quote:

Originally posted by RichC:

The motors I talked about from the source on eBay (pac-h2o@usa.net) have the close coupling shaft.
You would need to fabricate some sort of connection to a Dodge Neon power steering pump.
The motor is intended for close coupled pumps.
And does not have a shaft that extends out of the motor housing.
A motor that did have an external shaft may be easier to mate to a power steering pump.

The motor I have revolves 1,750 time a minute.
I do not know if this would work for the Dodge Neon power steering pump.

THanks,
Does the motor you got have a model number to ask for? And it really is only $20?

A close coupled motor will not work with your PS pump. It only works with gear pumps designed for close coupling. Motors are cheap, gear pumps are more.

There are lots of ones that would work on ebay for about $10, like this 1725rpm 1/3hp motor

I understand that that motor won't work with the Dodge Neon pump.

I don't have any pumps or motors yet - I'm trying to figure out the best way to go. I was thinking that this motor like RichC has with a Teel Pump dirctly hooked up (like he has in the pic) is the best way to go. I wouldn't have to bother with a belt (as space is an issue for me) and it looks like the motor and pump would be around $100?

But, I haven't found a source (other than ebay) that gives me a price on a new Teel pump. Is it in Grainger? I couldn't find it? Also, someone mentioned model #8TZ60 but couldn't find this model anywhere. Is there another model that would work?

I know there is already a lot of info on this thread about pumps, but I find myself confused. Sorry about the trouble.

Yes there are hundreds of models of gear pumps that will work. Grainger has lots of them. You need to look at the specs on them, its generally the smallest ones. You should find a pump first, then get a motor that works with it. I found my motor with gear pump attached for $23 on ebay. New Gear pumps with no motor are around $150. Here is the same pump I have, for sale on ebay new for $150: oberdorfer 991 gear pump Then you can get a motor for about $20, and you need a coupling which grainger has.

Or I posted back on page 15 here at mcmaster is a 1/3hp motor all setup and coupled with a gear pump about the right size, look at #4272K3 for $344. No assembly required. Mcmaster also sells the gear pumps without the motor and coupling.

Or, for $0, if you're so inclined, you can get a motor from the back of Sears or your local friendly scrap yard/recycling yard. Grab a motor out of a washing machine or a a/c unit. Lots to go around. Plenty, believe me - I had to leave some behind and it stung my mingy soul.

Has anyone tried cleaning Used Motor Oil through one of these setups? I was just talking to a fellow who said his company used a commercial shaft-driven centrifuge to clean there engine lube oil and ALL the black color (soot) was removed to the point that the oil came out looking like new.

I think that that is what it was originally intended for

Yes, but how well does it actually clean lube oil in a stand alone setup, it would be nice if it could be used for the double duty of cleaning fuel AND lube oil, my cummins uses 12 quarts of lube oil at a whack, the price of this oil goes up even faster than fuel, would be nice to simply clean the soot out of the lube oil and add a bit of additive.

I bought a Frantz filter with the idea of using it as an engine oil bypass filter.

In my research and reading I found out from a good source that the blackness in the oil is not entirely soot - it is the additives - they turn black when they are heated. That's why your oil goes black in a few miles.

If all that black was soot, you'd be in trouble.

The oil in my gasoline car doesn't turn black after 7500 miles, its still a nice amber.

It would clean your lube oil in a stand alone setup. When I talked to Dieselcraft they said they were considering selling a standalone unit. The rig you would need is exactly the same, it needs to be heated then run multi-pass. The question is how many passes to run?

If you did this you should run synthetic oil since it holds up to longer use than conventional. And get the oil tested after long use to see how the additives are holding up. This is one reason why most motor oil tests include a figure for additive condition (called the TBN number).

Sunwiz, do you have a name or company of where to get a used oil analysis? I spent some time trying to find someone and they never got back to me - some guy from Mobil.

If you mean engine oil analysis, here are some popular labs:
blackstone-labs.com

oilguard.com

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Hello Everyone

I am trying to redo my system to have the bypass valve lower than the centrifuge to solve an air problem.
And I started thinking about some minor pressure vibrations my system has.

Would it also be better to have the bypass valve out of the main flow of oil?

I know that a gauge in the path of flow is more likely to be inaccurate, and bounce back and forth between a higher and lower number.

But what about a bypass valve?

The bypass valve, and the gauge, work on the same principal of using a spring against the resistance of whatever is pressurized.

Would the flow of oil to the centrifuge be more stable with the bypass out of the direct flow path, but still in contact with it?

Thank You for the help.
RichC

Yes thats worth a try. It could also be due to the design of the pressure regulator you are using. How much pressure variation are you seeing?

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Hello SunWizard

I am getting maybe 1 to 2 PSI of variation.

The main thing I do not like is the noise it causes in the system.
It seems like there is a quick pulse variation somewhere also.
I thought this might lead to early wear and destruction of parts.

Plus I am a little weird about noise.
I like things to be quiet.

My pressure gauge can be filled with glycerin.
Maybe I should fill it, but I do not have a clue where to get the glycerin.
Do you know of a source?

Thank You
Until next time I bid you peace, and happiness.
RichC

SunWizard:

any time to take and post a pic of your dieselcraft CF/oberdorfer pump configuration?

I have posted many pics in this thread, see page 1 and page 7. Nothing has changed with the way its setup, when I changed to the new pump. Here is the pump:

I don't know a source for glycerin, but here is the glycerin filled guage I am using:
www.grainger.com #5WZ34, $8.58

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Hello All

I must have been misspelling glycerin or something.
I typed it in again at Graingers keyword search, and there it was.


Thanks
Have Fun
RichC