the CF. They did have ones rated for higher temps.. there just larger and more expensive.. but rated for 140.. instead of 120..

Im sure if you took a steel drum into to a welding shop or blacksmiths and a photo they could easily fab up a cone weld it on and add 4 legs of for you for pretty cheap, even if the cone isnt perfectly round (think hexagon or like multisided shape) it would not matter.. it's the steap angle and smooth transitions that matter..

Even if you had them make a tall square tank with a pyrimid shape at the bottom that would work..

Of cours eif you handy you could probably do this your self also.

Jason

I welded a 2" cap to the bottom of my barrel near the edge. Then welded a 3\4" nipple to this a 1/2" or so off the bottom of the cap. Tilt the barrel slightly in this direction and you have created a sump to suck from. Seems to work as my last batch was bone dry, but with the suction an inch from the bottom of a flat barrel, I was still getting bubbles in the pan test.

How clean is DieselCraft clean? Well apparently very clean. This photo is from my 1 micron filter I pump through from my storage tank into my truck. Perfectly clean, you can see the hydrogenated oil left behind, but not one bit of black deposit or polymerized oil after approximately 350 gallons of oil pumped through.



Sam

After 6000 miles on my truck, here is a perfectly clean vegoil fuel filter:



Sam

Sam you shoud post a picture of your self too. I would also like to see you Dieselcraft setup.

Nice one Sam, thanks for sharing the pics. I've wondered for a long time what my filters look like inside, but never figured out an easy way to cut the insides out. Didn't feel like holding the filter and putting the sawzall to it. How did you do it?

And aren't you heating your oil before it goes through your fuel filter (the first one with the hydrogenated oils)? My FPHE is before the filter, so I am thinking the PHO(Partially hydrogenated oils) are getting melted and let through. This is a good thing right?

Sam those pics are worth a thousand words.. thats the proof that the diesel craft is doing what we need.

Those filters look great, like new!

I was wondering if anybody has the part # for the 1 micron Goldenrod filter elements of the Baldwin copy?

Do those water resistant goldenrod filters really work well, Saw them at the store today there $10 each. I believe they were 10 micron.

But if they do work well this would be a way to tell if all the water is coming out in the CF.. run this and monitor for water in the bowl after so many miles. A pan test will prove a general idea but a true water blocking filter will tell over time if any is left in the oil.

But yes those filter look great.. I believe that 1 micron filter is for testing with 1 micron and see what shows up.. if that looks like tose above.. that would be so awsome!

Jason

Is there an "ideal" oil temperature for the setup to run to dewater and filter optimally? Looking through previous posts, it seems like 160 degrees is good. Am I on the right track here?

Thanks.