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Dieselcraft centrifuge works great -My filter and dewater rig
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quote:
Originally posted by rkpatt:
Would there be any heat related concerns (melting, distortion ) using a HDPE plastic barrel ?

Yes there are concerns since at 160F the plastic softens a little, but some are using them with success.
quote:

Also, would a 4ft length (max) 3/8 automatic transmission oil (ATF) cooler hose be OK (vs hydraulic hose) between the pump to the inline heater for a Dieselcraft OC20 setup ? Why ? ATF cooler line is more readily available and sold by the foot .

Check the pressure rating on that hose, it may not be good enough to handle the PSI needed.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4
Zero fossil house- 100% solar power and heat.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: August 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I use a 20lt plastic drum to mount my CF and heat to around 100 deg C and as yet have zero distortion. Peace and blessings Howie


Peace and Blessings
Howie
87/88 300D 210k
Near 50k on svo fuel heater thermostat by passed
GQY60 Nissam Patrol with TD42 donk. 390k near 80k Veggie
Tiger loop CAV 296 filter (retired still running never a fuel issue)
2005 Musso 150k near 15k WVO
1999 Musso 195k near 1500kms WVO
PUG 306 turbo about to be converted
 
Location: Regional South Australia  | Registered: November 11, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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ATF cooler hose maximum working pressure ratings are lower than hydraulic hosebut well above the 80 psi used for the Dieselcraft CF setup . I guess that WVO compatibility is the same for both types.

( see - http://www.goodyearep.com/productsdetail.aspx?id=2804 )

-Thanks

quote:
Originally posted by SunWizard:
quote:
Originally posted by rkpatt:
Would there be any heat related concerns (melting, distortion ) using a HDPE plastic barrel ?

Yes there are concerns since at 160F the plastic softens a little, but some are using them with success.
quote:

Also, would a 4ft length (max) 3/8 automatic transmission oil (ATF) cooler hose be OK (vs hydraulic hose) between the pump to the inline heater for a Dieselcraft OC20 setup ? Why ? ATF cooler line is more readily available and sold by the foot .

Check the pressure rating on that hose, it may not be good enough to handle the PSI needed.


1994 F250 IDI 7.3 NA E4OD

Remember that the forum search/"find" feature does not include the archives . Search the forum archives here-

http://www.biodieseldiscussion.com/forums/search.php
 
Registered: November 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Where did you get your Centrifuge?
bufordc
 
Location: Colorado | Registered: September 27, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Registered: October 14, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks, I have filterd all my oil in the past, first allowing a minimum 2 week settlement of the 5-gallon container then sucking of the top straining by gravity through (three) standard funnel filters usually about 3-4 cycles. I wanted to move up to the centrifuge system. I have been running oil in two different cummins (two tank system) for about 4 years now and just convereted my motor home with a cat 3126 to a two tank system. I want to make sure my oil is clean and dry (for sure). The cat 3126 performs better on the WVO than with diesel. Just thought I would throw this information out there in case anyone else is intrested.
 
Location: Colorado | Registered: September 27, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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I got both of my centrifuges from dieselcraft in California.
Great follow up service too.


________________________________________________________
Has anyone converted a W210 Mercedes to use SVO?
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/ev...=857104535#857104535
 
Location: Arlington, Va.  | Registered: October 14, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hey all,

I have not posted for some time. My system continues to work great - my thanks to all of you, especially Sun and John at Dieselcraft.

I am trying help out in Grenada, West Indies, and have made a micro loan (a way to "invest" on a local level.) I am in process now of setting up a system there. The question: In Grenada the house current is 220V 50 hz. (I have gotten a motor to work, by the way, so the 60hz vs. 50hz is not an issue.) I want to install at least one hot water heater element and I worry about the intensity of the heat put out by the element working off of 220 rather than (as we have it on our system in the States) 110V. Will the oil passing by get too hot at the interface between the element and the liquid? Might there be a propensity for polimerization at the interface or a tendency to burn? Sun, can you weigh in on this?

Michael

This message has been edited. Last edited by: veggieguy,
 
Location: Austin | Registered: April 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by veggieguy:
In Grenada the house current is 220V 50 hz. (I have gotten a motor to work, by the way, so the 60hz vs. 50hz is not an issue.) I want to install at least one hot water heater element and I worry about the intensity of the heat put out by the element working off of 220 rather than (as we have it on our system in the States) 110V. Will the oil passing by get too hot at the interface between the element and the liquid? Might there be a propensity for polimerization at the interface or a tendency to burn? Sun, can you weigh in on this?

Michael

With few exceptions, domestic water heaters are 220VAC anyway, though you may have unknowingly adapted an element to run from 110V in vegoil heating, etc. (That's not a problem, since resistance heating is the least demanding mode of power use - your heating element isn't going to care much what frequency it gets, nor even voltage, until you get so high you've got arcing concerns.) The power available from 50Hz vs 60Hz for this heating corresponds to the area under the voltage-vs-time curve, so that the 50Hz Grenada version just offers slightly less power than your familiar 60Hz version. So if polymerization were a concern with the 60Hz setup, all other things being equal, at 50Hz this would be less of a problem.
 
Location: Honolulu | Registered: April 15, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If you installed two elements in series each would be getting only 110V across it.
 
Location: New Zealand | Registered: August 15, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes poly could be a problem on a 220V element. 2 elements in series is one way, an easier way is get the longer element that wraps back on itself, so the heating area is much larger (>2x) than the cheaper elements of the same watts. These are easily available at most stores.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4
Zero fossil house- 100% solar power and heat.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: August 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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We sale used cooking oil,sunflower oil,rapseed oil,corn oil and many more ....,

We are dealer's and an established company in United Kingdom for that supplies used cooking oil for Bio Diesel,Crude and Refined Oil


Used Vegetable Oil for USD280 Per Metric ton
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Palm Oil,crude palm oil, RBD PalmOil for USD350 Per
Metric ton
Palm Oil for USD350 Per Metric ton
Biodiesel for USD 400 Per Metric ton
Castor Oil for USD350 Per Metric ton
Grape seed Oil for USD3500 Per Metric ton
Jojoba Oil for USD350 Per Metric ton
Crude Palm Oil for USD350 Per Metric ton
Palm, RBD Olein for USD350 Per Metric ton
Palm Stearin Organic for USD350 Per Metric ton
Virgin coconut Oil for USD350 Per Metric ton
Kapop Seed Oil for USD320 Per Metric ton
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AND MANY MORE....


WE LOOK FORWARD TO HAVE A SOLID BUSINESS RELATIONSHIP WITH YOU IN THE NEAREST FUTURE.
CONTACT US VIA EMAIL:lahralex@rocketmail.com, johnpeter367@gmail.com
 
Registered: January 16, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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All,

While it is clear that the previous post does not belong in this blog, it did peak our interest.

We have interacted with the parties who posted this advertisement for used oil without success. I caution you all to be careful in your dealings with them as we found them to be less than businesslike. I fear that it may be some sort of scam.

I thought to throw a word of caution to you who have been more than giving to us.

Michael
 
Location: Austin | Registered: April 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My DC is working to dewater but the flow is down. At 160F and 90 psi it's dry as toast. To measure flow I use a 20 oz cup that takes 10-11 seconds to fill. That's about the 0.9 gpm. Well, I was running a batch this past week after a long lay-up. Now it's 16-17 seconds to fill up.

The unit was cleaned when laid up. I checked the orifices and they were clean. I took out the bowl and placed the cover on it and blew out the post. (Wearing goggles) The upper hole blew out fine but the lower hole blew out kind of weak. I poked the post holes with a wire. They're fine but the lower hole is still weak. Anyone had a problem like this before?


Mike Goodman
High Point, NC

83 MB 300SD (2 tank) - Greasel
98 Dodge 2500 (2 tank) - Golden Fuels
82 Rabbit Truck (2 tank) - my design) - SOLD
Diesel Craft CF process in enclosed shed
BD first batch 9/23/12, still going ..
6-4x10 solar hot water panels and 500 gallon wood-burning water stove
2.8 kW PV grid-tie w/batt b/u commissioned March 2011
 
Location: High Point, NC | Registered: September 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Mike,

Yes, we had a similar problem years ago with our OC-50. Maybe this will help: Depending on the age of your centrifuge, it may have a spring and piston type valve that should be removed. This spring and piston may exist in the inlet of your centrifuge and could have gotten stuck a position to restrict flow. Perhaps a call to John at Dieselcraft may help. As I remember, the two parts are simple to remove.

Hope this helps.

Michael
 
Location: Austin | Registered: April 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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So when you say you remove the piston, do you mean to clean it, or remove it permanently?

After 6 to 7 years I'm now having problems with low pressure and low volume.
I think my problem is related to the oberdorfer pump. Valve close don't see more than 40 psi. Any Idea's?


________________________________________________________
Has anyone converted a W210 Mercedes to use SVO?
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/ev...=857104535#857104535
 
Location: Arlington, Va.  | Registered: October 14, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Remover the piston and spring permanently. I believe that they were intended for use when the centrifuge is installed in diesel trucks. I think that these two parts are not useful in our WVO filtering setups. We have cleaned thousands of gallons without the spring and piston of WVO without any problem. I think that Dieselcraft does not install the spring and piston in new units when the centrifuge is to be used to filter WVO. Again, to verify, you could ask John at Dieselcraft.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: veggieguy,
 
Location: Austin | Registered: April 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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DO NOT REMOVE THE PISTON

The rotor does not spin.
1. The check valve spring IS installed make sure you have pressure to the centrifuge. Make sure you have at least 40 PSI.

To test the flow to the centrifuge and rotor take an empty soda bottle and place it over the spindle after you remove the rotor. Start the pump and slowly close the valve. If you do not see oil coming from the two holes in the center shaft there is a blockage in the shaft or the piston in the base is stuck. (See the note about removing the spring) If the piston is stuck, remove the inlet hose then using a screw driver push the piston back. It may take a light tap with a SMALL hammer to make it move. DO NOT BEAT WILDLY upon the screw driver. Once the piston is “back”, reassemble and test the centrifuge.

2. Make sure the rotor spins freely by hand.
After the use of some vegetable oils you will find the centrifuge will “gum up” from the cooled oil. Use hot water and detergent to clean the rotor after use.

Use an automotive “brake cleaning spray” to clean the rotor shaft and the holes in the shaft that the oil come up through to enter the rotor.

3. Confirm that the seal between the rotor and the base are intact and the o-ring is not cut or protruding.

4. If you have over pressured the rotor the nut that holds the rotor cover to the base will show a gap and will not tighten down. You must replace the rotor. Contact Dieselcraft.

5. If the rotor spins for a minute then slows you have a restriction in your drain. For OC-20 the MINIMUM ID of a drain must be 1 inch and 1 ¼ for OC-50’s. If the drain is smaller even by 1/8 inch the oil will not drain properly. The oil will back up into the centrifuge and cause it to flood. If you have added a valve to your drain, make sure that the through hole of the valve is also the correct size. A 1 inch ball valve does not have a 1 inch hole through it. Same for 1 ¼ inch ball valves.

Too many elbows also will restrict the drain and cause the flooding.

6. Call the factory.


Clean the piston and spring and make sure is slides smoothly in the centrifuge base. Once assembled, from the inlet side use a screw driver to push on the piston. It should move smoothly.

Are you sure the pump is functioning properly?

Are all the seal good on the rotor/...no orings bulging out from the cover?

Call Dieselcraft On Monday 530 613 2150

John
 
Registered: January 29, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Thanks John for clarifying.

Renntag, as to the Oberdorfer: There is a guy, Pete, at Oberdorfer who may be John's equivalent for these pumps. Perhaps a call to him would be helpful.

Our 991 lasts for thousands of gallons without significant lash and loss of flow or pressure. If your pump has a bypass valve, could it be adjusted to increase pressure? Again, and clearly for example by John's response we are doing some things differently, though I think successfully, we adjust the bypass on the 991 all the way down. We also have installed a safety release 100 pound bypass in line just after Grainger's adjustable safety release valve on the way to the centrifuge - just to be safe.

Michael
 
Location: Austin | Registered: April 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by veggieguy:
Thanks John for clarifying.

Renntag, as to the Oberdorfer: There is a guy, Pete, at Oberdorfer who may be John's equivalent for these pumps. Perhaps a call to him would be helpful.

Our 991 lasts for thousands of gallons without significant lash and loss of flow or pressure. If your pump has a bypass valve, could it be adjusted to increase pressure? Again, and clearly for example by John's response we are doing some things differently, though I think successfully, we adjust the bypass on the 991 all the way down. We also have installed a safety release 100 pound bypass in line just after Grainger's adjustable safety release valve on the way to the centrifuge - just to be safe.

Michael


I have just installed a complete 100 gallon mobil centrifuge rig in the luggage bay of my greyhound motorhome and I have had a similar problem with my Oberdorfer pump. I have lost pumping power. I'll be putting in a call to them as well.

Scott
 
Registered: February 01, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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