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hey Biome,

I haven't had any problems with the lid rattling. The two arms on mine seem pretty solid still, and the catches on the top of the arms seem to do a really good job of stabilizing.

One time I tried to run it without the lid though, and without it, the outer bowl rattled so hard I thought it would shatter.

Another thing I noticed about the Acme while resealing the basket rim was that at one spot on the underside of the rim, there seems to be a dollop of solder. It's about the size of a kernel of corn, and it's not quite directly across from the mesh wall seam. I'm guessing it was placed during manufacturing to balance the basket, but if that's true, it seems rather imprecise. It makes me think that keeping the resin application thin doesn't matter so much.

When I've noticed shaking, it's been when the basket is about half-full, or when I've just turned it on or off.
 
Registered: 24 January 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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The only time the lid on mine rattles is on shutdown & when it goes unstable. Everything shakes when that happens.

The epoxy on my basket is by no means uniform & the same thickness. I don't think it is a big deal though either. I have had alot of gunk buildup after running some oil through it that was not evenly spread around the basket & the juicer ran fine so I would think if the epoxy is thicker in one spot then another it should still run fine. As long as the holes are sealed you should be ok.


2001 f-350 ext cab 7.3. No VO conversion yet but working on it.

99Serria 2500. Heath PMD isolator. 60 liter poly tank, hotfox, Walbro FBR5, 10 micron spin on filter w/heater hose wrap, 20 plate FPHE, vegtherm mega, 2 3 way hydraforce valves, HOH. ( July -09 cracked block. Truck sold).

 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hey everyone,

I just finished all 18 pages of this thread and wanted to say thank you to everyone who has contributed to this amazing thread, especially Sunwizard and Bio-me for initiating and continued R+D/tech support.

I've been cold-upflow settle/filtering for a few months, with good but slow results, all the while, wishing I could afford a CF. Now with this ACME juicer, modified cf filter experiment you all have been designing/running, I can finally get my CF wish. Just won a 5001 on ebay for $20, waiting for it to show up so I can get spinning.

Just to be clear, as I've read everything and it's all jumbling in my head.

1. Clean and seal the basket with poly/epoxy resin-like substance, whichever most confident with. Thin multiple coats, clear or opaque, just make sure it's properly sealed.

2. CF works with or without shredder.

3. Heat to approx 100-160F flowing at 3-7 gph.

4. Make sure unit is level, resting on a damping foam or suspended to minimize vibration.

5. Pre-filter to ~100 microns.

6. SunWizard and a few others have drilled holes in upper rim of the basket, whereas Bio-me and several others have not. Both with good results.

7. Balance of the basket is critical.

That's all I can think of, if I missed anything let me know.

Thanks again to everyone, Big Grin

Randy
 
Location: Hudson Valley, New York | Registered: 29 December 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Try it without drilling holes first. If you have vibration problems you can't get rid of you will have to drill holes. Perhaps if you hangit as bio-me has you won't have to drill holes & will be able to have a bigger flow. Makes sure you do a HPT to insure no water.

Mine works great for the cost of it. Good luck.


2001 f-350 ext cab 7.3. No VO conversion yet but working on it.

99Serria 2500. Heath PMD isolator. 60 liter poly tank, hotfox, Walbro FBR5, 10 micron spin on filter w/heater hose wrap, 20 plate FPHE, vegtherm mega, 2 3 way hydraforce valves, HOH. ( July -09 cracked block. Truck sold).

 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I would also use a 10 micron (or smaller) filter post CF. I seem to get some fine particals in my output from time to time.
Good luck,
Mike
 
Registered: 08 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I use a 5 micron bag filter. Oil runs right out of the juicer into it & then into my bucket. I have run a couple hundred gallons through it & not plugged yet.


2001 f-350 ext cab 7.3. No VO conversion yet but working on it.

99Serria 2500. Heath PMD isolator. 60 liter poly tank, hotfox, Walbro FBR5, 10 micron spin on filter w/heater hose wrap, 20 plate FPHE, vegtherm mega, 2 3 way hydraforce valves, HOH. ( July -09 cracked block. Truck sold).

 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I've been using an Acme Juicerator/Centrifuge since last September and found it works quite well though the through put (gpm) is low.

Definitely recommend using a foam pad or hanging it to reduce vibration.

I used aluminum insulation tape on the inside of the bowl for sealing. The light weight avoided potential balance issues. I found it sealed (so far) with no leaks. The only issue being that it can tear if scratched (watch your finger nails). Fortunately if holed it can be easily patched.

Very simple setup. Jean leg filter to remove the big stuff into a holding/settling barrel. Pump the oil to an old hot water heater (on a stand) to heat the oil for processing. Control gravity feed to the Juicerator.

Many thanks SunWizard for the idea.
 
Registered: 21 January 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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anyone not using their cutting wheels? do you find it more difficult to filter the oil without one? i just bought a juicer that didnt have a cutting wheel with it, and i'd like to try it with one as i seem to be having lots of trouble getting grease filtered. if anyone is using this setup without the cutting wheel it'd be great if you would be willing to send it to me, i can cover the shipping. thanks guys! great forum.
 
Registered: 20 April 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I don't use the shredder wheel and the unit seems to work just fine.
 
Registered: 21 January 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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New here.
Just a thought when you run your oil through a cf wount it clean it down to less than a mircon.
In all the reading I have done that is what I have found.
So if you let your oil set you dont have to run a prefilter.

Robert
 
Registered: 27 August 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I have run with and without the shredder with good results. I use the shredder because I think it acts like a flywheel and the center weight balances out the weight of the oil.
Someone else thought the shredder might also help "break up" the oil.
I get some fine dark particles settling out in the bottom of my 5 gal cooler that the CF'd oil sits in. This might be from my pushing the rate to 10g/pm with well settled oil or it might be from corrosion of the zinc Y fittings.
Whatever the reason,I have noticed much better truck filter milage after adding a 10 mic filter between the CF output and my truck tank filler pump.
Mike

87 Ford F250
06 Golf tdi
Plantdrive 2-tank systems
 
Registered: 08 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by bio-me:
I have run with and without the shredder with good results. I use the shredder because I think it acts like a flywheel and the center weight balances out the weight of the oil.
Someone else thought the shredder might also help "break up" the oil.
I get some fine dark particles settling out in the bottom of my 5 gal cooler that the CF'd oil sits in. This might be from my pushing the rate to 10g/pm with well settled oil or it might be from corrosion of the zinc Y fittings.
Whatever the reason,I have noticed much better truck filter milage after adding a 10 mic filter between the CF output and my truck tank filler pump.
Mike

87 Ford F250
06 Golf tdi
Plantdrive 2-tank systems


I get some particals as well sometimes. I usually only run one pass. I think if you ran more passes that probably would be good enough. I find it faster to run the oil 1 pass & as it coming out the juicer it goes through a 5 micron bag filter & then I pump it through a 10 micron spin on furnace oil filter( their cheap) before putting it in my tank. Works well & filters last quite a while.


2001 f-350 ext cab 7.3. No VO conversion yet but working on it.

99Serria 2500. Heath PMD isolator. 60 liter poly tank, hotfox, Walbro FBR5, 10 micron spin on filter w/heater hose wrap, 20 plate FPHE, vegtherm mega, 2 3 way hydraforce valves, HOH. ( July -09 cracked block. Truck sold).

 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hello All.......I'm new here as well but I've been running a #2/WVO blend for about a year now in my '03 X 7.3l. I've been mist washing my dirty oil, heating and settling with success so far but slooow. I've been very interested in the CF devise for some time I just could not afford one. This thread has gotten me excited and I've just recently won an Acme 6001 off ebay for $21.61 shipped. I'm hoping it will be here on tomorrow so I can start sealing it on Sunday. Thank You all for all of your R&D on this! Any new pointers or things learned since this thread started? I've read all 18 pages and a lot of info is floating through my head but I have a definite plan in mind. But, has anybody tried Marine-Tex Epoxy Putty? I used this to repair my fiberglass tub one time and it smooths and sands easily and is water tight. Just a thought! Todd
 
Location: Central Florida | Registered: 17 June 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Is this thread still alive? If so, I have questions; or should I start a new one?
 
Location: Central Florida | Registered: 17 June 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I have been playing w/ my ACME juicer and I am not having complete success. I sealed my basket w/ JB Weld inside and out. I smoothed it with a scraper the best I could and she spins up just fine and seems balance. I filled it w/ water and not leaks after a couple of hours. First I ran it w/out holes and heavy vibration; so I drilled 4 holes about half way on the lip. This fixed the balancing issue. Next figuring out how/where to place it to gravity feed hot oil and catch the oil from the juicer. So I rigged up a little platform.(I'm also posting pics.....)I noticed in playing w/ it sometimes it tries to twist (I remember reading that also) so on my platform I placed 4 small pieces of wood to kind of lock it in place. It ran well, but seemed to vibrate to much; so I removed two of the pieces and this worked much better. It seems to have very little vibration. I heated up my oil around 160deg. and started to send it to the juicer at a very slow rate(one cube in about 1.5hrs)I figured slower would be better in the beginning. After I filled the cube, I hot pan tested it and it failed miserably as if no dewatering had taken place. No splattering, just tons of bubbles as when I first get my oil. I opened up the juicer and as you can see very little sludge and oil in the basket! The oil I get has very little sludge/crap in it and I screen filter it from my trailer to the barrel. I'm hoping my pics will post as I have never done this before on here! After reading this and seeing my pics; does anybody have an suggestions? Thank You for reading/looking as I am at a loss here! Todd

Image34-compressed.jpg (34 KB, 13 downloads)
 
Location: Central Florida | Registered: 17 June 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Another pic

Image38-compressed.jpg (24 KB, 13 downloads)
 
Location: Central Florida | Registered: 17 June 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Pic showing holes drilled

Image39-compressed.jpg (34 KB, 10 downloads)
 
Location: Central Florida | Registered: 17 June 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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How well did you clean up the water you put in the Juicer beofre running oil in it? Did you HPT the oil before running it throught the Juicer? Just wondering if there was alot of water in your oil before processing. I have had batches that had alot of water in them & had to heat & run multiple passes before passing the HPT. But they all eventually passed. Sounds like your running it slow enough. If your oil is filtered well before processing you probably won't see much buildup after only 1 cubie.


2001 f-350 ext cab 7.3. No VO conversion yet but working on it.

99Serria 2500. Heath PMD isolator. 60 liter poly tank, hotfox, Walbro FBR5, 10 micron spin on filter w/heater hose wrap, 20 plate FPHE, vegtherm mega, 2 3 way hydraforce valves, HOH. ( July -09 cracked block. Truck sold).

 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Thank You for replying! Well after water testing the bowl it I tried a real small batch; but I was adding the oil by hand while the juicer was sitting on an outdoor table. I was pouring the oil too fast to have really done any good. That was last weekend.....so it has sat for a week until today's test run; I would say all the water I added is gone by now. The oil I collect will fail a HPT test immediately and I would say this first pass didn't show much difference in the tons of bubbles in a hot pan. The sad thing is this 50gal batch of oil has already been heated twice to over 200deg, settled and bottom 5gal drained off before trying it in the juicer and I'm still getting tons of bubbles! Unfortunately I'm on empty and I need this oil.....so I'm planning on cooking this oil for about 10hrs tomorrow w/ the lid partially off; cool overnight (I will HPT again before fill up) and run it through my water/block filter as well and fill up Tuesday am. I think instead of feeding of my 55gal drum I need to get a smaller pot I can heat the oil on my grill's burner and then feed that into the juicer and run it a couple of passes and see if that makes any difference!
 
Location: Central Florida | Registered: 17 June 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I heat my oil in a metal stock pot on a propane camp stove. I made a stand for the juicer in my shop approx. 3 feet from the floor. Above the juicer I made another stand & have a 5 gallon plastic water camping water container. I cut the bottom of the water contaniner off, turned it upside down & put it in the stand, modified the spout so I could put a valve with a shut off on it & ran a short piece of 3/8 rubber fuel line down into the juicer. I pour the oil into the contaniner after heating it & gravity feed into the juicer. The valve allows me to control the flow to where I want it. Once the oil comes out of the juicer I have a 5 micron bag filter hanging below it & then into another clean 5 gallon bucket. Then I pump the oil through a 10 micron furnace oil filter for the final polishing step. It works pretty good but I want to improve on it when I get time.

One question. Are you sure you drained enough off the bottom of your 50 gallon batch to get to the good stuff? That may have been your problem. Just grasping at straws here.

You've already heated this oil twice & now your going to heat it again? I'm assuming your heating with some kind of electric element & I'm wondering what the final cost is going to be to process this oil & if you would be better off letting this oil settle for a couple weeks & buy diesel for now. Just something to think about.

Good luck.


2001 f-350 ext cab 7.3. No VO conversion yet but working on it.

99Serria 2500. Heath PMD isolator. 60 liter poly tank, hotfox, Walbro FBR5, 10 micron spin on filter w/heater hose wrap, 20 plate FPHE, vegtherm mega, 2 3 way hydraforce valves, HOH. ( July -09 cracked block. Truck sold).

 
Location: Nova Scotia. | Registered: 26 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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