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Can anyone guide me in selecting one of these pumps from Grainger below?

I am going to be drawing from the center of the drum with hard pipe to the gear pump placed ON TOP of drum, then hard pipe to CF (same level), then drop outflow back into the drum. Total draw up will be the height of the drum. I understand I can bypass excess flow but don't feel the need to run a pump only to dump it's workload. I also don't want to come up short on the recommended PSI and GPM.

Also what size pipe should I use?

Thanks,

Brian

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6NY91

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6NY92
 
Location: Andover, MA | Registered: 30 December 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Guys, especially Sun,

We made our first run today with a DC20. All went well - pressure, heat, only one small leak that should be easy to fix. Questions:

1. How long should we wait after mist washing to let the water settle out?
2. We saved a cup of the mist washing water. It was hard to decant the little bit of oil from the water to test with a TDS meter. Our tap water here in Austin has about 145 ppm of solids (I think that these are the units of measure.) When I tested for solids the reading was 115 ppm. I am thinking that the slight residual oil skewed the results. So I did not wash the meter and tested tap water again, and the reading was about 120 ppm. I washed the end of the meter and tested tap water and achieved a result of 145 again. Any ideas on how to get good results?
3. One weird thing happened: The centrifuge started spinning at about 40 psi and continued to increase rpm's to about 90 psi. But then it just stopped accelerating and decreased rpm's to 0. The pressure gauge maintained the reading of about 90 psi. Slowly increased pressure again and the same thing happened. Any ideas on this? (Dieselcraft guy, especially.)
4. Does the first few minutes of use produce an emulsion? There was a bit of water left from mist washing that I assumed would be removed through heat and centrifuging. Is this a correct assumption?

THANKS.
 
Location: Austin | Registered: 22 April 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hi Brian,

quote:
Originally posted by newtoveggie:
Can anyone guide me in selecting one of these pumps from Grainger below?


For the DC-20 go with 6NY-91

quote:
I am going to be drawing from the center of the drum with hard pipe to the gear pump placed ON TOP of drum, then hard pipe to CF (same level), then drop outflow back into the drum.


That is what I do as well, draw from the bottom, through a bucket heater, to the pump, motor and CF all mounted on the top on a crossing 2X8, then down the otherside back into the tank.

[IMG:left] [/IMG]


2002 F250 Vegistroke now with the new V3 module!
 
Location: Wyoming | Registered: 25 July 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by veggieguy:
1. How long should we wait after mist washing to let the water settle out?

Overnight is best.
quote:

2. We saved a cup of the mist washing water. It was hard to decant the little bit of oil from the water to test with a TDS meter. Our tap water here in Austin has about 145 ppm of solids (I think that these are the units of measure.) When I tested for solids the reading was 115 ppm. I am thinking that the slight residual oil skewed the results. So I did not wash the meter and tested tap water again, and the reading was about 120 ppm. I washed the end of the meter and tested tap water and achieved a result of 145 again. Any ideas on how to get good results?


I use a big horse medicine syringe to suck water from the bottom of the container and can get it without any VO. This gives better results.

quote:

3. One weird thing happened: The centrifuge started spinning at about 40 psi and continued to increase rpm's to about 90 psi. But then it just stopped accelerating and decreased rpm's to 0. The pressure gauge maintained the reading of about 90 psi. Slowly increased pressure again and the same thing happened. Any ideas on this? (Dieselcraft guy, especially.)


That sounds like the output is restricted, we need more info on your rig to help.

quote:

4. Does the first few minutes of use produce an emulsion? There was a bit of water left from mist washing that I assumed would be removed through heat and centrifuging. Is this a correct assumption?


Yes it can, and it means you should probably let the water settle out more before you CF. It may take a long time (or lots of stops and collecting the rotor's wet contents) to remove that large an amount of water.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 +87 300TD wagon Running on 2 tank WVO, 81 Mercedes 300D on V80/D20 blend
Low fossil house- 100% solar/wind power, 90% solar heated.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: 31 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Sorry it took a while to get back to this. I posted pics of my design and was hoping to get some feedback but there were few replies. Since I was already making changes to it and the pics did not reflect the final design and I was very busy, I deleted my posts.

My CF has been running well and met my expectations for being "mess free". I still need to neaten a few things up. If there are interests I can post some pics.

I like to take this opportunity to thank Sun Wizard for his pioneering work on the CF'ing of WVO. What a great way to filter!!!

quote:
Originally posted by Raften:
Canolafunola, what happened to your posts with the pics. I wanted to show a friend what a good installation you made and it was gone??
 
Registered: 08 May 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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It would be great to see your latest pics. I started out with a set up like yours but it morphed into a different animal. Hasn't run yet due to illness.
 
Location: SF Bay Area | Registered: 02 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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wow this is a long post to read though ! after much reading of all the different kinds of set up s ! can any one tell me what is the best reliable pump to use! i understand the power steering pump have problems ! i have a spinner 96 it needs 2.0 gpm at 90 psi ? thanks phil


avoid paying the man
 
Location: airzona | Registered: 04 June 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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There are links to the best pumps on my summary link at the top of page 1:

for an off the shelf pump/motor:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=314
pump only look at look at part# 4271K12 $231
pump/motor ready to go part# 4272K31 $368

Or if you want cheap homebrew pump get a honda acura PS pump from the 80's they are gear pumps.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 +87 300TD wagon Running on 2 tank WVO, 81 Mercedes 300D on V80/D20 blend
Low fossil house- 100% solar/wind power, 90% solar heated.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: 31 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
pump/motor ready to go part# 4272K31 $368

thanks sun i think i'll buy this on monday its the cheapest i have found yet ! only concern is the 1/4 ports do i have to worry about presure drop my spinner 96 has 1/2 ports will that be an issue as it enters the centrufige of course ill use fittngs to ruduce and run 1/4 line ? whats your thoughts ?


avoid paying the man
 
Location: airzona | Registered: 04 June 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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i bought it used so no directions but thanks for the info i ll make it flow!


avoid paying the man
 
Location: airzona | Registered: 04 June 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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It will flow fine. 2gpm is not much for a 1/4 pipe.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 +87 300TD wagon Running on 2 tank WVO, 81 Mercedes 300D on V80/D20 blend
Low fossil house- 100% solar/wind power, 90% solar heated.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: 31 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6PA32
i feel this is the best set up after weeks of seaching ! think im gonna get it so i can get spinning ! now when i get it set up ! can i just use a manual vavle to adjust and bleed off excess presure?


avoid paying the man
 
Location: airzona | Registered: 04 June 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Yes if you are careful. If you make a mistake by not starting with the valve open each time and closing it slowly, you could damage your CF rotor. Thats why a pressure relief valve is recommended, its easier and safer and only costs <$20. It also protects your CF in case a jet gets plugged while running, which increases the pressure to the point of damage.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 +87 300TD wagon Running on 2 tank WVO, 81 Mercedes 300D on V80/D20 blend
Low fossil house- 100% solar/wind power, 90% solar heated.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: 31 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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To adjust pressure use a ball valve that when open just feeds the pump line right back into the tank, as you close it, the pressure to the CF will build. Have your pop off valve right before the CF


I confess that frequently it is beyond my capacity to follow the jumbled mix of thoughts in this and other threads. The best I can hope for is to not get beat up to badly for asking questions for which smarter folks have already been able to extract an answer.
 
Location: Oregon | Registered: 04 December 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Same as I did here in Sweden, look at my pic. attached.........worked fine for me all year 2007.

ImageGear_pump___motor_copy.jpg (215 Kb, 128 downloads)
 
Location: Sweden | Registered: 07 February 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Has anyone used Liners in the CF barrels? I am aware that you can't breech the side of the barrel if used.

I have the opportunity to obtain some plastic pails and barrels for final product storage and was hoping someone knows the potential between:

Vegetable Oil and

Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate
Sodium Alpha Olefin Sulfonate
Sodium Chloride

These are from a car wash. Simoniz products.

http://www.simonizusa.com/pdf/msds/Pink%20Bubbles%2DCherry%2Epdf
 
Location: Andover, MA | Registered: 30 December 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I'm a chemical blender. Those ingredients should rinse fine with water. Just wash out the drum three times or more. It may take even more than that to get the suds out. Carwashes like lots of suds and that product was probably a high foamer.


2002 F-250, 7.3l PSD on grease since 2004
 
Location: El Dorado, Ark | Registered: 04 July 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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so, who has a centrifuge in their car/truck? how do you power it? motor/pump? 12v? 120v? overnight on battery power possible? hmmmmmm?


84 E-350 clubwagon 6.9
 
Registered: 16 December 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I do, from my summary top of page 1:
"I made a mobile unit out of this same rig, to use when I am travelling long distances so I don't have to carry hundreds of gallons of Veg. Oil. I run it with a little, quiet honda 2000watt generator, or plugin power if I am stopped where I have it."

Overnight on battery power would take a large bank of deep cycle batteries, >800 pounds of them. I wouldn't want to carry that kind of weight.


YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 +87 300TD wagon Running on 2 tank WVO, 81 Mercedes 300D on V80/D20 blend
Low fossil house- 100% solar/wind power, 90% solar heated.
 
Location: N. Colorado | Registered: 31 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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thanks so much for the input! the pump should be here on tues if i gag the wife maybe i can get it done!


avoid paying the man
 
Location: airzona | Registered: 04 June 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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