quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:

quote:

Originally posted by Ebacherville:
I found a great motor for us.... huge qty instock... we just need to figure if it has enough HP to work for us.. Oh and the price is right!

Here it is:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007052323245...786&catname=electric..

That motor is too small, you need at least 1/4 hp, ....

Here ya go same place 1/4hp motors AND 1/3 hp motors all with pretty damn good prices. Thanks Ebacherville for the source!!

You should find a pump first, that determines the type of motor you want. Close coupled is way different (and more compact) than one with shafts. Motors are cheap and easy to find, the pump is the expensive part by far ~$150 for a good gear pump. Do an advanced search on my name and gear pump within this thread and you will see many recommended links to motors and pumps. here at mcmaster is a 1/3hp motor all setup and close coupled with a gear pump about the right size, look at #4272K3 for $344. As always, buying it off the shelf is much more $ than scrounging around and junkyard and ebay.

Surplus center has a lot of motors. Be careful, very few (1-2) of those would be any good, most are 200-230v. Of the 110-115v, there is only 1 that is 1725rpm 1/3hp and it has no mounting base for $20.

Here is a better one with base for $24 buy-it-now:
ebay 1/4hp motor

or $28:ebay ge 1/4hp motor

and theres lots more there, often for much less than the buy-it-now ones.

I thought I would give a update on how things are going with my Dieselcraft setup. I have been using it for close to six months and It has made cleaning oil so much easier. I have had some issues, my junkyard Neon P.S. pump bit the dust as did my used electric motor that had been sitting on a shelf in Dad's garage for possibly 20 years. I bought a new motor and a new teel pump and things are working well. I also damaged the rotor with to much pressure (luckily I was able to use my Hyd. press and a socket to "reform the rotor"). As they say hind sight is 20/20, if I had it to do over I would have started with a new pump and a new motor, live and learn.
I pour my oil through a cloth material that is streched over a 30 gal. drum, this filters out any breading, french fries, etc. I then pump into a steel 55 gal. drum setup with the dieselcraft. The final stage is pumping through a filter housing and into my vehicle or into a drum for later use. I am filtering 25 gallons or so a week for two vehicles. I am extreemly happy with my current setup. Now I need to find a Diesel generator to convert and use to power the filter setup and possibly other things around the house.
Thanks for all the info the people of this forum provide.

Mike

Glad to hear its working good for you Mike, and thanks for the update. I have been wondering how its going since I know many people built their rigs and posted a few times right after they got it and then we haven't heard from them again.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
Here is a better one with base for $24 buy-it-now:
ebay 1/4hp motor

or $28:ebay ge 1/4hp motor

If I recall, (I'm back on the road so I can't check), and I'd think it would be true with other brand of pumps?... to get 80-90 psi it required at minimum a 1/3 hp pump at 1725 rpms. I have ended up buying all 1/2 hp motors. Could I have gotten away with 1/4 hp?

Sam

quote:

Originally posted by Mike0000:
I thought I would give a update on how things are going with my Dieselcraft setup.

Nice update Mike. It is good to hear everyone's experiences.

I'm also looking at adding a gen-set, maybe after a MB.

Sam

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
VO that smells that bad should probably be mistwashed.

I was thinking, next time I have some really nasty oil that I'm leaving to settle I'd pour a quart of Clorox bleach into it, since the smell is bacteria the chlorine should fix it, then evaporate or go out with the wash. I don’t see any reaction with Clorox and the oil, and it will be long gone before going through the pump or CF. Any thoughts?

Sam

I wouldn't do clorox since who knows what chemical reactions go on with that. And it puts out poisonous fumes. The CF works good to remove "vomit water" anyway by itself. A mistwash is extra insurance when using really nasty VO like that, it may not be needed, but who knows?

The safest would be to avoid "vomit VO" completely! I only ran 1 small batch of it just to see if the CF could do it, and it was harder to get all the suspended water out, took 8 passes.

quote:

Originally posted by Sam Crowe:
If I recall, (I'm back on the road so I can't check), and I'd think it would be true with other brand of pumps?... to get 80-90 psi it required at minimum a 1/3 hp pump at 1725 rpms. I have ended up buying all 1/2 hp motors. Could I gotten away with 1/4 hp?

Sam

The chart for my pump shows it needs 0.2hp at 90psi and 1gpm. 1/3hp is what mine is and its plenty to do 150psi and damage my rotor if I didn't already have the added flat washer and o-ring on top. 1/4hp might avoid that. If you had a larger gear pump it may need more, and it may not since then you bypass more flow. Bigger doesn't hurt since when run at lower loads it draws lower amps than rated.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
If you had a larger gear pump it may need more, and it may not since then you bypass more flow. Bigger doesn't hurt since when run at lower loads it draws lower amps than rated.

I bypass enough with the smaller Teel pump that it seems I could drive a OC-50 in that 1/2 hp motor...dang, and I have a new pump and motor coming.

Sam

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
I wouldn't do clorox since who knows what chemical reactions go on with that.

I don't know of any reaction, I'll keep working on it.

quote:

The CF works good to remove "vomit water" anyway by itself. A mistwash is extra insurance when using really nasty VO like that, it may not be needed, but who knows?

The safest would be to avoid "vomit VO" completely! I only ran 1 small batch of it just to see if the CF could do it, and it was harder to get all the suspended water out, took 8 passes.

All true. I'm trying to solve the problem of having to dispose of the smelling mistwash, or having the smelling oil settling and growing bacteria before I run it. I'm somewhat obligated to pick up all the oil/water in the barrels, so maybe I should find a way to detect the water level and try to divert the vomit water into another container at the pick-up site.

My lovely young, and occasionally patient bride, about crossed into the dark side when she smelled the mistwash water I drained next to the driveway a couple weeks ago, days before we were having the house appraised. The smell dissipated soon enough, but it was bad there for a day or two.

Sam

OK, nudge nudge accepted. My update.

I have a 55 gal drum I pour my oil into through window screen netting and old sheets. If it's bad oil (smelly, rotten) I heat it to 180 and then mist wash. The barrel has a standpipe and a drain right at the bottom, so I drain the water off, heat the oil up again and transfer it to my CF system.

Before I had the CF I used to boil the oil to get the water out. It seemed to clean it well too. But the CF seems to do all that, so I don't bother, although I really did like watching all that vapour come off the oil as it boiled. But I didn't like waiting for it to cool down to put through the bag filters and I didn't like the idea of all the energy it cost to boil it.

Now, with the oil in the CF, (I put it through a 25um bag filter that doesn't clog when going into the barrel, just to not clog the CF) I crank up the CF with the one heating element in the pipe to the CD (like Sunwiz) and let the thing do it's thang all day.

My thinking is that at around 14c an hour (that's one pass of a 55 gal drum) I don't mind leaving it going all day for a few extra cents and the extra security it provides. The temperature rises slowly, but usually ends around 160F.

I have a teel pump attached to a 1/2 hp washer motor by pulleys at a ratio of about 1.5:2 motor : pump and it does 80PSI which I figure is good enough (agree? Or is 90 PSI that much better? I can change the pulleys)

When the CF is done I pump the oil into my storage barrel through a 2um CAT filter. It's a really big one and so far I have done about 5 55 gal drums using the same filter, although after the first 3 barrels I have had to 'backwash' it to make it not block up. To me that says that the CF is not getting the particles from about 10 - 2 um out of the oil very well.

Oh yes, I let the CF dump into a 1um bag filter. I figure what the heck, I have it, may as well use it. I've washed it a few times already so it is probably not doing a great job, I doubt it is hurting anything.

So that's my setup. So far I have about 6000 miles on my fuel filter and no problems. I like it. Here in N florida I have been running 95% oil, 5% Kerosene for the past few 1000 miles and so far so good.



When I't

Thanks for the update Paul. 80psi is fine with running it longer as you are doing.

I did more searching for off the shelf pumps, here is a good one I found:
grainger close coupled pump $155 It already has an adjustable pressure relief built-in.

Add a motor like this one:
ebay 1/4hp motor 230v $13
with one of these couplers:
and you are all set with the simplest, most compact pump rig.

Or for one already assembled:
grainger motor/pump $280

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SunWizard:
I did more searching for off the shelf pumps, here is a good one I found:
grainger close coupled pump $155

Add a motor like this one:
ebay 1/4hp motor $13
with one of these couplers:
and you are all set with the simplest, most compact pump rig.

I like that setup, however, note the motor is 200/230 volts.

Sam

You're right, then use this one:
ebay 1/4hp $35
or this pair:
2 motors $75
Or one of many other that are on there every day, the motor is the cheap and easy to find part.

Note: if you start looking at carbonators, most of them are vane type pumps and are not as good for VO. Get a gear pump like I have linked above.

quote:

Originally posted by Paul Drayton:
OK, nudge nudge accepted. My update.

Hi Paul, thanks for the update.

Has anyone else had to wash all the screens to be sure the oil doesn't polymerize in the little holes?...I've found the hard way after letting a screen go between my bi-weekly collection.

quote:

When the CF is done I pump the oil into my storage barrel through a 2um CAT filter. It's a really big one and so far I have done about 5 55 gal drums using the same filter, although after the first 3 barrels I have had to 'backwash' it to make it not block up. To me that says that the CF is not getting the particles from about 10 - 2 um out of the oil very well.

Oh yes, I let the CF dump into a 1um bag filter. I figure what the heck, I have it, may as well use it.

So, after having your oil dump from the CF through a 1 micron bag filter several cycles, you still had it plug your 2 micron cat filter?

Does it overflow the 1 micron filter, or is it stretched?

Thanks,

Sam

SAm,

The 1um bag filter is nominal, and it's been washed a few times, so I don't think it's doing a great job. Actually, come to think of it, I have only used the 1um filter for the last cleaning I did. Before that it was a 5 um bag filter. So I can't really comment too well on how it is doing except that after using the 1um bag filter, the oil does start to plug the cat filter after about 40 gallons, so it's obviously not too hot.

I think I'm going to get another long 1um bag filter and use it and see what happens.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
Note: if you start looking at carbonators, most of them are vane type pumps and are not as good for VO. Get a gear pump like I have linked above.

Sun, would you mind being more specific about why they are not as good? Will it still work? I just bought a carbonator/1/4 coupled motor combo for $10.50 on ebay. Will this work? Here is a picture:

b4e3_1.jpg (17 Kb, 79 downloads) westing house Thermoguard, 1/4 hp 115 volts 5.2 amp ac motor with Chudnow Carbonator Pump

quote:

Originally posted by Paul Drayton:
SAm,

The 1um bag filter is nominal, and it's been washed a few times, so I don't think it's doing a great job. Actually, come to think of it, I have only used the 1um filter for the last cleaning I did. Before that it was a 5 um bag filter. So I can't really comment too well on how it is doing except that after using the 1um bag filter, the oil does start to plug the cat filter after about 40 gallons, so it's obviously not too hot.

I think I'm going to get another long 1um bag filter and use it and see what happens.

What got me worrying about this is the possiblity that running the oil through the CF as much as I do, and you apparently do, might be increasing speed of polymerization. I should note, that I haven't had a problem with it, nor found it in my vehicle filters, but I have found oil polymized on the side of my CF barrel etc. If you ran you oil through a 1 micron in the CF barrel, and then it later plugs a 2 micron, it was a concern, so I had to ask.

Paul, when you come up to Jellystone to get out of the Florida heat <g> you'll have to stop by for some oil.

Sam

quote:

Originally posted by Ben Howard RD:

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
Note: if you start looking at carbonators, most of them are vane type pumps and are not as good for VO. Get a gear pump like I have linked above.

Sun, would you mind being more specific about why they are not as good? Will it still work? I just bought a carbonator/1/4 coupled motor combo for $10.50 on ebay. Will this work? Here is a picture:

It should work, but vane pumps are the same design as most power steering pumps which several on here have reported problems with the VO making the vanes stick after a while and quit working unless they dissassemble them and free the vanes. This is probably due to polymerization on the vanes.

That pic looks like a vane pump, at least you got a good deal and could switch to a gear pump if it sticks too much.