The mechanism that takes out the acids,salts, etc. is centrifugal force. It stays in the rotor along with most of the water. This is why I capture the output at shutdown so that doesn't dump into my clean VO.

this might have been mentioned but have you thought of adding a funnel to the bottom of the drum

like this funnel

and these legs

might not make much difference but a think a coned bottom would draw the oil through better instead of some sitting in a corner of the drum

again it might have been mentioned but i got all them parts on the way should arrive today ill post my results in a few weeks

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
The mechanism that takes out the acids,salts, etc. is centrifugal force. It stays in the rotor along with most of the water. This is why I capture the output at shutdown so that doesn't dump into my clean VO.

Sun,
IF the CF takes out the acids, salts etc, do you do any mist washing? I thought that was what the mistwashing was for, primarily.
Thanks for all your hard work and willingness to share this info with all of us.
Phil

AS Sunwiz has said a few times, in previous tests with mistwashing, there has been no advantage in doing mistwashing when using the CF, except for one batch which smelt like vinegar.

See the TDS threads for info on mistwashing.

At least that's what I distilled from the posts.

quote:

Originally posted by Chariotdriver:
... I thought that was what the mistwashing was for, primarily.... Phil

Mistwashing is one method... all that stuff is already in the water and other contaminants that is in the oil. Adding more water via mistwashing just encourages the existing stuff to fall out. The CF does the same thing. It encourages the existing stuff to fall out.

Doing both would seem to be a benefit but so far Sun says he has not found that to be the case

No I don't mistwash all batches anymore, but I test each batch with a TDS meter. Do an advanced search on my name and mistwash for lots of info in this and other threads.

I play in a band and am looking for the ultimate on the road setup. With this system is it necessary to dewater before centrifuging? I won't have time nor resources to mist wash the oil. I drive all day and play all night. I would like my rig to be as hands free as possible. Does anyone have any suggestions?
thanks,
Matt

quote:

Originally posted by doawaywithme:
With this system is it necessary to dewater before centrifuging?

If you collected some water it would be better to drain it off the bottom, but the centrifuge does the dewatering.

quote:

I won't have time nor resources to mist wash the oil. I drive all day and play all night. I would like my rig to be as hands free as possible. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I have a suggestion, you won't like it. But you should seriously think about if you are cut out for this, and stay with gas or diesel...or if you have a converted vehicle you should buy SVO at Costco. The time you won't have to spend fooling with WVO you can sleep!

Ok, another suggestion, change your nick.

I suspect you are young and have a long road of life in front of you. Good choices early on can make a large difference later on. WVO may not be in your cards until your life/career become established. And, regarding your nick, you should want the people that have put a lot of time, money and effort into moving this technology forward to take you serious.

Sam

The CF removes water for me, and is the ultimate on-the-road rig I have heard of. I drain off free water before CF, and don't suck from the bottom 6" of barrels. Most of my posts to this thread are ways to make it as hands free as possible. I suggest you read the summary at the top of page 1, then as much of the rest of the thread as you can handle.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:

quote:

Originally posted by SteveBondy:
I didn't say only one pass, but passes without contamination, in return would result in less passes.

I have run my rig going from 1 barrel to another, and it didn't lower the number of passes. It did make the 4 passes take much longer since I needed to babysit the rig to shut it off each time it ran out, and clean the rotor at each shutdown. And then pump it all back into the 1st barrel to start the next pass.

A few pages back in this thread we discussed this subject since I at one time got to thinking I could get much cleaner oiler by passing oil between tanks, each pass without contamination. I though if you get clean oil by cycling the oil around within the same barrel, you should get really clean oil by not mixing it. However, it didn't turn out that way in my tests. My theory is; as the particles in the oil decrease in size there is a smaller percentage removed during any pass, probably in a parallel scale from between particle size and percent removal. So for example, 90% of the 50 micron particle size would be removed during any one pass, so after a few passes all are taken out, but particles below 10 micron, 5% and less depending on size, is removed during any one pass, and so 95% escape the centrifuge, the next round then removes 5% of that 95% that was left during the previous pass.

The results of my tests got me back to doing single tank cycling and not having all the hands on time for such little time gained in getting clean oil.

Sam

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SunWizard:
The CF removes water for me, and is the ultimate on-the-road rig I have heard of./QUOTE]

I had to smile, Sun understates this. I don't know about the on-the-road requirements someone might have, I suspect it would be the best. But, one thing for certain, it is the ultimate dewatering/filtering rig in use.

Sam

OK I think this thread proves it works an works well, now what we need is a shopping list... AKA go to the junk yard and get this stearing pump and then go to this surplus place and get this motor and then get this pipe etc..

I think if we want to really make this the ultimate filter setup we have to make it easy and fool proof.

I'll help out if people give me info on what we need, like what HP and speed motor me need, Ill start there and find the lowest cost motor to fit the need, that is readily avalable in qty so others can replicate it.

Jason

.
Hello Everyone

Just wanted to tell everyone that my centrifuge setup is still working well.

Thanks again
RichC
.

I found a great motor for us if its powerfull enough.. I assumes we needed a clockwse motor..

This one has a switch right on it and prewired cord.. huge qty instock for all of us.. we just need to figure out if it has enough HP to work for us.. Oh and the price is right!

Here it is:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007052323245...786&catname=electric

Now we need a cheap pump thats standard and easy to get anywhere.

any one have any ideas?

Jason

quote:

Originally posted by Ebacherville:
OK I think this thread proves it works an works well, now what we need is a shopping list... AKA go to the junk yard and get this stearing pump and then go to this surplus place and get this motor and then get this pipe etc..

There is a parts list on my summary link at the top of page 1.

Thanks RichC for the check in. I was wondering what happened to the rest of you. I thought it was just Sam and I that have been hassling Sun for the last couple weeks. When I don't see anyone asking anymore questions I wonder if it is working for them, or they just gave up... Is it working for anyone else? Well it is working for me... I am finding that the dieselcraft does do wonders, but still takes allot of training on my part to make it do the wonders. For instance, I just filled up my centrifuge barrel with some really white emulsified oil. I decided to heat and settle it for a day before I ran it through my Dieselcraft... Well I'm glad I did that because there was a pile of water in it. I wasn't sure it was water when I first drained it, it was runny, but looked like oil. So I put it on the hot pan for a while and it all disappeared. Live in learn, that could have been allot of rotor cleaning and heating that I would discourage me. RichC (or the others) what did you lean? Would you choose a bigger centrifuge next time? A different pump? Plumbing? Heating method?

Thanks for the info on the mist washing, I must have missed that down the line somehow.
Has anyone ever used one of those 265 gallon totes that are made out of plastic for CFing?
I'm wondering how the plastic would take the heat required to process the WVO.
I bought the middle size DieselCraft setup with pump and motor and am just about ready to get working on it.

I pumped in some of the worst oil I ever have seen into my centrifuge two days ago. This oil was sitting in the back behind my garage for about a year. While pumping I had to clean out my 100 mesh pre filter about 10 times, normally I would have to do this once. About half the oil was almost white suspended with water. I decided to do a heat and settle first. Well it sure was a great idea that I did that, because I ended up taking about 5, ten liter pails of water from the bottom this morning, that dropped the barrel about 6 inches down. The smell of the water was making me sick and I didn’t have breakfast yet, so it made my stomach twist. Now I have some decent looking oil, but could be allot better, but smells alright. Is there another step I should take before centrifuging?

I am thinking on making some modifications to my Dieselcraft. The first one is some vent holes. I want to drill some small holes in the top of the rotor casing, about an inch down, right before the ridge. I think that the escaping steam would be released better if there was proper ventilation. Steam that travels down could condense on the casing (especially in the winter) causing water to be sent back into the clean oil, contaminating it. Another reason is to make it a mobile rig. On my mobile rig, I do not want any open holes anywhere. I would have to cap off the bottom of the Dieselcraft and reroute it into a ¼ inch pipe that could be sent to my drum. With this closed setup I would have to make vent holes for escaping steam. Has anybody tried this?

VO that smells that bad should probably be mistwashed.

I think vent holes are a bad idea, since VO mist will spray out of them. There is high speed VO flying around inside the lid. Water is captured in the rotor, so you don't need them.

For a mobile rig I have the bottom threaded into a barrel (no air) and its still removing water fine.

quote:

Originally posted by Ebacherville:
I found a great motor for us if its powerfull enough.. I assumes we needed a clockwse motor..

This one has a switch right on it and prewired cord.. huge qty instock for all of us.. we just need to figure out if it has enough HP to work for us.. Oh and the price is right!

Here it is:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007052323245...786&catname=electric

Now we need a cheap pump thats standard and easy to get anywhere.

any one have any ideas?

Jason

That motor is too small, you need at least 1/4 hp, which you can always find on ebay for $10.