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FRIGHTENING clanging noise. 1980 300sd w116
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Exclamation FRIGHTENING clanging noise. 1980 300sd w116

I've had the SD for several years now, and I've been running blended WVO/Diesel in one tank longer. I drove my Sd to Az and back on bd, wvo and diesel, no problems year before last. Weekly I proly average well 500 miles driving. The amount of WVO in tank varies based on the weather.

For the first time ever I'm afraid to drive the beast anywhere. Sunday on our way home from church coming up from one of the tunnels I noticed a slight loss of power. figured maybe it was time for a fuel filter. Well once we got off of the high way and stopped at a light I heard a slight sound so I turned off the music and there was this tapping. like a ball pean hammer on a block of metal. I took it real easy the rest of the way home. checked my oil. it was normal. I do all my own maint and repair, even did an engine swap last year on one of these. not a nubee. I've heard this once before and no one was able to tell me what it was or what the cause might be at that time. So now I'm asking you folks.

I live in the middle of nowheres so I gotta have my car. let me know what you think. thanks in advance.

here's a link to a youtube video so you can hear it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abeicUCkJ80


In Christ bro frank
 
Location: suffolk va | Registered: July 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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So I loosened all injector lines one at a time. Injector 3 caused the sound to deepen but not go away. I replaced it any how. no change.

see video here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N--RJp3t_3Q



not liking the sound of this.

whats the next step?

drop the oil pan(s)? gee i get to fix a leak oh joy.

I think I'll go do my home work eat some ice-cream have acid reflux and go to sleep.

get up early with the dew and see what i can do.



thanks.


In Christ bro frank
 
Location: suffolk va | Registered: July 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Based on how reducing the cylinder pressure by reducing the fuel volume injected in one cylinder changed the pitch of the noise...I would be suspicious of a rod or piston bearing on that cylinder being bad.
 
Location: Southern WI, USA | Registered: May 18, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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How do I verify that without pulling the motor? pull oil pan and look for chunks?

I was going to do a valve adjust just cause it was an easy thing to do but Thunderstorms kept me from pulling the valve cover as planned last night. I hope to get it tonight if it doesn't storm again.

Thanks for the input.


In Christ bro frank
 
Location: suffolk va | Registered: July 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have another idea; maybe a bad lifter or cam lobe. Your noise does not seem too far off from this one, which is a bad cam lobe on a VW TDI. But a bad lifter would be the same: one cylinder that is not opening or closing the valve correctly, so that cylinder is missing or the valve slams shut when the fuel fires off, etc.

The 300SD is overhead cam, right? Pull the valve cover, rotate engine by hand looking for weird cam wear or lifter wear. Or even one lifter that sticks, putting a gap between cam and lifter.

If not....then you might have to pull the pan and look for metal shavings or weirdness on whatever you can see of the crank...something not offset correctly, wear marks where there shouldn't be any, etc.
 
Location: Southern WI, USA | Registered: May 18, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Got valve adjustment done. No unusual wear marks , no loose parts.

no change.

going to borrow a stethoscope Sunday.

Pulling oil pan in am to look for bits and pieces.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?...youtube_gdata_player


In Christ bro frank
 
Location: suffolk va | Registered: July 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Pictures say a lot

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...joWfgoh5MtaiodameDUw

There were metal bit's in the pan.

not good.


In Christ bro frank
 
Location: suffolk va | Registered: July 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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There were metal bit's in the pan. some good sized ones and some very fine. felt like grit, shined like metalic flake (Hhmmm wander why ).

I'm guessing the only way to determine what actually broke would be to do major surgery.

I am tempted to drive it till it dies but I have no back up car and live 20 miles from civilization and 45 miles from school. Right now I can't afford to have it die and pay to have it dragged home. That's $!00 bucks towards the fixxin' soooo i go a fixxin'.

I'm getting to old for this.

Thanks every one . I will continue to update till she's on the road again?


In Christ bro frank
 
Location: suffolk va | Registered: July 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I am tempted to drive it till it dies but I have no back up car and live 20 miles from civilization and 45 miles from school. Right now I can't afford to have it die and pay to have it dragged home. That's $100 bucks towards the fixxin' soooo i go a fixxin'.


I did that with my I6 gasser, but I knew when it died the whole thing was being swapped for a 4BT. Don't drive it 'til it dies if you plan to rebuild it: when my I6 died it threw 2 rods through the side of the block in 2 places. SPECTACULAR failure! I could have prevented that by having it towed home once it started overheating badly...but I thought I could limp home 15 miles by letting it cool off every 5 miles...I made it ~7 more miles and it blew.

For the money saved by fixing it yourself, it might pay to buy a cheap back-up car to give you time to do a rebuild. Just something that will run for 6 months, even if its not that comfortable to drive.
 
Location: Southern WI, USA | Registered: May 18, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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After watching the video, the oil pan grit looks like my 4BT did when I got it, which was a bad crank bearing. I would say the magnetic metal is pieces of the crank coming off where there should be a bearing. In mine I did find shavings of bearing: thin ribbons of non-magnetic whatever...brass-mix...I don't know.

Dig in for a repair before you damage the crank beyond an over-sized bearing dimension. Machining the crank to accept an over-sized repair bearing is not cheap, but WAY cheaper than buying a new crank because it can't be machined. My 4bt was RIGHT at the maximum to fit a .040" over bearing; the machining and bearings were about $500, I think. A new crank was more like $900.

I rebuilt just the lower end; I could still see what I though was light cross-hatching on the cylinder walls (they were cleanly polished still, either way, and compression was great: hard to turn over by hand), so I left them alone. All new rod and crank bearings and put it back together.
 
Location: Southern WI, USA | Registered: May 18, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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