I've been using this for a few munths to keep my WVO warm. It starts out as lard - so it's solid if I don't heat it.
It's a Taco 007 pump, a 220 volt heating element running on 110 (forgot the wattage). The big pipe and tee are 1 1/4. Near the electrical box for the heater, you can see the trick adapter I had made for the heater. He faced the top surface of a 1 1/4 X 1 bushing, ran a pipe tap all teh way through to open up the threads, and cut a shallow groove around the element so that an O-ring seals radially between the bushing and the element.
Inside the square box is a water heater element thermostat and hi-limit cut out. The box is welded to the 1 1/4 pipe for heat transfer.
The grey bulbous thing is an expansion tank.
Don't let it freeze. Several parts in the pump seem to not like it, but I took it apart and did some creative metal re-forming, and it doesn't leak - though it was pretty noisy for a while.
What about the use of Copper Lines?
I thought that this was a problem... see post http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/419605551/m/668100677/r/668100677#668100677
1991 Dodge W250 4x4 Cummins 12 valve
Why not put antifreeze in the water loop to avoid the freeze problems?
The issue with copper is that it tends to promote oxidation. It should be avoided if the fuel is going to sit around for any length of time or be exposed to lots of air - either by surface area on the top surface or by recirculation and air exposure.
The thread with the furnace is probably the absolute worst case - it recirculated through air AND through copper. My fuel won't likely sit around very long, and I keep the drums sealed well - so there's less concern about oxidation for my application.
The heat coil could be made of iron pipe just as easily.
I didn't have anti-freeze, and figured I had to keep it turned on to keep the oil thawed anyhow - so I didnt' worry about freezing. I unplugged the extension cord to use something else, and forgot to plug it back in for some time.
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