Hey Guys,

you are right sunwizard about the VW on filtering. I have the PD (pumpe Duse) and according to all the naysayers I,m crazy.
Well maybe I am but they have a little purple pill for that now along with RLS (restless leg syndrome)

I have talked with Elsbett rep in Ireland and he said they do these systems and the main ingrediants are filtration and temps when running. Of course they tweak their system a bit more with ECU adjustment but thats the basic premise.
Quick question On onboard filtration......
I have the Vegtherm inline electric heater to get that extra boost. Now I have read about crud getting baked onto these (internals) and on occasion a little piece coming free and causing havoc unless you have a final filter after the heater.
I,m looking at this Final inline Filter

What do you guys use? The stock fuel filter, VW at least the replacement filter from Wicks lists 23 micron.

Hey Sam,
Do the jets have to be facing any particular direction, Just wondering?
I may have been confused, after the "Jet Blue Fiasco"


Chris

Man, that looks like a cool filter! I want one.

I'm tired of replacing my spin on filter in the Merc when I test things out and they don't work too well. Any idea if that thing will work on a mercedes 240D? I doubt it has the filtering requirements of a newer VW. I'm assuming (yes, I know) it could go in place of the small prefilter on the mercedes and get the hot oil after the FPHE.

I love that it is cleanable. I wonder how well that works though.

(EDIT)- I see it has rubber o-rings. That's not a good thing for those of use who use Biodiesel every now and then is it?

Hey Paul,

This is too small for primary filter...this would be used as auxillary filter after vegtherm or whatever electrical heating device you would use. Safety backup as per above.

I believe someone was selling a stainless steel washable (dah) filter designed for the Mercedes. I saw them on ebay a while back. Do a serch maybe you can find one.

OOPs this thread getting sidlined, hope I don't get lambasted.
Chris

quote:

Originally posted by biomyride:
This baby works great attached to 1725 rpm motor and 5 inch pulley.

Biomyride,

I was just wondering how big is the pulley on your motor?

I received my gear pump (Oberdorfer 1000S-3) today and will be driving it also with a 1725 rpm motor.

Pulleys, pressure relief valve and pressure gauge and I'll be ready to start plumbing.

quote:

Originally posted by biomyride:
I believe someone was selling a stainless steel washable (dah) filter designed for the Mercedes. I saw them on ebay a while back. Do a serch maybe you can find one.

Redline has cleanable filters: http://www.redlinepumps.com/cleanablefilters.html

Sam

Biowell,
the pulley I used is a 5 inch on the pump and 1 3/4 on the motor.
Smaller on the motor and larger on the pump reduces speed.

Paul, this was the filter I was thinking of stainless filter for Mercedes

Sam, I may check that 10 micron out at redline pumps. Whats the diameter I wonder? If it fits inside the greasecar heated coil may be an option. They use the Fleetguard FF-5156 filter.

Chris

$125 buys a lot of wix filters. I haven't had problems with wvo swelling shut my filter element. I do think a cleanable filter would be cool, but if you filter good befor the car, thats where a reusable filter should be. I'd leave the vehicle unit alone, and find a large reuseable one for the garage. bluejeans are reusable, but suck to clean.

Ideally, if you had one of those units, youd want an extra elemnet to carry along, so youre not on the side of the road with a can of windex trying to clean out you overpriced undersized gadget.

quote:

Ideally, if you had one of those units, youd want an extra elemnet to carry along, so youre not on the side of the road with a can of windex trying to clean out you overpriced undersized gadget.

Mobetta, I detect an air of "what are you kidding me, that little thing"

Again this not a primary filter,Inline stainless filter merely a safety as last line of defense should some piece of crud break loose after vegtherm electric inline heater. Just asking what if anything you guys are using for this application?



Unlike you I dont have the luxury of pulling an injector, as mine are burried under the head.
(Pump Duse)VW. But you are correct, it would be a ***** stuck on the side of the road trying to clean this. A spare element would be a neccesity.
I jus got this Final filtering Polish
and going to pump through 0.5 micron. Should do the trick.

Chris

Could someone please list or post a pic of the pressure regulator from Lowes that people are using. The only ones I am finding are the pressur regulators for hot water heaters that have the spring loaded lever valve. Thanks, that the only component I am not quite sure on.

www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/bd/centrifuge.htm

has a picture of it - not a good picture, but it will give you an idea. Look at the second picture, and the video is probably even better.

It's in the section with all the well equipment at lowes. If you don't have people on well water where you are that might by why lowes doesn't stock it. If there is no well pump area, maybe that lowes doesn't have it. Try Ace, they often have the more esoteric stuff.

tdfcruiser,

What I'm seeing in Paul's picture is a pressure gauge not a pressure regulator. I may be missing something, and if I am I'm, sorry for any confusion.

The pressure regulator that has been recommended and is the cheapest is at Grainger's ($4.46) and McMaster-Carr ($3.81).

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611785282

http://www.mcmaster.com/ part number 50265K23

Whoops!!!
I should of looked at the video before I posted. There's a good picture of the pressure relief valve in the video.

Sorry I should have said that I looked at the video and stills but can't make out what the pressure regulator looks like. Could you take a better picture or possibly look for a number on the unit. There are definitely alot of people on well water here in Tucson. Does the grainger valve have a provision to route the excess oil back to the tank?

No the grainger valve doesn't. I put it in the barrel just before the CF, and put a tight fitting plastic elbow over it to direct the flow down.

Have put one of these together and am enjoying it. Thanks to all who have been so giving of their knowledge and experiences. It is a true gift to the community.

Right now I'm not recirculating back into the supply and am finding that with my oil, I can pass the pan test with two passes (filtering drum to drum) at 135f+ @ 90psi while catching the outfall at shut down. Have filtered over 200 gallons like this.

Am planning on speeding up the process by adding another centrifuge in series so that a first drum is for preheating. It's also the supply drum for the first centrifuge. The first centrifuge will spill into the supply for the next centrifuge, which will spill into a final collection drum for cooling, and then transferred into a tote. Each centrifuge will have its own pump, but I'm hoping to be able to use one motor (1725 1/3hp). I've been having good luck with a Dodge Neon power steering pump and was thinking of getting another one as it would bolt right onto the frame I fabbed for the first pump, perfectly inline with the existing pulleys and belts. I'd just need to add the right sized belt to get it going.

Only problem I had with it was when I wasn't prefiltering into the supply drum. Sucked some hard food beads(?) into the pump while running the centrifuge. So, I pulled it a part, cleaned it out, and slapped 'er back together. Runs great. Super quite too. After that I use a 150 micron suction screen to transfer into the supply drum. I also noticed that the pressure isn't spiking due to clogged jets any more as a result of using the suction screens to pre-prefilter.

Although my pressure is pretty consistent (90psi with a bypass to the supply drum), I haven't had much luck with being able to dial the cheaper Grainger pressure relief valve in when I needed it. I'd like it to blow at around 95psi but it stays closed till 120psi. Turning it down makes it blow way too low. I know I have the right spring in there. Any advice?

One more question...I have a pressure gauge plumbed in in a similar way to SunWizard's in his pics (T-ed in at the supply to the black steel heating tube just before) and am wondering if the gauge would be reading lower there than if plumbed in closer to the main stream (if you will) and the centrifuge itself and if so, is there a way calculate the variance in actual pressure v.s. what's showing on the gauge.

Oh ya, any one else losing the coating on the inside of the rotor cover?

Wow this thread's long

Was thinking about testing these ideas for a more versital CF pump motor...

Router Motor #1
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47937

Router Motor #2
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43585

Router Speed Controller...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060

Any thoughts???

Oops, my bad, jumped the gun thinking a router motor would work ... just noticed the RPM min/max ratings are likley way too much for a pump, much less the DC CF - Hmmm... me thinks the router/motor speed controller could still play a part in my design!?

August,

Be careful with using over 90PSI with the centrifuge - there are pics here of guys who have deformed the rotor and had to pay about $90 to get a replacement.

I guess I'll have to get a picture and item number for the pressure relief valve I got from Lowes - it works great and has plumbing fittings so you can have no funkiness and leaks. There is a crappy video of it link in my previous post.

I'm going to a junk yard this weekend and am going to look for a 1980s acura integra PS pump. Apparently it is a gear pump, so it will be quiet and not have vanes sticking. My Teel pump is still working fine, but I don't trust it's longevity.

[Edit: FYI: It looks like the power steering pump from Acura Integras from 1986-1996 are identical, and til 1999 they are almost identical]

AugustIII, you are right that the rotary gear pump needs a pre-screen. However, a 150 micron is way more than the pump needs and you'll be cleaning out that filter pretty regularly.

You only need to protect the gears.... and 85 lines per inch is sufficient for most rotary gear pumps. Let the centrifugal filter catch the rest... that's its job.

Todd

From Paul D.

quote:

I'm going to a junk yard this weekend and am going to look for a 1980s acura integra PS pump. Apparently it is a gear pump, so it will be quiet and not have vanes sticking. My Teel pump is still working fine, but I don't trust it's longevity.

Been thinking bout that gear pump much the same. If you locate one and add it to your setup, it'd be great to here the results - Even better to see it in another video Best of luck to ya tracking one down!