1. no since the black goo is packed to the inside of the rotor and won't dissolve easily.
2. No cleaning mode.
3. None that I have seen but you could get a common gear pump and hook it to a DC motor. 1/3hp DC motors are much more expensive than AC ones.

Sunwizard,
Let me explain my question better for #2
I remember reading where it is thought that the water in the WVO is being "exploded/turned to steam" when it leaves the rotor orfice, paraphrasing here, work with me, and I thought that if there were a way to have a flow of air across/through the chamber, while the DC/CF is working it may help remove any moisture from the mix.
That's what I meant when I mentioned cleaning mode.
The reason for the DC motor question was for an idea about "on the road" cleaning.
Just wanted to calrify those questions to let you know where I was coming from.
Thanks for the info,..
Phil

You can make a flow of air across the outlet of the CF which helps with dewatering. Thats why I use an open top barrel, it gives me plenty of flow with no fan. Or you could use a large cross fitting with air blowing across it.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
Air would be visible even before heating. If the bubbles appear only after heating, they are water turned to steam. You might also want to search for the pan test directions in this thread and many others, it would give better results than the way are doing it.

quote:

As it turned out, it was water. I did the pan test after it the oil didn't settle for 3 days and did it again after I dewatered today. Still, I managed to screw up today, but I have finally finished that batch and put in my truck.

That sounds like some scary VO, what did it smell like?

quote:

Real strong soy sauce it the closed thing I can come to. Whatever it was I managed to clean it out but it has been a long process.

What temp and pressure are you running the CF? That seems long since I have done every batch in about 4 hours. How long did you settle the water after the mistwash and what temp was the VO when you mistwashed?

And that wasn't the end of it! The oil is running at 150-160 degrees F and 85 psi. I ran it 4 hours today continious loop, then cleaned the CF. I then ran it again without letting it mix, there was still enough black goop to stain a paper towel, so I ran it one more time, this time it was pretty clean, with only a very small amount of goop. There was no water in those last two runs and it pan tested without any bubbles. Sun, after running for 4 hours you can clean your DieselCraft and run it and there won't be anymore deposits? Or am I being too anal about it?

I started mistwashing when the oil was about 150 degrees, my mistake at that time was not giving enough settling time before running it through the CF. And the oil still had water in suspension after three days of sitting.

I did put in my pipe drains today that cuts down a lot of time and mess since I don't have to disconnect any tubes.

But let me add to my list of screwups so someone else might avoid the same. First a simple one. I had this cute idea, I'd make foamboard boat so my thermometer could float in the oil with its probe below. Just so you know, foamboard dissolves in oil.

Second...Since this batch of oil had a long swing in the CF earlier in the week, and since I had heated it to 230 F and left it for a couple hours, and drained the bottom, I was pretty confident that all the oil in the barrel was pretty uniform. So while CFing into another barrel I tilted the original barrel to get the most out of it. In doing that I disturbed an incredible amount of off colored stuff, which included an amazing amount of water, there was even half-dollar size globs of water at the bottom of the barrel, go figure. But of course, some of this got sucked up went through the CF and ended going into my relatively clean oil. The CF did stop a lot of water, but I'm sure not all.

Sam

I think you are running too long trying to get every last bit. I run until there is a big decline in the amount it removes, which is after 4 pass - 4 hours for me. If I run another pass it will get more, much more than enough to stain a towel, I usually get about a 1/2" to 1" thick layer of goo, and I stop when the layer is less than 1/8". And I haven't clogged my truck filter after 5000 miles of this VO.

If you still had some water to remove, then running it longer was probably worth it. Settling overnight after a mistwash seems to be enough for me, the CF removes the rest.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
I think you are running too long trying to get every last bit...

Thanks SunWizard, that answered my question.

Sam

ok i tried to scan all these pages but still couldnt find a good answer whats the best pump for the price for this? exept any pump at cant withstand 200 degrees

A gear pump like this one on ebay is the best. Cheapest is a power steering pump, but they don't last as long and the vanes can get stuck. You can find power steering pumps that are gear pumps, such as old acuras. The "best" depends on whether you want a cheap pump with some scrounging or an off the shelf pump/motor combo for about $230.

I am just getting ready to purchase a used dieselcraft or spinner II I dont know which because I have a relative that is going to pick it up for me. I found a truck salvage yard with a few of these undamaged units in them, would anyone be intrested in some? Is one better then the other looking at the specs they look like copies of each other, but you know how looks can be. I told my relative what I was willing to give for the filter and he is going to "work" on getting a better deal. I told him 150 MAX. What is the concensis on what these are worth, maybe I told him too high a number?

Hi
Don't know where you are, but, I would take 2 maybe 3, depending on price. Prefer Dieselcraft ???

I would also be interested in a diesel craft if there are more available. PM me for contact info

quote:

Originally posted by badmandiesel:
.... I found a truck salvage yard with a few of these undamaged units in them, would anyone be intrested in some? ..

PMed ya. What number did you tell him?

Hey, I will take one, too...but only if it's a good deal. They are $200 new.

I think the price has increased to 240 shipped, unless you know of a less expensive place to buy one than from dieselcraft.com.

There is a discount for forum members at this page making them $220 shipped.

I found this link on craigslist, can anyone tell what this does. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/tls/272717829.html

its a centrifuge

snatch it up cheap, change out the more than likely seive type drum for a solid one and then put it to good use with your oil.

dear old dad has one up and working right now and it appears to be working perfectly...

how he finds the time for his many projects is beyond me. (whew!!!)

Can I attatch a hose to the outlet on the CF and push back into a barrol? Is it limited to "spilling" into a barrol?

I've contacted the seller to see if it's still available. Do you think it would take much work to change what you were talking about im6under?
What's the difference between something like this and a dieselcraft?

quote:

Originally posted by teacher:
Can I attatch a hose to the outlet on the CF and push back into a barrol? Is it limited to "spilling" into a barrol?

You can hook a hose to it, but it must be above the tank, and flow freely by gravity. With a hose you lose the evaporative dewatering, but still get centrifugal dewatering if you capture the output at shutdown.