I'll try save the Wiz from having to answer all those, and answer to the best of my knowledge. Sun, correct as appropriate.

1. you are using the system in the summary page, linked at the start of this thread. all the components are the same.

YES. (there may be minor changes, not impacting performance)

2.you do not settle or mist wash.

Incorrect. There is some settling, but it is not necessary. It helps for sure. Sun used to mist wash but didn't get sufficient improvement in results to justify it. I mist wash becuase I like to. I let it settle as long as I can til I need it. Takes longer to process if it's not settled, obviously, but sometimes you don't have a choice.


3.you are removing free and suspended water.you are getting oil that passes the hot fry pan test, is filtered enough to run, and this has been verified by lab tests, and no problems with your vehicle.

In essence YES. Not sure about the lab tests. According to my memory, there are particles smaller than 10mic. That's why I filter with a 2um screw on catapillar filter. I haven't had to change my fuel filter in ages. Yes, it passes HPT. How many passes will depend on your system (how much heat, how well insulated, ambient temperature, how watery the oil was to start with, etc). Test it the first few times til you're comfortable with predicting the results.

4.besides running it through a filter as you pump into the vehicle, all you are doing is pumping from the restaurant, through your system, and into your vehicle.

YES

5.you are processing about 50 gallons in 4 hours, unattended, except you have to be there to start it and shut down.

YES, except as noted in 4. you may have to do more or less passes (ie longer time)

6. there are many others getting the same results.

Don't know how many others, but I am one of them. It works really well for me. Turn it on, leave it, pump it into storage barrel.

quote:

Originally posted by 95ram:
i am trying to read all this but i am getting dizzy.

No need to read it all, except for entertainment value and to see some variations others have tried. Thats why I put the answers to yours and everyone else's questions in the summary on page 1. I have made very few changes since >2 years ago.

quote:

1. you are using the system in the summary page, linked at the start of this thread. all the components are the same.

Yes.

quote:

2.you do not settle or mist wash.

Correct. Except I settle if I get a very bad batch with visible free water.

quote:

3.you are removing free and suspended water.you are getting oil that passes the hot fry pan test, is filtered enough to run, and this has been verified by lab tests, and no problems with your vehicle.

Correct.

quote:

4.besides running it through a filter as you pump into the vehicle, all you are doing is pumping from the restaurant, through your system, and into your vehicle.

Correct.

quote:

5.you are processing about 50 gallons in 4 hours, unattended, except you have to be there to start it and shut down.

Correct, except for very dirty batches where I have 1 shutdown after 1 hour to clean the rotor.

quote:

6. there are many others getting the same results.

Yes as you can see by this thread, I know of about 100, and there are usually about 10x as many people doing this who will never post about it. The drawback to this is its hard to get a dieselcraft right now since they got popular and are very backordered.

thanks to both of you.

not being able to get a dieselcraft would be my luck, now that i found a system that i think will work for me.

my problem has been electricity, i am finding it harder to get electricity to my garage then to process WVO and convert my truck. and, because of the amount of oil i will be burning, i would need several heated barrels with the heat and settle systems.
with your system, i could just run an extension cord out there when i use it and process 50 gallons a day, which will hopefully be more then i will ever need.

truck hasnt been converted yet, guess i can do that while waiting for the dieselcraft.

I have one 4500w element in a 50gal drum running on 120v and it heats up an insulated barrel to 160F in about 4 or 5 hours.

When I put it on 240V it heated too much. If you put 2 elements, one at each end of the tube, on 120V I think you'd do fine. That's 20Amps, shouldn't be too hard to get that into the garage?

Paul Drayton -

thanks, but do not get me started on that garage, i think a lister on WVO is going to be my only option, or at least cheapest.

bedrock, 1' down. cant even get a ground rod in.
the trench, even with conduit, wont be code. i could bring the power in from above, but then i still cant get the ground rods in. even lying them down is too shallow.
like i said, dont get me started.

Hmm even with a genset of some sort I believe you would still need to get a ground rod for safety reasons.

I'm trying to clean wmo and was thinking of getting a cf. Is this the best thing to get? I'm going to need it to filter down to atleast 2 microns, and the oil will have paint thinner, anti freeze, and other chemicals in it. I will be processing about three hundred gallons per week. If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it.

That sounds like some nasty stuff there.

quote:

Originally posted by bluerivers:
I'm trying to clean wmo and was thinking of getting a cf..........the oil will have paint thinner, anti freeze, and other chemicals in it.

A CF will remove material that's in suspension, i.e. particulates, water, etc.

Once paint thinner and chemicals have blended with the oil it's all in one solution, and a CF won't separate it back out.

I know we need to make this thread longer, so here I go...

Regarding the Teel gear pump VS the honda accord (or whatever) power steering gear pump.

My teel pump wore out it's seal and started leaking. So I got a power steering pump from the junkyard for about $16. The PS pump is bigger and is made to handle the sideways pressure of the belt on it, whereas the Teel is not. If I had to do it all over from scratch I would definately pick the PS pump.

Here's some pics. Gear ratio of about 1:2 gives over 90psi. I left it like that to make pumping to the storage barrel quicker.

NewGearPump_002-small.jpg (49 Kb, 53 downloads)

ANother pic of the whole setup. First pic is the 3 worm drives so the hose wouldn't slip off again. Luckily I heard it and went to look and it was pumping BD all over the place.

NewGearPump_001-ppc.jpg (22 Kb, 64 downloads)

Hello All.

The dieselcrafts are back in. I just got one from the distributor in louisiana...

I have two questions for the guru's.

1. Has there been any problem with suspending the dc by the female threaded input? Seems a little shakey - I did not buy the mounting plate (-$20 bucks) and this is what i plan to do as well but just thought i'd ask.

2. Does anyone know the rpm rating for the honda gear pumps? --- 89 acura legend.

thanks.

howdy all,

can anyone give me any advice on hose? i have been using 3/8 braided hose with clamps for my CF and twice it has popped off the motor... and recently my hose sprouted a leak. has anyone else had this problem? i think its from the high pressere and such. whats the best kind of hose to use so i'll have no worries and can just leave my system alone while its running? and just to give a bit of info on the previous problem i had stated with the rotor not spinning. there was a chunk clogging the center shaft. a bit a brake cleaner in the shaft and problem solved.
thanks

quote:

Originally posted by cambro5:
whats the best kind of hose to use so i'll have no worries and can just leave my system alone while its running?

Fuel injection hose from the auto parts store, rated at 250psi. Never had a problem in > 2 years with it.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
Fuel injection hose from the auto parts store, rated at 250psi. Never had a problem in > 2 years with it.

My last update I used the braided steel hose from McMaster Carr, I'd bit fuel injection hose would have worked as well but much lower priced...dang.

Sam

Fuel inj hose is $7 per foot for 3/8 i.d more for 1/2", you still have to buy hose barb fittings and clamps which add to the cost. Hose clamps can't compare to the crimped fittings of your Mcmaster stainless braided hose. You did the right thing. How much did you pay?

quote:

Originally posted by Sam Crowe:

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
Fuel injection hose from the auto parts store, rated at 250psi. Never had a problem in > 2 years with it.

My last update I used the braided steel hose from McMaster Carr, I'd bit fuel injection hose would have worked as well but much lower priced...dang.

Sam

quote:

Originally posted by canolafunola:
Fuel inj hose is $7 per foot for 3/8 i.d more for 1/2", you still have to buy hose barb fittings and clamps which add to the cost. Hose clamps can't compare to the crimped fittings of your Mcmaster stainless braided hose. You did the right thing. How much did you pay?

quote:

Originally posted by Sam Crowe:

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
Fuel injection hose from the auto parts store, rated at 250psi. Never had a problem in > 2 years with it.

My last update I used the braided steel hose from McMaster Carr, I'd bet fuel injection hose would have worked as well but much lower priced...dang.

Sam

quote:

Originally posted by canolafunola:
Fuel inj hose is $7 per foot for 3/8 i.d more for 1/2", you still have to buy hose barb fittings and clamps which add to the cost. Hose clamps can't compare to the crimped fittings of your Mcmaster stainless braided hose. You did the right thing. How much did you pay?

Your are correct in that it fits tight, but something like 31 dollars for 12 inchs of hose, and I used 3 segments...and, if you are doing much bending/twisting, more than 12 inches would be a good idea.

I happy though, I'm running to two OC-50s so I've cut my cleaning time in half, and I move more oil keeping it better stirred.

Sam

ABout the OC-20 and buying one.

I'm trying to get another one for someone I'm helping out, but I've only found the $299 kit that comes with pressure gauge and valve.

That might be fine, but the plumbing is all brass. As far as I know, brass is a copper alloy, so it's not good for polymerisation. I prefer black iron.

I've tried emailing dieselcraft but they only want to let you talk to dealers.

Anybody know where to get just the OC-20 for more like the $200 I paid for it? Or has someone got one they want to sell?

Thanks

quote:

As far as I know, brass is a copper alloy, so it's not good for polymerisation. I prefer black iron.

All metals can accellerate polymerization...black iron included.
The danger of polymerization due to metallic ions has been presented as a major problem when it in fact is not normally. In fact water and the water soluble contaminants it carries (especially acids)is much more of a key element in rapid polymerization reactions in most circumstances than any metal is as far as VO fuel goes.Conventrating these contaminants and exposing the VO to large amounts of O2 is much more likely (IMO) to infuse VO fuel with polymers than brass fittings are.