Correct, these pumps build pressure if they have something to pump against, in the fuge there are two nozzles that the oil jets out of which causes the high speed rotation, these nozzles are pretty small so they will build pressure, so you need a pressure relief valve and/or a ball valve to set your pressure to the correct psi, the extra oil just vents out of the valve back toi the tank.
What have you guys experienced with taking the bypassed oil and reintroducing it into the intake of the pump?
Seems to me this would eliminate the recontamination of the oil.
$499 with the base, 2 tees, guage, valve, 2 hose barbs.
That is OK but it doesn't eliminate recontamination.
An idea to avoid recontamination using one 55 gal open top drum:
Direct the CF drain and bypass oil into a 55 gal garbage bag "floating" on top of the oil. When the bag is full, lift the bag from the bottom (using a string and marble tied to bag bottom previously) to empty oil back into the drum and start over. Same idea as a bladder in a water pressure tank except it's not pressurized. Downside is you have to be there to tend to it.
Now that I think about, the oil that bypasses the CF isn't any cleaner than the oil picked up from the tank anyway. Really, one would need to direct the oil exiting the CF to the intake, and that would reduce the water removal.
2002 F250 Vegistroke now with the new V3 module!
If piped so only clean oil enters top of barrel from the CF, would the warmer cleaner oil from the CF sit on top while the cooler dirtier oil tend to sit lower in the barrel offering a bit of separation thereby reducing the amount of recontamination?
I had an old dishwasher pump sitting around that I put on the drain port of my barrel. The pump intake is 2" so it fit perfectly, and it has a 3/4" port off the side of the intake housing where I draw oil for the hydraulic pump that feeds the CF.
The output of the dishwasher pump is run over and back up in to the bottom of the barrel along the edge with an elbow inside the barrel to direct the flow to turn the oil in the barrel cyclone style.
I put the dishwasher pump on a timer so that it cycles for a minute every 15. It keeps everything mixed up and makes sure it all gets through the CF a couple of times.
The law of physics says it would.
Six months after I constructed the CF Sunwizard designed I have put my first Eight (8) Gallons in the 55 gallon drum. Eight Gallons for several reasons. I want to make sure there are no leaks on the seams before I get going. Secondly, the bottom quarter of the cubie is cloudy so I stopped pouring at that point. Do you guys dump in everything or pick off the top? What is the cloudiness. Lastly, I think I will run the first eight (8) Gallons through the piping to clean it out. I used Real Tuff teflon paste and I am sure some of it is on the inside of the pipes along with whatever else comes inside cast iron pipes. Should I be concerned about teflon paste at all? Should I even run it through the CF or just run it through the piping then dump? Is there any concern about a rusty barrel?
Sorry for rambling but I am so excited to begin this journey that I have only read about from you guys.
If I seem frantic it is because my mother's day gift, on Sunday, to my wife is giving her and my son a ride in the truck powered by Veggie Oil. It is the least I can do since I have been a recluse in the garage for Six months.
My motor came with no pulley or shaft. Just a slot that looks like a flat head screwdriver will fit. My hydraulic pump came with just a shaft.
Where do you get the pulleys and shafts???
A motor with no shaft??
Can you post a pic?
Why do I think that she may be seriously underwhelmed by this?
Thats a Carbonator motor, they need a special coupler, here is some on ebay for $5 and a special type of pump with no shaft and the same kind of slot. Most carbonator pumps are vane pumps so don't work as well.
The pump is a gear pump, but where do I get the pulleys??
Tractor Supply , Grainger, McMaster-Carr
1994 F250 IDI 7.3 NA E4OD
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You can't put a pulley on that motor. That motor will not work with that pump, as I explained above.
Why will it not work?? The spec are below:
Baldor spec# 34G40X17
Is this a better motor??? It has 1/3HP or do I need more?? it is 115V and has 100RPMs??? What are the minimums the motor needs to be??
That depends on what CF and what pump you got.