Why not just say calibration is not needed, and back it up? Because you choose not to address the issue, it is obvious you are the who doesn't know.
Then why do you quote and respond to posers. It only encourages them and you'll never change their unfounded opinions. Quoting them only exposes their drivel to those of us who have them on our ignore list so we don't see anything they post.
But of course you are. Ignore trolls, don't respond.
Its a learning curve... I have not been active on this forum until relatively recently considering my join date.
Ok this is almost comical. Do you even know why I made that comment? It has nothing to do with calibration but rather because he thinks we are using "copied" "DIY" devices... I have no clue where he would get such an idea since it is crystal clear we are using a final, packaged MEMS humidity sensor straight from Honeywell and directly using the datasheet information. There is nothing remotely DIY about this device or the method in which we are testing it. He even claims to have read the data sheet which puzzles me even further.
After hearing a comment like that it is again, ABUNDANTLY CLEAR, that all of allegations mentioned against the device and test method are just wild guesses.
As far as calibration goes SW has already CLEARLY indicated how this was done. Read the first page of the capacitive meter thread and click the links. READ.
Perhpas you should read the discussion on this device at: http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/ev...59605551/m/408106945
It begins with SW claiming
He also states
Which is why I asked:
Which he has chosen to not respond to.
Perhaps you should familiarize yourself more with the discussion on this device before accusing me of not understanding what is going on here.
The questions being asked by myself and a few others about the "Homebrew cheap capacitive water in oil meter" are not allegations. They are legitimate questions that any person claiming to be familiar egough with this subect should be able to answer. The fat that they remain unanswered indicates that some skepticism about the claims beign made about it is well founded.
Of course attacking the skeptics is a much simpler response than admitting that perhaps more research and development may be required. This is a pattern that originated when the claims about the DCf were raised.
I have tested the claims about the DCf personally..and so KNOW they are significantly exaggerated. At this point I am not saying that the
cannot become a valuable tool. I am simply asking questions that the developer does not seem to be able to answer without indicating that his research and development is not as complee as he seems to be claiming.
May I venture that Dan puts quite a literal interpretation on others' comments, much to their frustration, and I wonder if he does it on purpose to confound.
It's pretty obvious that the sensor itself is the real deal but is being adapted to an unusual job, call it DIY if you like. Not having read the datasheet, would it wrong to think that it must go to 100% reading at 100% atmospheric humidity.?
Atmosphere is primarily nitrogen and oxygen but the sensor only reads the H2O component. SW is saying if you dip it in oil it will also then only read the H2O component - in effect the oil is a very dense atmosphere but one which does not normally conduct electricity. If the oil is saturated with H2O to the point where droplets (dew) forms it goes to 100% reading.
I would suppose that if no calibration is needed in ordinary air then probably not in oil either.
Seems do-able to me.
Fair enough, have fun. Many of us have simply concluded it's like trying to teach a pig to sing.
I repeat, The last 2 pages are off topic to this thread. Take it to the capacitive water in oil meter thread before I start flagging all your posts. This is why I am not answering Dana and the rest of you here when it goes so far off topic. If you above posters want to do whats right (without having to burden the moderator with this task), edit and remove your above posts from this thread.
Has anyone tested the "no name" centrifuges sold on ebay that sell for $119?
They appear to be knock offs of the diesel craft units.
I wonder if they work as well?
I have had the chance to see two of these non-Dieselcraft units. They appeared identical to the OC-20 and came with a complete system that I bought for a friend. The differences became apparent: The non-Dieselcraft units did not have the powder coated canister so it made it a bit more difficult to keep the exterior clean. The rotors were not nickel plated so they were prone to corrosion which made cleaning them a bit more difficult, too. And, perhaps most importantly, the rotors on the two that I had the opportunity to examine were not carefully balanced so when they were operating they were not as quiet or steady.
Not to give John at Dieselcraft too much of a plug here, but my experience with Dieselcraft has been good. He re-surfaced a face if the stem on one unit to cure a vibration and, on another occasion, he replaced a rotor when the nickel plating was not up to par. He used to give a discount to members of this forum, too, and may still give one.
Our current OC-50 with two spare rotors has been in pretty severe service for over three years without a hitch. The eBay units may reflect the adage, "you get what you pay for."
And again thanks to all who contribute. You have led to considerable improvements in our filtering and led me to my next project which is the capacitive meter. I still pledge to post photos (which I now have learned how to do thanks to you guys, too).
hi all . i am a new member. have been playing around with wvo for a while and now want to get serious and make a set up for use daily. i run 3 x diesl veichles daily. spend around £400 a month. i am a builder. i have a merc ml270cdi 2001 common rail. merc 108 cdi vito 2000 2.2td common rail. and ford transit 2.2 d old tractor type engine. noisey as hell and guttless., so this one will be the guinepig. i have used wvo bio ( apparently proffesional made) but still felt it had water in it and soap as i lost power and my common rail engines didnt like it any more than 50/50 with pump diesel.
so this is my question. i want to use the following set up
power steering pump into spinner from heated part filtered wvo prior to this. i have been looking into cutting the wvo once filtered with 10% unleaded fuel to hold the glycerine in and to use it as power and not to do the bio route of titration methanol etc way !! i have a contact in the usa who has been doing this for years with his tractors and combines and also his diesel fleet trucks and on common rail engines. has no problems so far. done for around 4 yrs now. so will this work ? has it been tried and also does it like comon rail engines ?? also i like a bit hydrogen added aswell
That's off topic for this thread. See these sections of the forums where you could ask that and there are other people blending:
General Blending Discussion
Single Tank Systems and Blending
I just pick up my centrifuge and I am thinking of using a polyethylene cone bottom tank that I already have to clean the oil in. I will have the oil at room temp (40-80 degrees F) then run it trough an inline heater to get it up to 160-180. My question is, do you guys think that the oil in the tank will ever reach 140. My tank is rated to 140 and I don't think the entire tank of oil will ever reach it. I will not have it insulated and I will have about 50-80 gallons in it at a time. I think I will run it for max 8 hours at a time. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks.
Yes when its 180F at the CF it will be 150-160F in the rest of the tank. Variables are the size of your heater and the ambient temp.
Sun, thanks for the info and the great thread you started.
I have recently, and for the first time, gotten about 100 gallons of oil that is about 25% partially hydrogenated. It is high quality and comes to us having been pre-filtered. I have had no experience with partially or fully hudrogenated oil. However, at least I am aware that partially hydrogenated oil becomes cloudy when below about 70 degrees Fahrenheit and that it is more viscous.
Two questions (the second might be off topic):
1. Do I need to process the oil differently through our Dieselcraft system?
2. Once filtered, do I need to so anything special for storage and or use in the car?
As usual, our thanks to all.
No, I use PHO about half the time.
No. Depending on temps it may be too thick to easily pump. Your conversion must provide enough heat (>70F everywhere) so it can melt it, no single tank blending with PHO.
I have been doing quite a bit of reading on these centrifuges. We process about 200 gallons of oil per week into biodiesel and are looking for a quicker and easier way than settling and filtering. I will be borrowing one shortly from a local friend to test out.
How much should I filter our WVO before running through the centrifuge? We were thinking of taking a 55 gallon drum and putting the WVO through 2-3 progressive screens perhaps down to small expanded metal to catch most of the food bits before centrifuging.
Our issue is collecting when it is cold and the time we have to settle the oil, we probably end up dumping good oil before it separates with gravity because we don't have enough capacity to let the oil sit too long.
Was thinking if we could run the oil right from our supersucker through a barrel with some filter media and then into a tote with the top cut off, we could run a line from the bottom of the tote through an inline heater and then the centrifuge. Do multiple passes with cleaning the bowl a few times and then right into our processor. I've read that a centrifuge would remove water as well.
No filtering before only strain with 100 mesh/150 micron screen and then let the centrifuge do its job. Heat to 160F and turn the 50 gallons over 4 times and you are go to go.
Ok so filter to 150 microns first