From my post above yesterday at 4:20:

quote:

The pic you are referring to on page 1 was my 1st day test before I had the fittings to suck from the bottom of the barrel. I suck from the lowest point (drain) in the tilted drum, not over the lip. See the diagram on the summary link, its a continuous downhill slope from tank outlet to pump.

I start with the pump and 2 elements on. Start CF at 120F, which is usually about 30 minutes, turn off 1 heater at 160F, keep 1 going that maintains 160F. 180 isn't too high but gains very little for the extra power cost.

The best spot for the thermostat and a temp guage is after both elements and before the CF.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
I start with the pump and 2 elements on. Start CF at 120F, which is usually about 30 minutes, turn off 1 heater at 160F, keep 1 going that maintains 160F. 180 isn't too high but gains very little for the extra power cost.

As I've mentioned I normally run at 180, but I haven't done any comparisons to know how much improvement in cleaning there is at 180 over 160. I do know there is considerable oil thinning as my temp goes from 160 to 180, since the pressure drops, so I have always thought that would mean I'd get better cleaning at 180?. And, after my oil reaches 180 I didn't think it too that much more energy for me to hold it there in an insulated barrel?

Good discussion.

Sam
Wyoming

I too have been running at 175-180* but this weekend I noticed my oberdorfer 991 beginning to leak at the end where it connects to the motor. I looked at the specs for the pump and they say max. temp of 140*. Have any of you had a problem such as this?

quote:

Originally posted by Muleears:
I looked at the specs for the pump and they say max. temp of 140*. Have any of you had a problem such as this?

I haven't, if I recall my pump specs are max for 200 or more.

Sam
Wyoming

I see there are two differant 4500 watt 240 volt water heater elements at hardware stores.

Single loop style or double loop style.

The single style clears everything OK on 1 1/4" pipe.

The double loop style does not.

Anyone using the double loop style? It would probably clear OK with 1 1/2" pipe.

I would assume you would not want the element to touch the pipe.

Jeff

You can bend the loops a bit plus it does not hurt for them to touch the pipe.

SunWizard - thanks for the clarification on the thermostat location. Likewise the outflow location. Did you have any input of whether or not more heat 180F would be better, worse or indifferent?

I also noticed that some double elements make a slight contact in 1 1/4 Tees but was able to move it enough to correct the issue.

On the subject of creating a cone shape on the bottom of the barrel vs tilting the barrel and putting the outflow where the tilt is toward is there any discussion pro or con one way or the other? Any sure fire ways to get a good cone shape beat into the bottom of a drum? Would it be better to weld the drain fitting in place before trying to shap it into a cone or install the drain after? I was thinking in terms of getting the drain fitting to seal well on a flat surface as opposed to a surface that if not flat after getting pounded by a bowling ball or a 4x4

quote:

Originally posted by OilItRight:
SunWizard - thanks for the clarification on the thermostat location. Likewise the outflow location. Did you have any input of whether or not more heat 180F would be better, worse or indifferent?

See what I said at the top of this page: "180 isn't too high but gains very little for the extra power cost. "

Captndiet- I too have noticed the double loop style H2O heater elements have a tendency to touch the 1 1/4" pipe as they are a bit wider. I'm going to try them anyhow, I hope Raften is right about them being OK to touch the pipe a bit. They only seem to touch toward the very end of the loop (up near the T).

Single loop don't touch the 1 1/4" pipe, but they have 2X the watt density (ie: about half the surface area) of the double loop style.

I get the idea that Sun and other are using the single loop style, and they seem to be working fine.

Has anyone had to replace an element yet?
-Preston

Sun, I've been following this tread for months and have decided you are one of the most patient people ever. :-)

Ok..... I'm just a newbie here, as most of us asking these questions, but here is what I did with my barrel bottom. Does it work?? Time will tell. I am just hooking up the pump today so hopefully I can tell you in the near future.

I turned the barrel upside down and proceeded to pound the bottom IN toward the inside using a round headed hammer. (I'm a blacksmith/metal sculptor so I have various hammers) Ya want to use as large of a diameter head as you can, as to not put little "walnuts" (metalworker term for small dents) in the bottom and keep it smooth. Try not to use a hammer with a sharp edged face. That can rip the metal if you don't hit it square. Then put on your "mickey mouse ears" or ear plugs and start in the middle and work your way around in a coil fashion. You will need to do this SEVERAL times. Be patient and try to keep it smooth and consistant. Then when you feel you have enough dish in it - I got about 1 1/2". That's where I don't know if it's enough or not, but I'm going to give it a go -
then flip the barrel over and put the edges on a couple 2x4's and take a baseball bat or something smooth and round and knock the dish back out the other way. Don't get to "crazy on it", it will push out. Oilitright mentioned a bowling ball. I think that would be a great idea but I don't bowl. The radius of a bowling ball would be large enough as to not cause little dents. The smoother the radius, without being too flat the better.
Now here's where I may lose a couple of you guys as I just happen to have quite a bit of metal working equiptment.
I cut about a 3/4" hole right in the center and welded a black iron 90* elbow on the bottom. It does not protrude thru the hole. It's welded to the outside. Brazing it would work too. Then go ahead and run your pipe.
Like I said, I have some tools that some of you probably won't have access to so you may have to find a "friendly welder". I wish I knew another good way for you besides welding and still not have a lip on the inside, but I don't. Sorry. But if you happen to live close to Batesville IN. bring your stuff over and I will weld it for you. Won't cost you a thing. I like to help where I can and unfortunately, I ain't near as talented as Sun. So that is about all I can offer.
I will post pix of my rig when I get it done so you can see it. But I'll tell you now that I welded allot of my joints because of the horror stories I read about leaks. I'm no plumber, but I am a good welder. That is also why I tried to build mine with as many connections as I can over the barrel.
By the way, just in case your welder asks, I TIGed the connections using silicon bronze filler. Nickel will work too.
Hope this is of some help for you guys. I can't say that it will work, but when I know, I'll post the results.

Oh and:

quote:

Sun, I've been following this tread for months and have decided you are one of the most patient people ever. :-)

I could not agree MORE!!!!
Gettin closer,

Thank you I missed it. The Fenwal thermostat I bought is adjustable, the main reason I was asking about 180 was if there was any benefit to more heat, the thermostat is adjustable.

[/QUOTE]
See what I said at the top of this page: "180 isn't too high but gains very little for the extra power cost. "[/QUOTE]

Wow, in a hundred years it would never have occurred to me to knock the end into the barrel first and then back out. Soon as I remember where I put my old bowling ball and buy some ear plugs.....

quote:

Originally posted by Skulptor:
I turned the barrel upside down and proceeded to pound the bottom IN toward the inside using a round headed hammer. (I'm a blacksmith/metal sculptor so I have various hammers) Ya want to use as large of a diameter head as you can, as to not put little "walnuts" (metalworker term for small dents) in the bottom and keep it smooth. Try not to use a hammer with a sharp edged face. That can rip the metal if you don't hit it square. Then put on your "mickey mouse ears" or ear plugs and start in the middle and work your way around in a coil fashion. You will need to do this SEVERAL times. Be patient and try to keep it smooth and consistant. Then when you feel you have enough dish in it - I got about 1 1/2". That's where I don't know if it's enough or not, but I'm going to give it a go -
then flip the barrel over and put the edges on a couple 2x4's and take a baseball bat or something smooth and round and knock the dish back out the other way. Don't get to "crazy on it", it will push out. Oilitright mentioned a bowling ball. I think that would be a great idea but I don't bowl. The radius of a bowling ball would be large enough as to not cause little dents. The smoother the radius, without being too flat the better.
Now here's where I may lose a couple of you guys as I just happen to have quite a bit of metal working equiptment.
I cut about a 3/4" hole right in the center and welded a black iron 90* elbow on the bottom. It does not protrude thru the hole. It's welded to the outside. Brazing it would work too. Then go ahead and run your pipe.
Like I said, I have some tools that some of you probably won't have access to so you may have to find a "friendly welder". I wish I knew another good way for you besides welding and still not have a lip on the inside, but I don't. Sorry. But if you happen to live close to Batesville IN. bring your stuff over and I will weld it for you. Won't cost you a thing. I like to help where I can and unfortunately, I ain't near as talented as Sun. So that is about all I can offer.
I will post pix of my rig when I get it done so you can see it. But I'll tell you now that I welded allot of my joints because of the horror stories I read about leaks. I'm no plumber, but I am a good welder. That is also why I tried to build mine with as many connections as I can over the barrel.
By the way, just in case your welder asks, I TIGed the connections using silicon bronze filler. Nickel will work too.
Hope this is of some help for you guys. I can't say that it will work, but when I know, I'll post the results.

Oh and:

quote:

Sun, I've been following this tread for months and have decided you are one of the most patient people ever. :-)

I could not agree MORE!!!!
Gettin closer,

Not that there is necessarily anything any better about my CF than the others on here, but if you would like to see it, I posted pix at: http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/Skulptor/Centrifuge/
I did weld some of my fittings and also the pipe to the bottom of the barrel on the outside so ther was no lip.
Just thought I would share. Maybe it can help someone.

Skulptor,

Can you put up some pics of the cone bottom you made? How deep is it? Did your drum have circular concentric ribs on the bottom? Were they hard to hammer out? Did you use heat at any point? How long did it take?

Another Q: Do you think bed frame angle irons are beefy enough for a welded up cart like yours to hold a 55 gal drum of veg?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: canolafunola,

quote:

Thats not a good test. What it needs to lift is small amounts of water that collect on the bottom. To test, you need to use >120F VO with some small amount of water added.

Sunwizard, I did the test based on your input. See this thread scroll down to Test 1 and Test 2 (with pics). Outcome was some interesting results you probably would not expect. What do you think? Is there something I should have done differently in the test?

quote:

Another Q: Do you think bed frame angle irons are beefy enough for a welded up cart like yours to hold a 55 gal drum of veg?

My rig's frame is made from salvaged bed frame angle iron. and my heater tube is made from bed frame head board tubing that I picked up along the road. I should have used casters and wheels under mine, just didn't have any around when I built the frame. I move my unit around by sliding it on conctrete.


Ken

Hey Canola,
I will see if i can get a shot or two of the bottom for you. I hammered it down about 1 1/2 inches. I'm not even sure yet if this much angle will work. But I'm sure it is better than flat. The bottom was flat. But even if it had ribs, they could be hammered out.
No heat. Altho it would be ok to use it - carefully - I didn't feel it was necessary. If you are trying to acheive a "dunce hat" out of the bottom, don't. There just isn't enough metal there to go that deep. That's why I just hammered and didn't use heat. But you can if you want to take some of the work out of it. Just be careful you don't burn thru or hammer thru when it's really hot. You can get a nice smooth bottom in about a half hour. (well, ok... I can. I should not assume. sorry.)
Bed frame should be fine as long as you don't come out too far for the motor/pump section of the frame. If for some reason you find it necessary to go out further that what it looks like I have, just set your casters back towards the barrel. (split the difference or so)

Now, I need to go see my buddy who owns the KFC and see if he is ready to drain a fryer or two.

OH!!!! By the way, another friend who owns a carwash came by and gave me a few 15 gallon plastic barrels. (He says he has a BUNCH of them!!!) I think this is what I am going to transport in. They have good handles and are easy enough to manage. I'm just wondering how much heat they can take so I know how soon I can harvest the oil after it comes out of the fryer. I can literally get it right out of the fryer or up to a week later. (Before someone has to say it, I know right out of the fryer won't work.)
By the way, what are FFA's in the oil?
Oh, and since they dump the oil in an open top barrel, I'm thinking of welding the 2" bung that came in the top of my barrel in the lid that they use to cover the open barrels (also use the band that holds it on). Then I'm going to try a hand pump that I bought that does 15gpm to transfer the oil. That may be a little more work, but allot faster and controlable. A clear hose on the end will show me whats going thru but Rick (the owner) said he would filter it for me thru his filter first. But either way, I think that could work for others. (?) Just a thought.

quote:

Originally posted by veggieguy:

quote:

Originally posted by Judge:
If anyone is having trouble locating a pump to run the dieselcraft CF, I purchased 3 pumps.

If you can't find one, contact me. I will part with one for what I paid for it. I am not a dealer or anything but figured I might need spares or one for a mobile unit. Would rather have one of the members have the deal.

The pump is an Oberdorfer N991R, new in the box. I believe this is the same one, or very close, to the same one the Sunwizard uses.

Judge

I am of the same heart as Judge. From a previous post:

I have three extra Oberdorfer 991 set ups should someone want one. They are perfect (according to Pete at Oberdorfer) for the DC 50 -> 90 PSI and 1.8 GPM. They are brand new and close coupled to .5 hp 110V motors. Here is a link that might help: http://www.pumpagents.com/OberdorferPumps/N991N-F51.html

I am selling them at no profit as a way of saying thanks to all of you who have helped me through this site. I bought the new pumps for $75 delivered, the coupling for $80 delivered, and the motor for $65 delivered, so the total would be $220.

So there is no excuse for you guys to have a reliable pump 'cause you can buy one from me or from Judge.

Hi there,

Iwas interested in you previous message about selling an Oberdorfer N991R gear pump. I am from Ireland and have great difficulty in sourcing a Oberdorfer N991 that can be shipped to Ireland. Do you still have an available pump and what kind of money do you want for it? I have seen an Oberdorfer N991 for 180 dollars on pumpbiz?

Looking foward to the pics and thx for the tips. Here's a pic of Caribbean steel drum- musical instrument., made from 55 gal drums. Notice how deep the cone is? How do you think they did that? Heat? No heat?

Regarding your KFC collection site, I'd set it up so the oil is poured in through a rough screen (catch chunkies) in a large funnel with a pipe that goes to 2" above bottom discharging sideways (to avoid stirring up bottom crap). Set up a hose siphon with a ball valve (to keep the prime for next time). Tie the inlet of the hose to a float (plastic coke bottle works well) so it draw off the top. Stay away from the bottom 1/4 of the drum. You may need to raise the drum for the siphon to work with your 15 gal tank. Find as large a diameter flexible hose as you can. Clear is a plus. Some vacuum cleaner hoses are very flexible and clear and perfect for the job.
I wouldn't put any oil hotter than 160F in a poly drum.

<IMG SRC="http://www.dkimages.com/discover/previews/767/113717.JPG">

quote:

Originally posted by Skulptor:
Hey Canola,
I will see if i can get a shot or two of the bottom for you. I hammered it down about 1 1/2 inches. I'm not even sure yet if this much angle will work. But I'm sure it is better than flat. The bottom was flat. But even if it had ribs, they could be hammered out.
No heat. Altho it would be ok to use it - carefully - I didn't feel it was necessary. If you are trying to acheive a "dunce hat" out of the bottom, don't. There just isn't enough metal there to go that deep. That's why I just hammered and didn't use heat. But you can if you want to take some of the work out of it. Just be careful you don't burn thru or hammer thru when it's really hot. You can get a nice smooth bottom in about a half hour. (well, ok... I can. I should not assume. sorry.)
Bed frame should be fine as long as you don't come out too far for the motor/pump section of the frame. If for some reason you find it necessary to go out further that what it looks like I have, just set your casters back towards the barrel. (split the difference or so)

Now, I need to go see my buddy who owns the KFC and see if he is ready to drain a fryer or two.

OH!!!! By the way, another friend who owns a carwash came by and gave me a few 15 gallon plastic barrels. (He says he has a BUNCH of them!!!) I think this is what I am going to transport in. They have good handles and are easy enough to manage. I'm just wondering how much heat they can take so I know how soon I can harvest the oil after it comes out of the fryer. I can literally get it right out of the fryer or up to a week later. (Before someone has to say it, I know right out of the fryer won't work.)
By the way, what are FFA's in the oil?
Oh, and since they dump the oil in an open top barrel, I'm thinking of welding the 2" bung that came in the top of my barrel in the lid that they use to cover the open barrels (also use the band that holds it on). Then I'm going to try a hand pump that I bought that does 15gpm to transfer the oil. That may be a little more work, but allot faster and controlable. A clear hose on the end will show me whats going thru but Rick (the owner) said he would filter it for me thru his filter first. But either way, I think that could work for others. (?) Just a thought.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: canolafunola,

yikes...... guys please trim your quotes. A good quote in my humble opinion ONLY contains a cliff note version of the orginal. You can use: ..... or <snip> to indicate where you have left out orginal text.

Full quotes get clunky and the cost of saving so much stuff twice makes it more expensive to run this board.