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Dieselcraft centrifuge works great -My filter and dewater rig
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update: we pulled about 30 gallons of crappy wet looking oil from one of our totes that was run through a 100 micron filter. I did not get any photos, perhaps tonight. We heated it up to about 160F and started the centrifuge. It was a little difficult to keep at 80psi because the ball valve kept moving due to the vibration of the OC50, but after a little while it stabilized at just under 80psi. We ran the oil for about 20-30 minutes and there was about 1/4 inch of gunk in the rotor, cleaned it out and then ran it for another 30 minutes with the same amount coming out. The oil didnt seem to look much better at all even capturing it coming out of the bottom in a cup.

I will try and get some photos tonight. Unless we are doing something wrong it seems this centrifuge will not help us to quickly reclaim oil that would otherwise get dumped out because we don't have room to store totes for months to allow it to settle out.



 
Registered: April 28, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by freesoul:
I have been doing quite a bit of reading on these centrifuges. We process about 200 gallons of oil per week into biodiesel and are looking for a quicker and easier way than settling and filtering. I will be borrowing one shortly from a local friend to test out.

How much should I filter our WVO before running through the centrifuge? We were thinking of taking a 55 gallon drum and putting the WVO through 2-3 progressive screens perhaps down to small expanded metal to catch most of the food bits before centrifuging.

Our issue is collecting when it is cold and the time we have to settle the oil, we probably end up dumping good oil before it separates with gravity because we don't have enough capacity to let the oil sit too long.

Was thinking if we could run the oil right from our supersucker through a barrel with some filter media and then into a tote with the top cut off, we could run a line from the bottom of the tote through an inline heater and then the centrifuge. Do multiple passes with cleaning the bowl a few times and then right into our processor. I've read that a centrifuge would remove water as well.


I had a thread that I started a little while ago that I need to update on rebuilding my CF system. I am adding a heated pre-filtering barrel. Basically, I have a 55 gallon drum with two 5500 watt heating elements suspended via some custom made heater spears. A HF 1" Clear Water Pump will move the hot (100 degrees or so) through a 150 micron cartridge filter to remove the big crud. From the filter cartridge it will dump into the CF barrel already warm and ready for fine filtering. Here's the link-I'll be posting new photos soon:

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/ev...9605551/m/3497049723


GENERAL SHERMAN
2003 F-350 FX4 7.3L
Vegistroke V3
 
Registered: March 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by freesoul:
The oil didnt seem to look much better at all even capturing it coming out of the bottom in a cup.

The look of the VO isn't much help to tell anything, since tiny half micron dark particles make it look as dark as larger particles. The amount of gunk you remove from the rotor is the easy way to tell if its working. It sounds like you got a lot of crud and its working. Before and after water tests is the way to tell about water content, and looks isn't enough to test that either. "Wet looking" means very little, since PHO and animal fats make the VO look just the same milky as if you whipped some free water into it during collection or pumping.

What standard are you using before you call your VO reclaimed?


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4
Zero fossil house- 100% solar power and heat.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: August 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by SunWizard:
quote:
Originally posted by freesoul:
The oil didnt seem to look much better at all even capturing it coming out of the bottom in a cup.

The look of the VO isn't much help to tell anything, since tiny half micron dark particles make it look as dark as larger particles. The amount of gunk you remove from the rotor is the easy way to tell if its working. It sounds like you got a lot of crud and its working. Before and after water tests is the way to tell about water content, and looks isn't enough to test that either. "Wet looking" means very little, since PHO and animal fats make the VO look just the same milky as if you whipped some free water into it during collection or pumping.

What standard are you using before you call your VO reclaimed?


Heres a photo of the oil after it was run through the CF for almost an hour, about 30 gallons. Looks the same it did when it went in. We took similar looking oil and filtered it using a 50/25 sock filter and it cleared up fine. This is oil that in the past we would discard because we had enough good looking oil, but the problem this winter is that its been so cold that we have to use a heater spear to even suck up the oil. We simply dont have storage capacity to let it settle that long, so either we throw it out, burn up sock filters quickly and $, or try a CF with the associated electric cost.

Usually we only process oil that is clear no matter what the color. Our sources use mostly clear oil with occasionally some PHO. We do a hot pan test before it goes in the reactor.





Image2011-02-16_18-16-07_35.jpg (47 Kb, 48 downloads) oil sample
 
Registered: April 28, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I would like to obtain fuel through pyrolysis.My pyrolysis mechanism is almost done. Can i clean it with the centrifuge?
 
Registered: March 01, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by misu:
I would like to obtain fuel through pyrolysis.My pyrolysis mechanism is almost done. Can i clean it with the centrifuge?

Hi i am interested to know more about your pyrolysis set up, would you be able to share more as i cant see what you would need a centrifuge for after this technique.
Peace and blessings Howie


Peace and Blessings
Howie
87/88 300D 210k
Near 50k on svo fuel heater thermostat by passed
GQY60 Nissam Patrol with TD42 donk. 390k near 80k Veggie
Tiger loop CAV 296 filter (retired still running never a fuel issue)
2005 Musso 150k near 15k WVO
1999 Musso 195k near 1500kms WVO
PUG 306 turbo about to be converted
 
Location: Regional South Australia  | Registered: November 11, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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I have been off the internet for quite awhile, and even now I still only have dial up. Are the general instructions, designs for your units still the same? Is there a condensed updated version of the instructions available? I have been trying to get caught up from where I have been away, but using dial up is so painfully slow and seems like the last 3-4 pages of this thread are full of bickering and fighting bs that I dont even want to be on this forum at all. But I really want to build a unit so I can start using wvo. So can anyone help me?? Or guide me to a set of instructions that does not include all the bs? I would love to read the entire thread, but it would take days on dial up and I do not want to have to wade thru the bs to get to the valuable info. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Location: West Virginia | Registered: July 12, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Has anyone had loss of pressure with the oberdorfer pump? Perhaps I am nearing the need for a rebuild.


________________________________________________________
Has anyone converted a W210 Mercedes to use SVO?
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/ev...=857104535#857104535
 
Location: Arlington, Va.  | Registered: October 14, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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That happened to me. The coupling between the motor and pump wore out. Installed a new one and all is well again.

Debbie
 
Registered: December 07, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by f350familybeast:
Are the general instructions, designs for your units still the same? Is there a condensed updated version of the instructions available?

Yes there is a link to a condensed version at the top of post#1.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4
Zero fossil house- 100% solar power and heat.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: August 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks SW, that will be a huge help.
 
Location: West Virginia | Registered: July 12, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Finally spun my centrifuge for the first time. I ran 5-10 gallons for about 20 min and took a sample to see what it looked like. I put it in a glass jar and when I look at the oil from the side I can't see through it, not even light. When I look at it from the bottom I can clearly see light through it and see some objects. Do you guys think it is just the jar that is making it hard to see through? What does your oil look like when it is close to clean. I have not done a HPT, I am going to run it some more before I do that. Thanks.
 
Registered: March 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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PHO and fats make the VO milky and hard to see through but make no difference on a properly heated 2 tank conversion. This makes the look not very useful since most VO has some fats from the fryer.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4
Zero fossil house- 100% solar power and heat.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: August 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Couldn´t resist posting my rig. After reading (most) of this tread, decided to built one myself. Pretty standard setup, motor from washing machine, power steering pump from junkyard, plastic barrel and some leftover parts. Still under construction...

DSC_1206 by Henkrijder, on Flickr

DSC_1213 by Henkrijder, on Flickr

DSC_1203 by Henkrijder, on Flickr

DSC_1204 by Henkrijder, on Flickr

DSC_1214 by Henkrijder, on Flickr

I have some questions, maybe you guys can help me out.

-Regarding the motor, do you connect both the low and the high speed coil, or only the high speed one?

-The big washer to prevent heater element O-ring blowout is a bit bigger than the O-ring, maybe 1/16 or 1/8 or something, should the washer be tight against the sides of the O-ring?

-the bypass valve, is it better to connect it straight to the pump inlet or can you leave it dangling in the barrel?

-how many amps are your circuit breakers? (if any)

Thank all of you for this thread! it´s a wealth of information...
 
Registered: March 22, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Henkrijder- It is nice to see a washing machine motor setup. Black iron pipe would be a better choice. The zinc on galvanized pipe reacts with WVO .


See the link below for the washer motor wiring. If the that doesn't help try posting on some of the appliance repair forums . Also I wonder if a dryer motor has enough power for this purpose (running a PS pump)

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/ev...9605551/m/9391076182

Maybe this will help-" washer motor test cord " -

http://appliancejunk.com/forum...ex.php?topic=2069.15

http://repair2000.com/images/motor_test.jpg

http://appliancejunk.com/forum...dex.php?topic=6657.0

http://www.applianceblog.com/m...one-direction-3.html

Edit - BTW - Some time ago , I used info from this link with a salvaged Whirlpool / Kenmore washing machine motor coupled to a Melling M55 GM SBC automotive oil pump for a transfer pump setup .



more -

http://www.thebrewingnetwork.c...topic.php?f=4&t=3923

http://www.applianceblog.com/m...owly.html#post118930

http://i7.tinypic.com/2hxy51f.jpg

http://i18.tinypic.com/2cp9gu0.jpg

http://i52.tinypic.com/wjgxt3.jpg

http://www.american-appliance...._motor_test_cord.gif

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rkpatt,


1994 F250 IDI 7.3 NA E4OD

Remember that the forum search/"find" feature does not include the archives . Search the forum archives here-

http://www.biodieseldiscussion.com/forums/search.php
 
Registered: November 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Nice skull and crossbones.
quote:
Originally posted by Henkrijder:
-The big washer to prevent heater element O-ring blowout is a bit bigger than the O-ring, maybe 1/16 or 1/8 or something, should the washer be tight against the sides of the O-ring?

That small gap should work.
quote:

-the bypass valve, is it better to connect it straight to the pump inlet or can you leave it dangling in the barrel?

Best to go into barrel so it doesn't overheat the pump with hot VO.
quote:

-how many amps are your circuit breakers? (if any)

Mine are 20A and I use 2 different ones.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4
Zero fossil house- 100% solar power and heat.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: August 31, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Ok regarding the galvanized pipe, will it really affect the WVO in a harmful way, since it will only pass through for a few hours at a time?

EDIT: Went to the hardware store today and got everything in black iron now, better do it right the first time isn't it? Plus got fittings for an extra heater element and the granger pressure relief valve.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Henkrijder,
 
Registered: March 22, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by rkpatt:
Henkrijder- It is nice to SET a washing machine motor setup. Black iron pipe would be a better choice. The zinc on galvanized pipe reacts with WVO .




What do mean with set?
BR, Henkrijder
 
Registered: March 22, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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'SET' = 'see'? typo? The washing-machine motor repurposing is unusual or unique, I think might be his point. (I can't explain the all-caps, though.)
 
Location: Honolulu | Registered: April 15, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes, a typo.

RE: Henkrijder 's Dieselcraft CF setup ( shown in an earlier post on this page) - Would there be any heat related concerns (melting, distortion ) using a HDPE plastic barrel ?


Also, would a 4ft length (max) 3/8 automatic transmission oil (ATF) cooler hose be OK (vs hydraulic hose) between the pump to the inline heater for a Dieselcraft OC20 setup ? Why ? ATF cooler line is more readily available and sold by the foot .


1994 F250 IDI 7.3 NA E4OD

Remember that the forum search/"find" feature does not include the archives . Search the forum archives here-

http://www.biodieseldiscussion.com/forums/search.php
 
Registered: November 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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