I'm new to this forum and I'm considering buying an '80-'85 Mercedes 300D Turbodiesel and converting it to to run off WVO. I've seen lots of people using the two tank system and I really don't want to add an auxillary tank to the trunk or where the spare tire goes.
I test drove a 1983 Mercedes 300D Turbodiesel over the summer and the guy who was trying to sell it to me filled it up with his own WVO as fuel. I checked the trunk and it had not aux fuel tank and the spare tire was in the spare tire compartment. Basically I think he poured the WVO directly into the fuel tank. As far as I know the car was not modded.
I live in the Southern California area where it doesn't get that cold in the winter, although there are some mornings that dip down to the high 30's to mid 40's early in the morning. I was wondering if using a one tank system without a heating element would be okay for WVO to be put in the main fuel tank. What are you're suggestions for the one tank system? Would I be better off with the two tank?
Welcome to the Greaser world! There are many single tankers in So CA. I think there are at least a half a doz in our Greater San Diego Greser Club (94 on our membership forum list) but the majority are two tankers. The low winter temps in So. CA dips into the 40's and single tankers do have a harder time starting up, but as the engine temp reaches the operating temp, the engine might struggle a little. The other problem is the rings coking. Short trips (minutes) might not be good for the rings as longer duration trips (hours). I have experienced the ring coking in my '80 MB 300D that lead to an in-car ring job ($500 in parts and my and a friend's labor).
If you decide to go with a one tank, I'd suggest a well heated system: 16 plate heat exchanger (FPHE), heated VO fuel filter, MB aux water pump, an lastly an in-tank heat exchanger (optional), change the thermostat from the 80C to an 82C. Another consideration for a one tank system: get all the FAT out of the VO when cleaning the WVO. The fats will clog the VO filter quite quickly. Example: A GSDG club member had purchased an '83 MB 300TD (wife's car), single tanker. He cleaned the WVO with an heated Upflow system. Wife drove the car to work in San Diego (30 miles). In a very short time period, usually three trips, she would get stuck on the side of Interstate 5 during rush hour with a plugged VO filter and call her husband (not good). After many complaints from his wife, I cleaned 4 cubbies of HIS "Upflo heated cleaned" oil through my centrifuge cleaning system. I ran his "cleaned VO" [/COLOR] COLD. After cleaning each cubbie, the CF bowl as cleaned (saved) of debris, mostly FATS. All the fats were collected from all four cubbies, he was surprised to see a cubbie almost v3/4 full. He filled up the TD with the cold filtered and no more complaints from the wifeee. He has purchased a CF and cleans the TD's VO oil cold. He has purchased two other diesel car and truck that he converted and now CF's the oil for them (two tankers) very long intervals before clogging. I have been running of VO since '05 in my '80 MB 300D and just purchased a '87 BM 300DSL on veggie already. Look up the Greater San Diego Greasers and give us a look. I think you will like what you read about us.
I guess my question is why cold through the Centrifuge? I've been running my WVO through at 150 degrees. My '85 300D seems to love it. I have a single tank system. Can you explain why cold is better,please. Also, I have a quantity of high titrating oil.I make biodiesel as well as SVO. I was wondering if I should attempt to burn that as SVO,or am I asking for problems? Another question....I live in North Georgia and even though the Benz runs well in the summer I realize colder weather isn't all that far away. Can I not mix in the car's tank some biodiesel or petro diesel to aid in starting? Maybe 50/50 mix. The car is garage kept.
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo
The fats and PHO have to be removed for reliable single tank systems operating in temperatures below 60°F. That's why I use COLD upflow processing. Heated upflow passes the dissolved/melted fats through the system.
Dragonfly is correct, single tank systems should have a FPHE for reliable long term operation.
At the risk of sounding like a complete moron, please explain PHO and the term "upflow"processing.
Partially Hydrogenated Oil, a common component in many fryer oils.
John....I appreciate the help. Thank you.
With your concern about fat and removing it from WVO, I'd like to relay a problem a fellow Greater San Diego Greaser member had with his wife's one tank MB TD wagon. On quite a few occasions going to or from work, she would get stuck on the side of the freeway and call him! You know how that conversation sounded! The TD had very few miles since changing the filter, maybe 200 miles, when the VO filter would plug. He used a heated up-flos system to clean the WVO. I offered to take 5 cubes of his best up-flow filtered VO and use my open bowl centrifuge to clean it. I ran his oil at room temp., about 70F, at a flow rate of 1/2 gal/minute. When he picked up the oil, the CF had taken out almost 1/2 a cubie of FAT. He drained the up-flow VO and re-filled the TD with 20 gals of CF'd oil. His wife ran the tank almost dry and didn't get stuck with a plugged VO filter. He purchased an open bowl CF system the next week. I run a two tank system and have 15K plus on the same VO filter as still going.
Heated upflow passes the dissolved/melted fats through the system.
That's why I use COLD upflow processing.
Some people can't grasp the difference between cold and heated.
If anyone is interested I have an brand new unused Elsbett kit for the '98 M-B.
1-tank Elsbett VW TDI , 220,000 WVO miles.
and a '92 F-250 with only a FPHE