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Dieselcraft centrifuge works great -My filter and dewater rig|
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I setup my oc-20 centrifuge on top of an old electric 12 gal water heater, I heat the oil in the water heater to about 80c, the flash evaporation using the centrifuge works well until a point, and then I add compressed air(<5 psi, anything more and oil starts to overflow into the 55 gal barrel below) at the bottom of the heater which bubbles and takes water with it, this steam is then directed downward into my 55 gal barrel to help heat the next batch of oil. Being a water heater it's very well insulated.
Takes about 2 hrs until no more steam is released. I have taken it to 110c with no indication of steam even with air bubbling. I have not nor plan to run the centrifuge at 80c+, I do clean the centrifuge every 50 gallons or so. Most of the stuff is caught my mist washing. A bigger water heater would be nice, but this works okay for now. setup034.JPG (463 Kb, 142 downloads) Example |
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The pumps we use are OEM special application pumps so the specs are not readily available. :-)
Thanks |
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Has anyone found the perfect low cost gear pump set up yet? I need a closed coupled pump and motor for under $150.00
Ive searched and read most of this post. Thanks for all the good ideas and info. |
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So far, the power steering pump off a 93 Camaro V8 is working well. The motor is one of the Harbor Freight 1" water pumps that I cut off the impeller pump end because of a bad porous housing that I could not stop from leaking and attached a 1.5" pulley drilled out to 12mm. The belt is a small serpentine type belt that so far, is wearing great. I did take the high pressure pump outlet valve appart and drilled it out to open the passage and did something to the high pressure bypass valve but can't remember exactly what now. I'd have to open it all up again to remember. Sorry but it has been a good while since doing this.
As a side note, I ran some non filtered, non strained oil into the DC to see what it would catch during the 1st pass into my barrel and to see if the DC would plug up the spray nozels. Caught a ton of goo and maybe at the end, one or both nozels became restricted as the outlet was restricted and the pressure going into the DC climbed quite a bit. Ran 25 gallons into the drum before shutting it down to clean it out. Second cleaning was after 3 hours of running and ending temp of 195F into an open top barrel. Ran 2.5 hours through 1 Micron filter, no pressure resistance and No water!!! I've been chasing my tail trying to get the water out of my oil and this thing just works great. I don't want to steer anyone wrong. I tried several plumbing setups that all failed before going back to Sun's original picture with an open top barrel. I may try closing it off to see if it works any different with the higher oil temps but for the time being, I'm leaving it alone. I've attached a picture of my pump setup for those still thinking about how to set one up. I think my total setup would run $75.00 after buying everything. I had the pump laying around but can be obtained online for about $30.00 through Car-part dot com. Sorry, forgot to mention, I'm running an OC-20 Steve Pump_Pictures.jpg (92 Kb, 140 downloads) |
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Looks like a nice compact setup Steve. How long have you been running your power steering pump? Sam 2002 F250 Vegistroke now with the new V3 module! |
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I think I'm ready to toss my jean filter setup. This weekend I processed 90 gallons of oil that I settled a week, then a 100 micron barrel screen filter on top of the oil (larger container) and sucked the oil into my CF barrel (done in two loads).
I'd like to find a faster way draw oil through 100 microns, my pump draws faster than oil seeps into the 100 micron basin screen. But, things are coming together. But, for follow-up, my heater using an element in Crisco failed. I tried two elements and used my controller, first heating to 160 and the second time to 120. It started out as I had hoped, without stirring or causing a lot of currents. But, twice it heated the oil to the max, shut the heat off, then when the oil temp dropped to the minimum and the element came back, on it burned out. My guess is that in the lag time to bring the oil back up, the Crisco that the element sits in gets over heated for the element components. Otherwise, parts to build my new processor started arriving last week (new pump, high temp hose, new heating element). I'll even be home this week to work on it. Sam 2002 F250 Vegistroke now with the new V3 module! |
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Maybe someone has mentioned this before, but in thinking of making my own version, I was wondering if a motor and suntec pump from an older fuel oil furnace would work as I know that the one I have can put out 90psi on one of its lower settings. I know it handles oil very well too.
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No those won't work since they don't put out enough flow. They are made for 2-5gph instead of the 60gph needed. YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum 95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 Running on B100 and 2 tank WVO, 81 Mercedes 300D on V80/D20 blend Low fossil house- 100% solar/wind power, 90% solar heated. |
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Posted by Sam Crowe Sam look at the picture of my inline 100 micron screen canaster on page 61 picture 006. It works great for me unless you have some realy dirty oil. I have 2 in my setup, one at the top were I pump my oil in and one just before the pump so the Dieselcraft doesn't get anything that could get into the barrel or missed the first screen. |
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Thanks Steve, that is exactly what I need. The settled oil is pretty clean. Sam 2002 F250 Vegistroke now with the new V3 module! |
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Where did you buy this canister? |
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Could you give a manufacturer and model number please. That ebay sale is over and there is no more information available. |
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Posted by veggieguy You can buy them from TSC stores, Princess Auto and other farm supply and Irrigation supply stores. Good luck: Steve |
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Its a HM TDS-4 meter, still on ebay all the time for $21.99 including shipping. Current link. YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum 95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 Running on B100 and 2 tank WVO, 81 Mercedes 300D on V80/D20 blend Low fossil house- 100% solar/wind power, 90% solar heated. |
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To answer the question about how many gallons have run through the PS pump I posted above.
Hard to tell since it has circulated a bunch but I would bet 40 hours at least, maybe more. The nice thing about PS pumps is that they are designed to run in hot environments so pumping the 170-210F hot oil around should be no problem. I have experienced no problem yet. Steve |
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Had the oc50 running this weekend. I have issues with the psi spiking. Anyone else have this issue? I know it slowly climes as the oil heats, but even after compensating for that, I still get spikes. it likes to occasionally jump from 85 to 100+ .Not sure how to walk away from it, as it likes to climb, I have to babysit and control the psi. could this be the relief valve?
Sunwizard, I bought that TDS meter and received a 0.0 in all the oils i tested. Not sure how to use it correctly... What are you doing? SteveESP, that looks like a clean setup. |
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Steve this is an odd case, the pressure should decrease as the oil gets hotter, not the reverse. What kind of valve controls your bypass? Could it be slowly shutting off flow as the oil gets hotter? Sam 2002 F250 Vegistroke now with the new V3 module! |
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I get pressure spikes if I run cold VO <120F. It holds real steady after that as it rises to 160F. What temp are you running?
See Using total dissolved solids meter to test YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum 95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 Running on B100 and 2 tank WVO, 81 Mercedes 300D on V80/D20 blend Low fossil house- 100% solar/wind power, 90% solar heated. |
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Dieselcraft centrifuge works great -My filter and dewater rig