quote:

Originally posted by Graplr:
I have about 20 gallons in there and have run it for about 3-4 hours at 160+F and 55PSI. I stopped (captured the output) and cleaned the rotor. There was a fair amount of crud in it, so even at this low PSI it is still cleaning.

Can it work at PSIs this low?

Yes it works as you just proved, but its much slower.

That pump is capable of 90psi easily. At 90 psi it should be doing 7gpm so you should have 6gpm bypass which is a waste of power. According to the specs, it needs a 1hp motor to do 90psi. This is a drawback of getting a pump thats way too big for your CF. Your 1/2 hp motor is too small for that pump, from the charts 50psi is all 1/2hp will do on that giant pump.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:

quote:

Originally posted by Graplr:
I have about 20 gallons in there and have run it for about 3-4 hours at 160+F and 55PSI. I stopped (captured the output) and cleaned the rotor. There was a fair amount of crud in it, so even at this low PSI it is still cleaning.

Can it work at PSIs this low?

Yes it works as you just proved, but its much slower.

That pump is capable of 90psi easily. At 90 psi it should be doing 7gpm so you should have 6gpm bypass which is a waste of power. According to the specs, it needs a 1hp motor to do 90psi. This is a drawback of getting a pump thats way too big for your CF. Your 1/2 hp motor is too small for that pump, from the charts 50psi is all 1/2hp will do on that giant pump.

Well I got it working. I tried the pump in the other direction but couldn't get the motor to run that way. So I put it back the original way but left the relief valve on backwards. Once I got it up to temp I tried it out and it went right up. I ran it at 80-90 PSI with no problems. So either the relief valve can't hold the pressure put on the opposite side or I tightened it down more when I put it back in.

It may be too much flow but if I ever want to add another fuge it will be no problem. Also, at the price I got the pump and motor, I could'nt have even walked in a store and bought a motor for the price. And at 7-8 gpm it doesn't take too long to transfer the oil. I'm happy with it.

Thanks for everyones help.

quote:

Originally posted by Graplr:
I'm having trouble finding a closed-top steel barrel to turn upside down and use the bungs, so I may just have to bang down the bottom of an open top one (have on hand) and weld in a fitting.

I am building a new rig for my OC20. I have a fresh, food grade barrel, I am cutting the bottom out of it and welding on a cone I have made from sheetmetal, and a 1.25" MPT nipple for the outlet. I think this will better eliminate the crap that is missed at the bottom. Currently I have a hose attached to a heater dropped into a flat bottom barrel. I am excited to get the new system operational.

quote:

Originally posted by Graplr:
I am also thinking of having a return/bypass both to the barrel and back inline before the pump, but we will see how it goes as I have a lot of oil to bypass with only 1 OC20 hooked up to the N993R.

With respect to your return flow, perhaps you might want to return to the barrel and some how make the flow fan out Something like this.

I plan to do this in my next system, additionally incorporating a fan and a light to help keep dry air moving over the barrel.

ive got the same setup, a 1/2hp motor-n993r attached to a dc-20. there isnt all that much return flow; i have to close the ball valve almost all the way to get up to 90psi. not sure what's going on, am i feeding too much flow to the centrifuge and is it not being cleaned properly? or is the internal bypass in the pump just opening and keeping the full 8gpm from going through? not exactly sure how these things work.

on a side note, im thinking about using a 24V dc scooter motor, hooked up via lovejoy couplings to either my junkyard acura p/s pump or a small block chevy p/s pump. i'd install it in the trunk of my car, and run it at 12V.

For a tank i'd cut a 55gal barrel to fit the trunk of my car with the cf mounted to the lid of the drum. i'd heat the drum with waste coolant heat, tee'd off from the return from my veg oil tank. does this sound like it'd work? anyone have experience using the scooter motors & what psi they generate? would it be better to instead buy a 16 plate heat exchanger and run the wvo through that than "waste" heat by heating the entire tank?

biotour,
Ebay for the 993R/1/2hp combo? I see they have a few of those.

I have ALOT of bypass.

When I got the pump the relief valve was on the opposite side of the diagram from oberdorfer and I couldn't get anything more than 40 PSI. I ended up putting the relief valve on the other side. My pressure goes up to 90 no problem now with a lot of bypass. The only two things that I think really could have changed were putting the relief valve on the other side OR perhaps I tightened it down further??

If you did get it from ebay, try tightening the valve first then if no change and you want higher PSI try unscrewing the relief valve and putting it on the other side.


Renntag,
I'm happy with the bypass going into the barrel. I have not connected the bypass into the pump line but I left closed off tees in case I wanted to. The bypass sprays the side of the barrel no.

I'm also very happy with the bowl shaped bottom barrel I created following Skulptor's plans. I welded a fitting to the the very bottom of the bowl and when I tested it with water it goes right into the hole.

yeah i picked it up from ebay, its the one with the marathon electric motor. works great and so far ive used it in the trunk of my benz to drive from sf to seattle and back, and out to denver, and haven't had to change the fuel filter the whole time. before i had the pump/cf combo i used 5 micron filter bags and had to change the filter every 600 miles or so. i tightened the relief down so i can get 90psi, but i still have to close the valve just about the whole way to get that pressure. i'll try moving the relief valve to the other side and see what happens- just worried with it running currently that i may wear out the pump prematurely.

Are those scooter motors capable of running under load for long periods of time ? The smallest properly sized 120 volt AC motor pump combination + inverter (or possibly a 12 vdc continuous duty motor https://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/136.pdf ) + high output alternator might be better choice for an onboard DC setup .

Biotour wrote- -

quote:

on a side note, im thinking about using a 24V dc scooter motor, hooked up via lovejoy couplings to either my junkyard acura p/s pump or a small block chevy p/s pump. i'd install it in the trunk of my car, and run it at 12V.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rkpatt,