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Want to convert to SVO single tank
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pardon my last thread cause im new to this site. but anyways...
I have a 1979 Mercedes 240D and I want to run a single tank SVO system in the car. What do I need to do this. Can I run SVO through it now as long as it is clean? What is the best conversion kit? which is the best value?


Jaryd Vartanian
 
Location: Bradenton FL | Registered: April 23, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I want to run a single tank SVO system in the car.

for how long?



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Lets see I have been running single tank in a 300cd, a 300tdt,a 300sd and a 300sd 116. All told a little over 100,000 miles between the cars. My wife drives the 126 and before that she used the 300cd and then the 300tdt for a short time. We are in so fl so we really do not see bad weather. The only thing I have ever done is change the little filters every 1000 miles and the primary large one every 3000 miles. My wife will tell me that it is time.to change and I go out and do it. When I don't I will usually have to do it on the side of the road at night or in the rain. I buy the cheapest ones I can find. Right now they ar about 3.15 apirce with shipping. I have had valves adjusted front end work done, brakes and all sort of stuff to keep them on the road. The most expensive one cost me 1,500 at auction. I just sold the wagon for what I paid for 6 years ago with 436,000 and have not heard back from the people yet. I will admit to buying diesel when we are on a trip but I do not see where the use of wvo has caused me any ewxcessive grief. I read all of the blogs from Dana telling me that my engine will seize and stop running and I am still waiting. So I guess what I am saying is that if you invest less than 1,500.00 in a car and you burn really free wvo in it you can not go wrong. I have close to 1,000 gallons in my two houses and my biggest complaint is that as I get older the damn fuel gets heavier and I wish my sources would dry up so that I could tell my wife she has to go to a gas station and pump.
 
Location: So Fl and North FL | Registered: March 27, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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John Galt: excellent screen name. but anyways, I would like to run SVO in the car for as long as it will run. It has 114000 on it now so I figure It has a long time ahead of it. I guess my biggest question is what do I have to do to run a single tank SVO system.

cur.bill: When you say you run single tank, what do you mean? Do you have any sort of conversion kit on the car or do you just filter and go? I also live in FL near sarasota. Ive also heard of additives that thin the fuel so you dont have to have the conversion kit to flush the lines. I guess I am just looking for answers.


Jaryd Vartanian
 
Location: Bradenton FL | Registered: April 23, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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also the car cost me $1600


Jaryd Vartanian
 
Location: Bradenton FL | Registered: April 23, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If you don't operate in temperatures below 40°F then cur.bill's example should work for you too. The most important factor is DRY VO.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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so since my last post I have done some research and I have only one other question. It seems like living in FL is ideal for a single tank because of the year round warm temps (those 25-30 days where it is below 40 I will have to spring for diesel). With that in mind, my average trip is about...20 miles at most through city. Is this going to destroy my engine? Am I better off going with dual tank?


Jaryd Vartanian
 
Location: Bradenton FL | Registered: April 23, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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It's actually quite simple. If you get exhaust smoke on start-up then harmful engine deposits are forming. If you do not get any smoke then it's probably OK.

At temperatures below 40°F cut the VO with 10% to 30% diesel



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have run single tank cold veg blends during warm weather for the last 7-8 years with no problems in my 92 Dodge Cummins. The veg or blend should not cause harm to the basic mechanical components of the engine but it may cause you to replace fuel injectors or the fuel injection pump in a bit less time than if you were running on straight diesel, the problem is so small that it is difficult to tell if the veg was the problem or not. In the over 100,000 miles that I have run at least a 50/50 blend of clean dry veg and diesel (usually more like 80% veg 20% diesel, or 80% veg 10% diesel 10% unledded gasoline) I have replaced one set of injetors and am still running on the original injection pump, this is likely no worse than if I had been running straight diesel all along.

Most older diesel engines can run a 50/50 blend at least in warm weather, start there and up the amount of veg in the blend til you have some sort of indication, like slow ideling when cold, or fuel starvation surging at highway speed, etc, then drop the blend back a bit and you will still save a bunch on fuel costs. Cold startups will show thick fuel problems before anything else (A bit of smoke at startup is pretty normal and it has not caused me any problem), if you have to crank the engine way more than with diesel the blend is a bit high in veg. It is normal to possibly take a bit more cranking burning veg, some folks run the glow plugs for a second cycle before cranking.

The only mod I did to to my vehicle were larger fuel lines to allow the thicker fuel to flow easier during cool weather, didn't even do that for the first 4 years, the truck was full factory stock. I stopped running cold veg blends when the temps got down around freezing due to clogging fuel filters with solidifying hydrogenated veg and animal fats, not likely to be a problem in most of Florida. I added a heated fuel system two winters ago and now start on diesel til warm then switch to a 90% veg 5% dsl 5% RUG blend all year long (once the truck is warmed up I start and run only on the blend), I believe the diesel and RUG promote improved ignition of the veg so no injection pump timing adjustment has been needed.

This links to a long running discussion of the mods to the vehicle and many tests of all sorts of fuel blends.


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92 dodge cummins with over 260,000 miles. Running an unheated 50% diesel/50% WVO blend for about the last 75,000 miles when temps above 50 deg f, no modifications or heating except the addition of a throw-away in-line fuel filter (removed during cold weather).
As of 8-01-05 I have been testing a 75% WVO/15% gasahol (90% RUG/10% ethanol)/10% diesel blend. Works fine down to about 65 f then starts rough. Runs ok once engine warms up. Back to a 50/50 diesel blend sence 9-15-05, just to cool now. -- 11-01-05 Modified stock fuel tank internal fuel pickup to have I.D. of 3/8 inch, this eliminated cold start slow idle and bogg on acceleration. Now adding 1 ounce each of acetone and pure gum spirits of turpentine to each 5 gallons of any blend, seems to help keep the fats in solution to a lower temperature --Heated 2nd tank fuel system installed january 2010, now running on a heated blend of 90% veg/5% diesel/5% RUG (no acetone or turpentine, heat replaced these).
 
Location: fisher,illinois,usa | Registered: June 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Fattywagons has the hotest cheapest system on the market.


126 diesels yahoo groups
83 SD straight exhaust 94 Cobra
Cold air,real cold.Cobra electric radiator fan,Monark nozzles,10 psi electric fuel pump.85 amp alternator 12" subs.23 psi boost, 30 micron filter,an 5 micron filter added
2 tank,wvo,boost guage ,line heaters,coolant heater Fattywagons customer. 99 S320 with 75 more hp.
 
Location: Bristol Tennessee | Registered: January 05, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My experience with single tank cold blends is similar to Tim's. The mix I use is shown in the sig line below. I've added a FPHE between the fuel feed pump and the fuel filter, with plug-in preheating for the engine block, injectors, and FPHE. I run VO based fuel blends to 30 below. To operate without problems below 40°F cold filtering to remove the PHO and fats is essential.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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There are no mods on any of the mercedes. I do from time to time mix diesel some rug, some cetane enhancer. I have tried acetone and wound up with a plastic measuring glass that melted on me. My wvo is right from the fryer to the cube. I have done a pan test to see if the oil has water and all that did was burn my skin from the spattering. I have tipped the cook at the restaurant and every christmas I give out gift cards to Wally world to all people who mite have a hand in transfering the oil into the cubes. I have yet to have a gril brick show up in my oil. The restaurants have a render barrel out back and I make sure that the people who dump the oil put some into the barrel so that they continue to pick up the leftovers from cleaning. I tried an additional filter with a metal cleanable insert. Without heat that plugged up quicker than the little filters. I have in my stockpile a bunch of fattywagons heat strips. One of these days I will hook it up. At 4.19 for diesel at the station I will have to continue burning wvo naked.
 
Location: So Fl and North FL | Registered: March 27, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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If I forget to flush my two tank system it is hard to start in the morning. If you run a single tank it will be hard to start every morning. I installed fattywagon injector line heaters on my wifes Jeep Liberty and think that would be a good idea for a single tank system. More than likely you will clog the screen in the factory fuel tank and you will have to pull that out and clean it. Make sure you filter really good. Fattywagon kit might be a good idea. Bill is much further south than you so your winter will be longer and colder than his or his wife's.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: maddasher,


Robert
In Fort Lauderdale running a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 2 veg tanks HOH 2 upgraded greasecar vavles 3/8 fuel line 5/8 heater line HOH Hose wrapped filter. Injector Line heater on the Common Rail. 2nd car 2005 Mercedes CDI, Raw Power fuel pump, 36 gallon veg tank in trunk coolant heated HOH, rubber hose wrapped fuel filter, FPHE, 3 greasecar valves, Common rail line heater.
 
Location: Ft Lauderdale, FL | Registered: June 01, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by cur.bill:
There are no mods on any of the mercedes. I do from time to time mix diesel some rug, some cetane enhancer. I have tried acetone and wound up with a plastic measuring glass that melted on me. My wvo is right from the fryer to the cube. I have done a pan test to see if the oil has water and all that did was burn my skin from the spattering. I have tipped the cook at the restaurant and every christmas I give out gift cards to Wally world to all people who mite have a hand in transfering the oil into the cubes. I have yet to have a gril brick show up in my oil. The restaurants have a render barrel out back and I make sure that the people who dump the oil put some into the barrel so that they continue to pick up the leftovers from cleaning. I tried an additional filter with a metal cleanable insert. Without heat that plugged up quicker than the little filters. I have in my stockpile a bunch of fattywagons heat strips. One of these days I will hook it up. At 4.19 for diesel at the station I will have to continue burning wvo naked.
It sounds like you need to de-water your oil. You will damage your injectors if you don't. I get oil "straight from the fryer" as well, and it regularly fails a hot pan test. But I make bio, so I can tolerate a bit of water.
 
Location: Colorado | Registered: March 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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So im pretty much set on buying the fatty wagons conversion kit, from what I have been reading that is the best way to run 100% VO on a single tank for a good price. It says on their site that they have a helpline, is it any good? I am not exactly a mechanic but I have been able to do some pretty basic repairs without a problem. I have 3 questions though.
1. I checked the car for blow-by, the engine block resembles a locomotive (i.e. there is a lot of blow by). I know this means that something in the pistons are worn, how much will this cost to fix? Is it something I could do myself?
2.can someone link me to the page with all the terminology? I do not know what FPHE means. I know that a pan test is to see how much water is in your oil, how does that work?
3. what is the best way to filter/dewater WVO?


Jaryd Vartanian
 
Location: Bradenton FL | Registered: April 23, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I do NOT recommend using any VO fuel in an engine with noticeable blow-by. It will quickly accumulate VO in the crankcase, which will polymerize, clog oil passages and destroy the bearings. VO fuels should only be used in engines with good compression.

Flat Plate Heat Exchanger

Lots of information on dewatering and testing for water content here:
http://www.make-biodiesel.org/...for-water-in-vo.html
http://make-biodiesel.org/Rick...upflow-settling.html
and here
http://www.burnveg.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=5



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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There is blowby by pistons(smells like diesel),and worn vacum pump(smells like hot oil),and finally blowby from valves.The valve an head can be rebuilt,a vacum pump be replaced.But to rebuild a engine is alot harder with a diesel.Special tools need to remove piston liners.Cheaper to hunt a lower mileage engine.
or just change oil at 2000 miles.When my valves are adjusted I have no blowby with 335000 miles


126 diesels yahoo groups
83 SD straight exhaust 94 Cobra
Cold air,real cold.Cobra electric radiator fan,Monark nozzles,10 psi electric fuel pump.85 amp alternator 12" subs.23 psi boost, 30 micron filter,an 5 micron filter added
2 tank,wvo,boost guage ,line heaters,coolant heater Fattywagons customer. 99 S320 with 75 more hp.
 
Location: Bristol Tennessee | Registered: January 05, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Ok I have a question to add to this. I talked to fatty wagons, and was inquiring about heating my stock tank in my 190D with a bucket blanket for heating gear oils and such, and they said not to do this becaue of polymerization? Any one explain this for me? I live in North Florida where it's below 40 aybe 2 months in the year.


It only hurts until it quits
 
Location: Tallahassee,Fl  | Registered: September 16, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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