My apologies. I just realized there is two O-Rings. I was referring to the Rotor Cover Rubber Ring (the round not the square one).

Can't help with Dieselcraft, but for anyone with a Spinner II I've had excellent service from https://oil-tech.com/spinerii.htm both for a spare rotor bowl and a pair of Viton 'O' rings.

The bowl was $9.57, the Large cover 'O' ring was $8.72, and the small rotor 'O' ring was $5.98, plus a reasonable $10.00 for shipping from Canada.

No connection other than as a satisfied customer.

I just got back from the junkyard. They had some acuras, but I had left my tools at home.

However, I was able to get the pump off an 80's looking honda accord with just 1 wrench. I think it was a 1/2", just 3 bolts and cut the hose and you're done. You can see the gear pumps because of the 2 dome shapes sticking out the back.

Now to attach it and test.

Good thing I didn't but it online - they don't come wtih the hose and hose manifold, which I'm thinking you really need otherwise you'll have a helluva time trying to connect a high pressure hose to it.

How do you adapt a water heater element into a T or Pipe fitting. Seems to me that the threads arent the same adn dont match up well. Would hate to cross thread it and have to rebuild it each time the element would need replacing

Ken, they have the same TPI but one is tapered. I have had no problems with leaks by just using a good pipe dope when assembling.

the gaskets suck, I just used a ton of white plumbers tape. Mine have been holding up just fine for months.

I don't know what the fuss is with the heater elements. I got the 1.5 pipe, put a 1.25 adapter in it and bada bing bada boom, done. No washer or anything needed.

Maybe I just got lucky...

so i have been running on wvo that is filtered through the dieselcraft CF and in two weeks i have had to replace two 5 micron inline filters... i have run about 35 gal through the CF at 85psi and at about 140 deg. how is this possible? each batch has been through the CF about 3 times and when i turn the motor off i hear the CF spinning? i thought this thing was supposed to filter down to 1 micron. i have to be doing something wrong or my CF is broken...

You need to put it through more than 3 times, especially if it's emulsified with water. It all depends on your oil. The dark amber stuff needs more time as well. Emulsified oil with water needs 6-8 times at least.

quote:

Originally posted by cambro5:
i have had to replace two 5 micron inline filters... i have run about 35 gal through the CF at 85psi and at about 140 deg. how is this possible? each batch has been through the CF about 3

Hi Cambro,

Running for 3 hours might take out as much as 20% of the particles. The halfway point of 98% particle removal is somewhere between 8 and 12 hours. It is likely that the 5 micron size and larger is long gone before that halfway point, but if 5 micron is your target you should run at least 4-6 hours. (I'd also run closer to 160 degrees)

Sam
Wyoming

quote:

Originally posted by cambro5:
when i turn the motor off i hear the CF spinning?

How long does it keep spinning after you shut off the motor? That tells how fast its spinning.

thanks for the wisdom... i have been running the CF longer and have been getting a lot more gunk out. however recently my CF has just stopped spinning. my pressure gauge will rise as i close the bypass valve, but the CF simply doesn't spin. could this be my pump/motor? my pressure valve is reading 85, but no spinning. i have the pump and the motor that are represented on the dieselcraft site so... if its not one thing its another, ha ha.

quote:

Originally posted by cambro5:
my pressure valve is reading 85, but no spinning. confused:

Evening Cambro,

First thing to do is check the jets on bottom of the rotor, it sounds like one or both are plugged. You can poke a "push pen" through it or even a piece of carpet thread with a little knot tied in. Mostly I like to take WD-40 and shoot a stream right through the jet to rinse it out.

If you don't have a fine screen on your pickup, you can suck up bug parts and all kinds of stuff into the CF that can't fit through the jets.

If you're getting oil at the right pressure, and your rotor turns freely on the stem, either your jets are plugged, the stem, or the internal centrifuge pressure regulator are plugged or jammed. All are easy fixes. But the jets are the most likely problem.

Sam

Mine did that for the first time ever a few days ago. There was some solid piece of something stuck in the main shaft you can see when the spinning thing (rotor?) is pulled off.

On a separate subject though, could someone save me 142 pages of reading and tell me what sort of gear ratios they are using with their acura/legend/accord power steering pumps?

I was using about 1:2 with the teel pump, but the pulley on the PS pump is way bigger than what I have on the teel. Anybody know how much these puppies put out?

quote:

Originally posted by cambro5:
if its not one thing its another, ha ha.

Hi Cambro,

So what did you find was the problem?

Paul, I use a 1/3 hp motor with a 2 inch pulley on it. I use the original pulley that is on the steering pump. This get's me to 90 psi, but when it starts to get real hot and clean my psi goes to 70-78. I would get a more powerful motor to run a bigger pulley so you get more psi. The key is to not turn on the CF until the oil is >120 degrees. Otherwise you get crazy psi bouncing which can break the rotor. I had to place one several months ago. I now know how to avoid that.

Thanks Ben.

Just to confirm - the pulley that is on the PS pump is about 2inch RADIUS, 4 in diameter (is that how they're measures - diameter?)

I have a 1/2 hp motor, and it does 2 speeds with a clutch (washing machine C-section motor). The pulley it has is about 1.5" diameter, so I think I will just leave it as is and put on the PS Pump.

You might want to consider putting a over pressure bypass loop after the pump back to the input. I have mine there and set at 95PSI and it saves me having to worry about the pressure spiking, especially since I have about 3 ft of pipe after the pump to absorb the pressure fluctuations.

PS pulley looks right. BTW: the gear pump pumps better in a certain direction (which unfortunately I don't have a description of with me right now).

Do you have a picture of your over pressure bypass loop? I just have a flow relief ball valve before the CF.

My OC20 came with the pressure relief valve so a pump that goes more than 1 gpm still works as I just adjust the pressure valve.

My motor is 1/2 HP and the pump is a power steering pump from a small 4 cylinder car (about 3"x3" square). I'm getting about 1.5 gpm and I have a 4" dia. pulley on the motor and about a 3" dia. pulley on the pump. When I can find a 3" dia. pulley i'm going to try that and see if I can close off the pressure valve some more.

The motor is a fleet farm special at 1750 rpms.

Wade

Ben, this is what I have -

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&pro...&lpage=none&pad=true

from pg 77 of this thread. PIcs at

http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/bd/centrifuge.htm