quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
I run about 100psi with the washer on it, since above that the speed doesn't increase, which I can tell by the sound of it.

I can seem to tell that it is spinning faster at 150 psi. Also, I used the JB-weld to ensure that it does not move and mess up the balance. It strengthens the top part also so that it can hold even more pressure without caving in.

Regardless, my friend who works at a machine shop can easily reinforce the rotor for higher rpm's and psi. Good move or bad?

quote:

Originally posted by Tuned:
Regardless, my friend who works at a machine shop can easily reinforce the rotor for higher rpm's and psi. Good move or bad?

Go for it, I think you'll love it. Just don't be too greedy though. 150 psi should be enough. Don't push it too much.

quote:

Originally posted by Tuned:
Regardless, my friend who works at a machine shop can easily reinforce the rotor for higher rpm's and psi. Good move or bad?

Bad move unless he has a way to dynamically balance the rotor. A washer on top works just as well, costs 10 cents and doesn't add weight that could unbalance the rotor.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:

quote:

Originally posted by Tuned:
Regardless, my friend who works at a machine shop can easily reinforce the rotor for higher rpm's and psi. Good move or bad?

Bad move unless he has a way to dynamically balance the rotor. A washer on top works just as well, costs 10 cents and doesn't add weight that could unbalance the rotor.

You're right about the balance. When I first read it, I mistakenly assumed the Tuned was referring to a washer reinforcement. It looks like he was not. Sorry for the confusion.

Ok, so what I'm hearing is that 150psi gives:

1. better cleaning

2. higher throughput

Vegnoob, you're doing this and it's working fine, right?

Sun, you run at about 100psi because you say it doesn't increase the speed (from listening to it). I'd have to think that a 50% increase in pressure is going to speed it up. Sure there is a plateau with resistance and whatever, but surely it makes a difference.

Sam, isn't this a great new experiment? I'd put $0.02 towards a washer and o-ring. Other's could pitch in and you'd have all you need to test it? I'm a bit chicken to fry my rotor...

quote:

Originally posted by Paul Drayton:
Ok, so what I'm hearing is that 150psi gives:

1. better cleaning

2. higher throughput

Vegnoob, you're doing this and it's working fine, right?

Sun, you run at about 100psi because you say it doesn't increase the speed (from listening to it). I'd have to think that a 50% increase in pressure is going to speed it up. Sure there is a plateau with resistance and whatever, but surely it makes a difference.

Sam, isn't this a great new experiment? I'd put $0.02 towards a washer and o-ring. Other's could pitch in and you'd have all you need to test it? I'm a bit chicken to fry my rotor...

Yes, I've run 150 psi several times with better cleaning. Sometimes I peak at over 200 psi (exceeds my gauge limit). So far, no damage at 200 psi. It does seem excessive to me though. I seem to hear it hum louder at 150 psi. I'm thinking that means it is spinning faster. I am getting a tighter pack of goo and more goo. Yes, it gives you higher throughput also. I estimate maybe 1.4 GPM.

Warning though. These devices have not been thouroughly tested at these pressures. Please use at your own descretion. Please use carefully and use safety precautions.

As stated by Sunwizard, any modification of the rotor will cause balance problems.

For forum members that need or want OC-20 rotors the limited time cost will be $50.

Please email me at sales@dieselcraft.com and mention the forum discount.

quote:

Originally posted by Mr Dieselcraft:
As stated by Sunwizard, any modification of the rotor will cause balance problems.

For forum members that need or want OC-20 rotors the limited time cost will be $50.

Please email me at sales@dieselcraft.com and mention the forum discount.

John, can you do some R&D to try to reinforce the rotor. It would help tremendously if we can run higher pressures on these things. Faster more effective filtering and cleaning.

Yes it does go slightly faster above 100psi, but not much, and I don't think its worth the extra risk of damage or popping a hose. I only did it since I already had a damaged rotor to experiment with. It also will increase the power draw and wear on your gear pump.

I find higher temps makes far more increase in filtering and dewatering ability than higher pressure. And at much less risk. I don't like to make a recommendation that results in a lot more people damaging their rotors, or worse.

quote:

Originally posted by Paul Drayton:
Sam, isn't this a great new experiment? I'd put $0.02 towards a washer and o-ring. Other's could pitch in and you'd have all you need to test it? I'm a bit chicken to fry my rotor...

Hi Paul,

I just got back from a meeting in Denver, so maybe I should read everyone else's comments before I say anything about the experimental value of toasting one of my rotors...but I bet I'm a bigger chicken than you are...and...I'm a happy camper with my current setup!

Sam

Edit: After a day like today has been, I'm first going to run out for a six pack of Modelo Especial and limes....

Do not put the washer unless your rotor is caved-in (busted). The washer will not increase the pressure capacity of your rotor until it is caved in.

If you put a washer on a good rotor, the screw will be too high and will contact the top of the cover.

quote:

Originally posted by Mr Dieselcraft:
As stated by Sunwizard, any modification of the rotor will cause balance problems.

For forum members that need or want OC-20 rotors the limited time cost will be $50.

Please email me at sales@dieselcraft.com and mention the forum discount.

I'd recommend everyone take advantage of having an extra rotor. It allows you to switch rotors and clean the dirty one when it is most convenient or when easiest after it has soaked in soapy water.

quote:

Originally posted by Tim c cook:
Tuned -- The small DC CF needs 1 gallon/minute of oil, pressurized to 90 pounds, to spin it at the required speed, at least one fellow here is using a $70.00 Shurflo RV electric water pump to drive his centrifuge.

Can anyone tell me specifically which pump has been found to be OK? I appreciate it may not last forever but I only envisage doing a smallish batch once a fortnight / month and the current stumbling block I have is the high cost of the "proper" pumps.

Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by big_mike:

quote:

Originally posted by Tim c cook:
Tuned -- The small DC CF needs 1 gallon/minute of oil, pressurized to 90 pounds, to spin it at the required speed, at least one fellow here is using a $70.00 Shurflo RV electric water pump to drive his centrifuge.

Can anyone tell me specifically which pump has been found to be OK? I appreciate it may not last forever but I only envisage doing a smallish batch once a fortnight / month and the current stumbling block I have is the high cost of the "proper" pumps.

Thanks.

I have been using the 10565 pump from northern tool for about $100. Find a cheap 1/3 hp continuous duty motor on ebay to drive it with, and pick up a belt and couple pulleys from your local bearing supply house and mount it all on a piece of 2x12. It will require fabricating a bracket out of angle iron to mount the pump to, but it is pretty simple. Or you can do like several others and watch for an oberdorfer unit on ebay.

I have processed about 300 gallons with my pump from northern tool with no problems.

In conclusion, there are several ways to skin this cat.......pick a direction and go with it. Some are using power steering pumps from mid 80's hondas/acuras, others using oberdorfer pumps, others using hydraulic pumps like the one I mentioned, others using teel pumps from grainger.

Waylan

A lot of discussion about pumps and belts here....I don't know if this could be helpful, but I enclose a pic of my hydraulic pump and motor. Look for a place where they disassemble forklift trucks or other machines using hydraulic pumps.
The motor is connected directly to the pump, and no mess with belts here. Just an overflow valve to regulate the pressure. I have cleaned a lot of oil with it, and it stands the heat very well.

Gear_pump_from_above_2.jpg (525 Kb, 121 downloads) Hydraulic pump from a fork lift truck

I can't honestly say that I have hundreds of hours on my pump. I got a spin clean, and on page 7 of that thread are pictures of a fellow's setup using the acura/honda pump. I E-mailed him, and he has had months of trouble free operation processing hundreds upon hunderds of gallons. I paid 15 bucks at a junkyard for mine. I even got the high pressure hoses with it. Make sure you get a gear pump though I got mine off of an 86 prelude, and his came off of an 88 accord or civic. (He couldn't remember.) I spent a while looking at pictures at automobile parts places online to see what the [pumps look like, and the gear pumps all have two circles on the back where you could imagine bearings sit for each of the two shafts. Different cars use different methods for mounting the pump and hoses, but the pump internals are what is important.

quote:

Originally posted by steinar:
I have cleaned a lot of oil with it, and it stands the heat very well.

Hi Steinar,

Glad to see you are still here. For some reason I was thinking you sold your CF.

Hi Sam, no I haven't sold it, I became a dealer of them for Sweden, Norway and Denmark. So now, very slowly, people are looking into this way of life here also, but many of them are skeptical to it as I was :-)
Together with a new WVO friend, we plan to sell stuff needed and maybe help other converting their cars.
Our RV (Fiat Ducato) has been parked now the last weeks since winter is here. And I have no good tank with heating yet. Had some service done on the RV, so when it is finish, I'll start with the tank.

I am following the discussions here almost every day :-)
And of course...collecting oil every week.

Cheers
Steinar

Suggestion:
How about making a "report" like in an excel file from all of us with information of car model, engine, size, year, how many miles on WVO,VO,Dino etc, how many gal WVO produced, cleaning systems, damages on engine/parts because of WVO,{ ;-)}, experiences i a short comment etc. etc. Even a pic. of the car and owner as well????

Or is it to much????

Not too much if you are willing to head the project or can find someone who is. Many projects to do here..but few who volunteer to help accomplish them.

quote:

Suggestion:
How about making a "report" like in an excel file from all of us with information of car model, engine, size, year, how many miles on WVO,VO,Dino etc, how many gal WVO produced, cleaning systems, damages on engine/parts because of WVO,{ ;-)}, experiences i a short comment etc. etc. Even a pic. of the car and owner as well????

Or is it to much????